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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/23/22 in all areas

  1. I think there is more chance of a loose brick dropping on your head and killing you than catching Legionnaires
    2 points
  2. @Ricky65 The only answer is chemical analyses of the drinking water. I'd call the Local Water Company today, tell them about the Police raid and your health issue, and how this is as a result of the actions of the criminals involved. Inform the Water Company, the flats water system has been tampered with, and you have tainted water issues, and possible cross contamination from illegal chemicals being used in the production of cannabis. If they do nothing, contact the Drinking water inspectorate, link here https://www.gov.uk/check-drinking-water-quality
    2 points
  3. Since you are specifically asking about an insulated raft, rather than a traditional raft, it's not entirely fair to compare costs to strip foundations, unless your going to spend extra on the strip foundations to get their performance up to the same level as an insulated raft. An insulated raft allows you to easily remove all cold bridges at the floor wall joint and with some careful design, achieve the same at the door thresholds. If you are paying for removal of spoil, I'd also say they are actually cost competitive against other highly insulated floor options. If you are on flat ground then the an insulated raft is a shallow dig. A 0.11 U Value is achieved with around 300mm of EPS insulation. UFH can be set directly in the raft and a screed is not necessary, so another saving there. All in all materials costs are actually lower than strip foundations + block and beam + insulation + screed for the same U value, but, an insulated raft needs a structural engineer's costs adding to them to get them through building control. For all their benefits they remain a niche product. I have an insulated raft from Advanced Foundation Technologies Ltd. and wouldn't consider doing foundations any other way on my next self-build.
    2 points
  4. Hi, I've been fiddling around with PVGIS daily data vs. roof orientation - actually the objective was to get an idea of battery sizing. This is for East Suffolk, 30 degree roof pitch. I think I've figured out that ... if you have the option ... that south facing panels really are better than split East/West panels. Maybe that's not a surprise, but I was assuming/hoping that splitting East/West would be very handy in order to flatten and widen the output curve - which would provide more useful power. Well it looks like it does a little bit in summer, but in spring and autumn and winter it seems to not help at all. See below: Alan
    1 point
  5. I've been gone for some time, around 9 weeks. I'd had a stroke back in August whilst at our caravan, getting us ready to move in 2 weeks later. For the technical people (everyone on here!) I had a dissect of the artery in my cerebellum. Artery opened for a few seconds, which caused a clot and then caused a stroke. The change was instant and I spent 5 weeks in hospital, however home now (well was home for a week now in the caravan, which im very happy about). Its affected me physically on my right side. 9 weeks I couldn't walk, but now I can so very happy. It's just one of those things, I wasn't doing too much (even though I was doing a lot) sometimes it can be caused by trauma, but well never know the answer to that. I was only 39 (now 40!) , fit and healthy, as above its just one of those things. I'll make a full recovery, and no more likely to have a dissect than others are which is low so all good. I've been positive throughout and intend to be, just another hurdle which is no problem.
    1 point
  6. That’s so right, very sorry to hear about your hubby but sounds like he will make progress, fingers crossed eh! We never know what’s round the corner in life despite the best laid plans. 🤞
    1 point
  7. I think so, yes, such that the ground is damp around the pipes rather than dry. (limiting factor on what can be taken from them) Possibly warm water greywater instead, such that the heat pinched from the ground for hot water is returned to the ground.
    1 point
  8. Had a hellish night on Friday, my hubby collapsed in the bathroom and was blue lighted to hospital with a suspected stroke, he’s been moved to a different hospital now and it’s apparently what they call an AVM , he has a weak left side although today there was improvement of his left arm , tomorrow he’s having a cerebral angiogram to see what’s what and probably surgery, this comes 3 weeks after me finding out my brother has incurable cancer, life’s a bitch!
    1 point
  9. Yes we do But never go metal to metal One reason is strength But the main reason is sound Even the ceiling and wall track should be cut short at the corners 20 mil for single board 40 for double
    1 point
  10. Only 1M between main units and island will be too little if either has a dishwasher with a pull down door, you will curse as you empty it, you cannot get past the door to put stuff away.
    1 point
  11. 15mm everywhere . That’s means you purchase one lot of pipe and fittings . Easier if it’s all one size and (expletive deleted) anyone else who says different. I’ve built an entire house on 15mm ( as advised on this forum ) so why change . THERE ! I’m right again .
    1 point
  12. Mine is timed fir daytime usage but unsure I am doing harm this way, found this https://heatpumps.co.uk/2013/08/13/stand-by-power-and-air-source-heat-pumps/
    1 point
  13. Thanks again for the link to.
    1 point
  14. Fence posts done over the weekend! We got them from Kedel with a pointed end and round flat top 1.5m in length and almost half of them buried with sheer force knocking them in. I ended up driving to them to check out their products and discussing exactly what I wanted and they drilled them 20mm hole for the rope (extra cost) then I got a man and van a couple of weeks later to pick them up (their delivery fee is a rip off). They were about £13 each including the drilled hole. Got some rope from Facebook (someone bought 32m from Rope Services) and we got it very cheap. It's about 30 metres in length. Ignore the paving as we will be redoing it. Had to lay some turf where I got up some of the paving flags. . VID_20221023_172932.mp4 VID_20221023_171947.mp4
    1 point
  15. I hate these. I have a suspended timber floor and under one of the rads on the outside wall I have tees fitted to the flow and return, these are then taken to 2 isolating valves with another tee in the middle with this going outside. no need for hoses etc when draining down. my hatch is next to the radiator so makes everything easy.
    1 point
  16. Don’t forget to strap the life out of that rest bend.
    1 point
  17. The lowest position possible IMO , insert a “T” and the above fitting into the bottom of the “T”, you can remove the whole plug thing to release any sludge.
    1 point
  18. This isn't the case. You can use a 3-phase hybrid inverter with a single battery, or a mains-coupled battery on just 1 battery. With the correct inverter (this may be bit more expensive, agree) it will export on L1 (from battery) to compensate for loads on L2 and L3. You don't have to. Could have house run on single phase and only use 3-phase for PV and battery chargers.
    1 point
  19. Crumbs - that sounds awful. Usually the two dwellings, yours and theirs, have separate water and electric systems but this does not sound to be the case. You probably need to get it checked by your water and electricity suppliers.
    1 point
  20. May I use the opportunity to ask help on a question I have? I'm struggling to get the LG to heat up to the desired temperature. Both air and water. We use our LG in combination with low temperature radiators, so no underfloor heating here. From the earlier posts in this topic, I understand there is a cohesion between the parameters (1) "Outdoor temp. for auto mode", (2) "Indoor air temp. for auto mode" and (3) "LWT for auto mode". 1: 0 and 19 2: 16 and 22 3: 30 and 45 I think it works in a way that if the outdoor temp (1) is 0 water temp (3) should reach 45 the outdoor temp (1) is 19 water temp (3) is restricted to 30 If this is correct (and I really don't know, as the LG manual doesn't enlighten anything on this matter), why does LG stop heating at a water temp of 32 max?? And this was during some cold night already of 3 degrees. And how is Indoor air temp. for auto mode (2) related to this all?
    1 point
  21. It depends on the makeup of the glulam - you can order it in various different species of timber, including oak, many of which are perfectly fine and hardy outdoors. Have a chat with Buckland Timber. Their page on species: https://www.bucklandtimber.co.uk/timber-species/ I received an email recently where they were offering good prices on North American Douglas Fir glulam beams.
    1 point
  22. You can get treated glulams, might be worth looking into.. Larch heartwood is a very durable timber above ground , but you might need to get it cut by a sawmill to the sizes you want.
    1 point
  23. Thought I'd add some photo's now that job's just about jobbed
    1 point
  24. Re steel. Just got a price from the company that are doing our gates and ballustrading, £1200 for a 7m long, 2m deep brise soleil with five supporting posts. Installed. Mix of 50x50mm box and 50x200mm, galvanised and powedercoated. Coming out cheaper than timber, and 4x cheaper than alu. Definitely worth pricing that option.
    1 point
  25. Let me know if any of this needs clarification. For a load-bearing slab we consider the slab, acting alone and supporting only the floor loading. The concrete sits on stone , on ground and the floor loads therefore act directly on the ground, (spread somewhat by the thickness, if the loads are uneven) The much heavier walls sit on footings in the ground, usually 1m or deeper, and not on the slabs. Reinforcement of the slab is generally only to control shrinkage cracking, and is a steel mesh, easily laid. Footings are usually mass concrete, a lo-tech process Rafts are structural slabs. The concrete is thicker and they have 2 layers of steel, top and bottom, to prevent bending and make the slab work like a big beam. Cost are higher because the concrete is thicker and the steel is heavier gauge as well as being in 2 layers. It may also require additional skill. The walls are supported on edge and cross beams made as deepenings of the slab, heavily reinforced and fully linked to the slab. These support the walls but also spread this heavy load over a wider area of ground, using the slab area. So a simple load-bearing slab sits on good ground. If a book-case wouldn't sink into the ground, then neither will it when there is concrete on top. Walls are very much heavier and so need strong ground. If the ground is not strong enough to support the walls then a raft may resolve the issue by spreading the load over a bigger area, and allow construction. Cost of slab and footings approximately double, perhaps more.
    1 point
  26. Just the other side of the wall, I ran the string through a section of hollow tent pole drilled through the wall, I even stained the string black to match. No wires, no batteries, nothing to go wrong (except the string breaking 🤣) remember I hate “tech”.
    1 point
  27. It faces North so no UV damage, yes a porch with outer door (air lock). Local timber company made all my windows and doors, also the oak conservatory. Just outside Bude, Devon. I don’t do “tech” and love my doorbell. (Ebay). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115205937618?hash well done on getting your PP 👍
    1 point
  28. No, particularly for HOT pipe runs, I strive to get the shortest run when out of sight for quickest delivery of hot water.
    1 point
  29. For any I insulated pipes yes, if using on insulated pipes you’ll need Talon clips plus Talon spacers or the pipe won’t be far enough from the mounting surface to allow for the insulation.
    1 point
  30. If youre looking to size a battery then the battery will give you a more useable spread of energy and I would guess youd want your array to generate the max it can by being south facing. As I understand things you only want to split the array to give a longer spread of energy if you dont have a battery or if youve oversized your array.
    1 point
  31. Thanks all. Crucially I should have added 'ago' to the walking bit (I've been walking alone for the last 4 weeks). Onwards and upwards
    1 point
  32. It occurs to me boaters might see posts as convenient things to tie up to.
    1 point
  33. Glad this topic is in the Plumbing section.
    0 points
  34. I absolutely would for a vented system. Ever since finding a dead bird in dad's attic tank anyway. Chlorine has a finite life and gets used up. A few animal remains and a few days brewing, you've potential issue, not just legionnaires. Unvented, no point at all.
    0 points
  35. Glad to hear your order of priority and the most important point to consider and I won't worry about the size of your penis 😉 (I'm going to regret saying that aren't I?)
    0 points
  36. Was too excited to get filling and pressuring that I missed one or two nuts when tightening up the manifold and pump. 🤣 Was like a scene out of one the old submarine movies spraying water everywhere whilst reaching for the off tap with one hand and the grips with the other. chalk it down to experience...
    0 points
  37. What did the food taste like?
    0 points
  38. Forget rope between the posts. Hang wire between them and a "Danger, electric fence" sign canal side.
    0 points
  39. Mine still looks good when I get home in the dark and don't turn the lights on. My car looks clean as well.
    0 points
  40. Absolutely agree! Reminds me of the story of a lady who had the most beautiful set of expensive lingerie with petticoats, the lot. She kept it in her drawer and just looked at it. Her husband kept asking when she was going to wear it and her reply was that she was saving it for a ‘special occasion’. That occasion never seemed to happen … and then she died suddenly, so never got to enjoy the luxury of her very expensive and very beautiful purchase. He ended up burying her in it. Sad! Wear the lingerie. Use the hob. Don’t save things ‘for best, or special occasions’ as we never know when our time is up! Wanted to hear from anyone who has the Bora and has used it. Does it scratch easily? Either way it’s too late as it’s in and so will we be, just wanted to know really! Thanks for your reply ??
    0 points
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