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markocosic's Achievements

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  1. Shipping them with with sealed enclosures and vent pipes to route outdoors or into sewers would be sensible. Basements where heavier than air explosive mixes can linger are the only very risky spot. I wonder if most ASHPs are insured / insurable? I must confess to never having asked the question of house insurance...
  2. LiFePO4 can still offgas; and that gas is still potentially explosive in a confined space - in the case above it popped all the windows. Nothing on having a gas hob of course; but still preferable outside the house for safety purposes. Along with the pv inverter and other high power / low quality control / difficult to inspect items.
  3. The screw piles are the equivalent of your concrete posts. Bearers sit on top of these. They're only joined above the screw piles where there's no bending moment. They're sistered (more than one in parallel) with joints staggered (alternative scree piles) and were glued/screwed to stop them peeling away from each other sideways. The screws/glue don't carry any load though. The wood mostly sits there by gravity. Screes from the piles into the bottom of the bearers hold them down. Then there are the joists. These sit on top of plastic shims near their ends to elevate them 5 mm above the beaters.A gain they are only joined where sit on the bearers so there's no load on the join. There's a 10 mm gap between them to let the end grain dry; with a short piece (600 mm) glued and screwed to the side. Again this doesn't carry load. Gravity sits them there. The joiners stop them moving relative to each other. A couple of tie downs hold the joists to the bearers in the corners for wind uplift; otherwise the joists and the deck could slide around on the bearers. No meaningful loads are carried in shear. It's all stacked on top of each other for load carrying purposes. Only the tie down straps carry shear. The noggins are screwed because I had screws. If I had a nail gun I'd nail them. In your case I would cut the tops of those posts level, and sit your bearers on top of those on spacers. Hold the bearers down using straps that are bolted through the existing holes on the concrete posts. I wouldn't try to attach the bearers to the sides using bolts in shear. They'll squash the wood then move. Sit the bearers on top of the slabs with spacers. You know how well the slabs are levelled and how stable they are. I'd use the adjustable £2 spacers myself. £1 fixed spacers false economy. Sitting on the wall is probably better than sitting on the slabs of you can. Do you plan to attach to the house itself? If so remember to leave a gap between the ledger board and the wall for drainage. If you're short on height then you could use just hangers off the bearers rather than gravity. Just cover the tops of it all such that water can't run down into the joints.
  4. Directly on slabs - no. Adjustable feetsicles make life easy: https://timberfixings.com/store/Eurotec-Adjustable-Decking-Pedestal-ECO-M-Adjusts-from-35mm-up-to-65mm-p50614257 Or slice up something that doesn't rot with chopsaw and stick a piece of DPC on top if you're being cheap. Timber doesn't sit on paving slabs directly.
  5. Keep it dry. Airflow underneath it. Don't rest it in "waterproof bowls" of supports. Do rest it on a piece of DPC where the supports are porous (e.g. concrete) and ensure that the DPC is 'n' shaped not 'u' shaped. Cut ends to hang in "fresh air" - you support the beams some distance back from the cut edge so that the bit that might be touching water is side grain. Consider something on top of it - especially the cut edge - such as a strip of roofing felt (easier than DPC as sticks in place) again in an 'n' shape to shed water. Other than being kept dry you shouldn't need to do anything with tanalised timber. Here's ours (my wife has since been introduced to the concept of a straight edge) with some leftover acrylic facade paint (got frozen in winter so not much good but very sticky) holding the bitumen down until the deck boards are fitted. Water falling through the gaps in the deck drip-edges off bitumen onto either the floor or another piece of bitumen and then the floor. (noggins make an enormous difference to stiffness; install near the bottom so that they're clear of your deck boards) If you have any posts that are just in compression the threaded feet are excellent for keeping them dry and levelling them. Consider cleaning. How are you going to hose cat / fox piss and shit out from under the deck when they move in? Leaves that blow in under the deck? You might want some 1/2" mesh dug into the ground and fixed to the bottom of the deck edge to keep the wildlife and leaves out.
  6. Thanks both What edge detail did you use at the walls / gables to support the PB there? Am I right in thinking that your battens for the PB are "vertical" John?
  7. How should a warm roof / cathedral ceiling be boarded and plastered? We have: - Stick built timber frame - Roof structure is a 12 metre ridge beam in 3 parts with 2 posts (visible width of ridge beam 245 mm; post width 145 mm) - Rafters are 245 x 45 on 600 mm centres; 12 mm OSB internally for racking; then "45 x 45 mm battens" on 600 mm centres - Each "panel" is effectively 12 metres long / 4 metres tall The design intent for these 45 x 45 mm battens was: - space for cables - space for final 45 mm of insulation - to mount plasterboard to At the minute they're nailed on with a 90 mm nail every 600 mm into the rafters. We'd previously planned timber cladding that could tolerate flex. She thinks that she'd now like plasterboard. How should we board this for (1) ease, (2) to avoid cracking, and (3) to avoid overloading the foundations? (double boarding would the norm here but I'd rather NOT double board this for weight reasons after she swapped a wriggly bitumen / metal roof for a wooden roof) It would be emulsion painted a light colour. There may be uplighting; particularly on the mezzanine where you don't want to be walking into light fittings. My thoughts: - Get boards with recessed edges and run them in landscape so that they're supported on the longest edges / between rafters by the battens where there is the most movement potential - Use floating battens to butt-join the short edges and set all the joints under a rafter so that there shouldn't be too much movement here - Tape and joint it rather than skimming it for ease on such a big area - if taping and jointing it then line up the joints rather than staggering the boards in 'stretcher bond' to make the taping and jointing less visible I could also add metal profiles and fasten to those; or use them as the board joiners. They're fairly readily available. Or indeed remove the 45 x 45 mm timber if metalwork would be better. (though I'd prefer not to!) - Edges...are probably where it will crack...what to do at the eaves / ridge / gables in terms of (a) support and (b) finish? It's easy to add support for one or other or both ceiling and wall. We deliberately did nothing for now on the basis it's easier to add later than to remove what's not needed. They'll be joining to more plasterboard. The side walls on the open end are 3 metres tall. I'd planned to do with single vertical boards and all tape in the recess. The side walls under the mezzanine are 2.5 metres all. All vertical boards again and all tape in the recess. The ceilings under the mezzanine are 3 metres wide. All single boards again joined on the joists. - Posts will be fun. We'd like them to remain as wood. Stop the plasterboard short and mask with a trim piece? Any other neat tricks? This isn't the airtight layer. The sheds have a decent choice available. ~€1.50/m2 for the boggo stuff or ~€3/m2 for knauf moisture resistant; 3 metre lengths available for doing the walls in one length with no butt joints. I'm tempted to https://online.depo-diy.lt/products/6275 https://www.senukai.lt/c/statyba-ir-remontas/izoliacines-medziagos/gipskartonio-ploksciu-montavimo-sistemos/gipskartonio-plokstes/6ys There's a bewildering choice of plasters and fillers available too. What's the difference between EN 13963, type 3B and 4B? https://www-knauf-lt.translate.goog/produktai-ir-sistemos/produktu-a-z/uniflott.html?_x_tr_sl=lt&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=sc https://www-knauf-lt.translate.goog/produktai-ir-sistemos/produktu-a-z/q-filler.html?_x_tr_sl=lt&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=sc The surface preparations are covered here FWIW: http://www.eurogypsum.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/EUROGYPSUMFINSHINGUK.pdf Q3 probably ok given roof pitch of 9:12 (36 degrees ish) - tape and joint and smooth it but don't go so far as to skim the entire thing with a 1mm+ layer because you're going to see the variation in the rafters or lines between boards anyway? What would you do?
  8. Drill it 12 mm and glue in a length of M12 threaded rod...as a permanent dowel?
  9. FWIW it looks like Lithium chemistries can vent an explosive gas mixture rather than just burning:
  10. And when he leaves...in move the birds. Poo. Must build out of pan scourer and razor wire next time. Nature is persistent! On the plus side all is absolutely bone dry under the wooden roof; membrane or otherwise.
  11. Do you think "winter is here; the insects are gone and you can slack off on finishing the cladding?" I learned where the racoons hibernate today when coming to finish the cladding. Bollox. That's our waterproof layer for the roof...and all our external mineral wool insulation they're crafted a home in. Cosy little swine.
  12. How tightly they can control import/export. Newer leccy meters have 1 Wh "energy buckets" that will increment the import or export registers. They need tight control of battery charge/discharge in order not to be constantly importing/exporting and therefore arbitraging in the wrong direction. Many chargers err on the side of "always exporting a bit" in order not to accidentally import. Getting import wrong costs 30p, getting export wrong only 5p for example.
  13. Definitely not indoors! You almost want graded supplies for the house: "Hotel load, non-discretionary/interruptible" (fire alarm, house alarm, etc?) "Hotel load, kinda-discretionary/interruptible" (fridge, sewage system, etc?) "Other load, don't bother trying to shift" Select sockets fed from a dedicated MCB; itself fed via a widget in a discretionary outbuilding or under an awning outside etc.
  14. You may already know this @DamonHD - do these cheapies do an acceptable job of sensing the minimum energy buckets? https://www.earth.org.uk/Enphase-AC-Battery-REVIEW.html Or might they be better connected as an "interruptible" power supply? i.e. You manually pull the incoming mains once the sun goes down to force 100% of load connected to their "Emergency Power System" output over to battery; then manually flip it back on again if the "Emergency Power System" goes down (i.e. battery discharged unexpectedly early)
  15. Are the commercial solutions now economic given the increase in marginal unit rates / decrease in costs as shenzhen grade kit comes on the market? £800 AC coupled inverter / £800 for 6000 cycles @ 2 kWh / 1 kW(p) https://midsummerwholesale.co.uk/buy/sofar-storage/sofar-me3000sp https://midsummerwholesale.co.uk/buy/sofar-storage/sofar-me3000sp-us2000-type-c-kits Charge @ average 250 W for 8 hours; discharge @ average 125 W for 16 hours; bank £0.50 / day through "screw displacing gas fired generation; play the broken electricity market using batteries and PV instead" game? £18/yr. Will it last 10 years? 15 years? Perhaps; if the peak charge / discharge rates are limited? Is it Depth of Discharge or the cycle count or the charge/discharge rates that kill LFP?
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