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About Miek

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  1. More important (IMO) is to make sure there are no snots or imperfections between the PIR and the block work creating a void which would allow convective heat loss up through the wall to the roof. The boards need to be tight on to the blocks which is where mineral wool batts have an advantage as they have some give.
  2. Not usual for a heating dominated climate like the UK. In a cooling dominated climate you might want an external VCL to prevent external moisture in the hot humid environment condensing within your walls. I can't see the reason for it in the UK. Happy to be corrected though.
  3. Good point, could be done with a hand file in a vice if you don't have a lathe.
  4. Miek

    Timber cladding, recommendations

    That picture shows some really well thought out details. Looks expensive. No knots in sight, hidden fixings, mitred corners, etc... There isn't one. Ring shanks hold like screws, amazing fixings.
  5. Why use copper? Washing machine hoses are 3/4 bsp female so just get a... 25mm 3/4bsp adapter
  6. One of the many troubles with small wind is the cost of the towers. Its just crazy expensive to get up into the wind economically. Hence a lot of provens for example are on 6m towers, which is hopeless, you want to be at least quadruple that IMO, preferably more. Let's not even talk about the blades flying off yet..
  7. I like to see a £40k+ bill to the nearest penny, lol
  8. Miek

    Wood drill bits - which are best ?

    What size holes? Through 50mm studs? Hole saws on wood are bit bit of a ball ache IMO. OK on thinner material, like Steico Web.
  9. Now all we need is for the government to have a forward thinking energy policy...
  10. Thanks folks A 12v relay sounds a simple solution, I like that.
  11. I think I get what you mean.. House 1 is used to power the boiler and pump as normal. House 2 uses its call for heat to switch a relay on house 1 pump and boiler wiring. So the relay provides electrical isolation of the two systems. Correct? Or, a wireless system such that either house 1 or 2 call for heat triggers the pump and boiler ON.
  12. OK, that sounds simple enough for me to do. If all four valves are open and asking for heat, will it be necessary to balance the circuits in some way? Obviously pipework will have different resistance to flow. Maybe a non issue... Re : oil usage. That's for then to decide thankfully, I don't think metering the oil is workable or worthwhile. Seperating the wiring would be sensible, but the pump and boiler are usually fed from the wiring panel, so how do I separate the two if there are 2 wiring panel on the new system?
  13. Hi Plumbers. I have a situation with 2 separate dwellings (one house split in two) one of which has a Y plan heating system running of an oil fired system boiler. I would like to use this boiler to run both dwellings if possible, so that means 2 DHW tanks, and 2 CH circuits. What's the best approach? The least complex the better as the house is inhabited by elderly technophobes. Thanks in advance Mike
  14. Miek

    Fire sprinkler systems

    One issue I believe is that the water pressure is based on the minimum guaranteed by your water company, not the static pressure measured at the premesis, so worth asking them if it is high enough to fulfill the standard. I'm on a long run 400m from my meter so I think a tank and pump system will be needed, IIRC the tank will need to be over 1000l. I'm hoping this can be underground somewhere and not in the house.
  15. Miek

    Single screw brand for a whole build.

    These are great screw for flooring, apart from the price. They really 'pull' the chipboard down tight and countersink nicely, used with glue you won't have any squeaks at all. Torx drive I'd say is the least likely to slip in the head of the screw (haven't tried square drive) but I personally just use pozi due to price, and it helps that they are more universal IMO