Miek

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About Miek

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  1. Did you compact the ground before concreting? Over enthusiastic whacking can create a lot of outward pressure on the internal leaf, depending on soil type. Possibly the internal ground pressure pushed the wall out or cracked the block bond, and the oversite was the final bit of pressure and pushed the wall over. Just a thought. Weak mix cavity fill below DPM is typical and it is done in order to resist the soil pressure on the cavity. Mike
  2. WTE sell the gauge for £17. I've got one but not used it yet.
  3. To discharge to a ditch you need to contact NRW (in Wales) or the environment agency in your country, not sure who that is in England or Scotland. They grant permission if you can fulfill the requirements.
  4. I've got the dewalt laser and detector, cost about 180 or so. Great tool. use a 30m class 1 steel tape for squaring. Detector is flakey when it's cold in or in direct sunlight. Really useful for drain run fall and foundation layout.
  5. Depends how deep your going 😉 I'd hire a machine .
  6. I would use 100mm square box minimum, 4 or 5 mm wall, galvanised and concreted in at in least 1m. A 6' gate is not that big a load but you might prefer the aesthetic of 150 or 200 box. A foot on the box is optional , you could plonk it on a pad stone.
  7. I have a DeWalt laser and detector and I find that the detector doesn't work when it's cold (below about 5 degrees); and in direct sunlight it can be intermittent but that's less of a problem as you can shade the unit to get a result. Great tools for by building a house though!
  8. It's really difficult to design an economical & reliable small turbine, really really difficult. Solar just wins the race. PV has dropped in price so much it's quite astounding. I remember when BP PV panels were about £5/Watt , PV is now about 20p/Watt!
  9. You can widen the cavity to get passive standards very easily. A few folk on here building 300mm cavities, myself included.
  10. Beads could also potentially settle over time ( I know they are coated in PVA or something to help them bond). Personally I feel batts are a more reliable method, and I'm doing a 300 cavity, but it's certainly attractive to simply blow in beads at the end and not faff around with batts.
  11. Polytunnel plastic could work, it's mega strong but it needs to be pulled taught over a wooden frame and held in place with nailed or screwed battens which in itself is a fair bit of work compared to sawing down a sheet of ply or OSB.
  12. I don't suppose you have a pic you could post? I want do bury my vortex pump unit too so keen to others solutions before I freestyle it.
  13. What's the problem with doing as recommended in part H? I would ask building control about deviations from part H. Might be ok as part H isn't actually the regs, just an approved guide. I've just fitted a Vortex STP and when I did the calcs for the drainage field I realised it was going to cost more than the STP. Luckily I can discharge to a nearby water course, though you need approval from the environment agency to do this, or NRW in my case
  14. That pic is a Stihl shredder blade and will cut most things, but I use it on a 45cc motor , I don't think it will be very useful on a cordless tool.
  15. What kind of vegetation are you hoping to cut? Brambles need a curved blade so you can push the tool down on them from above. Straight blades only work in the horizontal but are good for lower vegetation.