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I would dig a 450 wide trench down the side of the existing cock up, mango off 200mm from the top of the cock up footing, then resin in 20 odd 16mm studs sticking out from cock up footing, then pour new concrete coming up to original level so it covers cock up footing and looks like just a wide strip, no join visible. Dont skrimp on the depth go full depth or further.

Can you clarify - Did she already pay the timber frame company for the drawings? If so then you should own them, if not then they need to be paid for their work. Considering what they are saying I suspect not. I am appalled at comments suggesting that it's hard luck on the timber frame company and just ignore them. I hope other people don't do work and then not get paid for it and get told that it's just hard luck.

Yes, just costs a lot to get it dry again. There is, at a fundamental level, no difference between a new brick and an old brick, or a new stone and an old stone, or concrete. Really just where they are placed and what the environment around them is. Here is what the environment is like around my house. Gets close to saturation i.e. RH=1, but not quite (basically means very few foggy days this year) Got to within 0.5°C. This basically means that there is, in an unoccupied building, little risk of condensation. Increase the internal temperature and there is no risk. But add some people and cook, bathing, clothes drying, then there is, so ventilation is needed.

You bought an old stone cottage that will have no damp proof course and was built to standards of the era. I could have told you it would likely be a cold and damp building to live in. Unless you hermetically sealed the extension from the rest of the house then the damp air will circulate. I very much doubt it is your location. Put a modern house like the ones many on here have built in that location and I bet you would not have any problem.

I organised everything and brought a contractor in to do all the labour elements. They provided the man power supported by workers I have onsite too, and I sorted all materials inc formwork designs and co-ordination so it went according to plan.

Are you a bit Slowwwww

Hi All, We poured this in one in the end. I had 4 concrete wagons on rotation, and 2 pumping wagons, one on standby just incase we hit any problems. Flow rate was fine followed by multiple pokers....weather perfect. Whilst it probably cost me more in formwork, we didnt have to move this stuff around. My only joint is where the slab meets the walls as well as the tie rod holes, since sealed with Sika X plugs and tanking membrane, which we protected with moisture resistant kingspan, which was also to meet EPC requirements. Backfill now complete too, which was only started after all internal walls had been build and the block and beam floors installed Very happy with the end result so far. Thanks for all the responses, really good hearing from others who have been there

If the TF firm did the Planning App drawings the client is on dodgy ground and may need to submit a fresh application with a substantially different design if she wants to avoid being sued.

I'd start off with BCO, sending them the video. Who may come out and tell you it is unsafe. Get that confirmed by email. Also the Chief Exec of the installer, and the senior and technical people at the UK Office of the manufacturer, if such exist. In any case you should be refusing to pay a penny until the install is safe. Make sure that you document carefully, as you will need to prove it. F

Not even slightly. They have a written evidence trail showing that she engaged them to do design work for her, that they did the work and gave her the drawings, that she changed her mind and is now building something very similar with a couple of walls and a velux moved. The public planning submissions will show them exactly what she's planning to build, too, so she can't even rely on them being ignorant of her actual intentions. Even if she's paid a design fee, the amount paid may have been set on the understanding that she was going to use the TF company for the build. In that case, the amount she paid may not have been what she'd have expected to pay for just the design work alone. So not "free", but you can't conclude that just because something was paid that there's no moral case to be made against her using the plans. Also (and as you say), even having paid a reasonable fee might not grant rights in any circumstances other than the TF company doing the build. Many (most?) architects and architectural design companies will retain copyright in their designs even if they're paid for. No. Unlike some other forms of IP like patents and trademarks, there is a subjective element to infringing copyright. The clue is in the name: copyright. If you do what's in the claims of someone else's patent, or you use someone else's registered trademark, it isn't relevant whether you copied it or came up with the idea entirely independently. The question is simply whether what you're doing infringes the registered rights. Copyright is different in that you need to show actual copying. If a potential infringer can show that they came up with even exactly the same design without knowing about the earlier work, then they won't be found to infringe (look at the recent Ed Sheeran case, which dealt with this issue). This is why showing that what's being built is similar to something else found online is irrelevant to whether the design was copied. It was by definition "copied" because that's what the evidence says. The test allows for variations from what's been copied. Showing that you've made changes is not enough to show you haven't copied. Making changes specifically to avoid copyright is even less likely to get you off the hook. You also can't avoid infringement by showing that elements of the design are known. It's the work as a whole that needs to be assessed.

Here's another one. They seem to be around.

Yep. Speak to Octopus and let them know youre plans. If you have the new system MCS installed then I think youll be able to run all your export from both systems through a single meter, but check with Octopus. Dont forget to speak to your DNO first as its all hypothetical until they give the go ahead.

I think you have most of the info you need in the comments above. Mine would be: 1 - The threat of legal action is not something necessarily to be scared of. Going "hammer-and-tongs or ignore" in return can be a mistake. Firstly, they want her attention. Perhaps looking for a middle way is a way ahead? 2 - Perhaps she should find out what fee will be charged for using the TF company's work. It may be acceptable to her. Or a counter-offer could be made. Their risk is that they may be known as a soft touch for further copyright violations; her risk is a sum of money. Who has a bigger motivation or ability to defend their interest? Due to bespoke requirements, they have probably spent professionals' time on her project, so they are understandably narked if the intention is to use their work, unpaid. I would guess at several days time, at perhaps £250-500 per day. 3 - My opinion is that she needs to have a candid conversation with the TF supplier. 4 - For risk management, she *could* check out how litigious they actually are. What is the riak of legal action? 5 - For *you*, remember that there are cases when an opinion such as yours offered to a friend has been deemed to be "legal advice", so make sure that you have no potential liability. My thoughts, which are explicitly *not* legal advice. Ferdinand

Yes, if youre getting deemed FIT export payments, as all your FIT payments are based only on the generation meter reading. If youve opted for metered FIT export payments(SEG) then youll need to meter your FIT and non FIT export separately.

While raising venture capital no doubt.

do the shed companies plans show internal block walls ? No ? then they are completely different. Tell them to go sing.

Even if she was completely in the right, nothing can stop the company threatening her. However, in this case she's probably not in the right. Changing cladding, moving a velux, and adjusting a couple of walls upstairs is extremely unlikely to overcome copyright. More to the point, your friend has basically had the equivalent of an architect or at least architectural designer design her an entire house. Why would she expect to have the benefit of that work product for free? I base this on your statement that the timber frame company did the "plans and designs". If they just did construction drawings based off someone else's designs, that would likely be a different thing. A constraint that a different designer would likely not deal with in an identical manner. If you give 10 architects a footprint, you won't get 10 identical designs. I know, because we had a footprint constraint on our site, and the various initial sketches we got back from the architects we approached were different from each other (in some cases wildly so). Copyright is in the design, not the construction method. Changing construction method has zero impact on whether she'll infringe copyright in the original design. If she copies the design, minor changes like these will not save her, especially if it's seen that the changes are to try and get around copyright.

If they did the design then yes they own the IPR (intellectual Property Rights). If you build the house but with different materials then they have a good case to stop you or want the design fees. Changing a couple of bits is not scrapping their ideas and doing something different. if you do want to use their layout and general appearance then I would be approaching them and asking for a settlement on the design costs.

I'm too tired to think coherently tonight, but here are some pics: Spent 3 days getting the 1st course right, training masons to work precisely. The next layers went up so quickly I didn't get any early pictures

Check ducting prices before you commit; last time I bought some from a merchant, bigger was cheaper due to the volumes they sold.

Sounds like bull$hit. The movement makes it less safe rather than more I reckon. l can't imagine anyone being happy with that. Probably worth getting hold of the manufacturers installer instructions if you can.

didn’t realise you were linking to alarm system fitted these back in the day.. https://www.alertelectrical.com/gjd-emerald-3000-mk3-lighting-controller-gjd010.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrNfX7NSw-gIV5OjtCh3bTgIjEAQYCSABEgKytfD_BwE

looks good, should have gone with hooks though, nice and easy to replace any. bend hook, slide slate out slide new slate in on a slate ripper to catch the top of the batten, bend hook back, job done. try that with double nailed slates.

I didn't want to over dramatise 😂 but yes, the first of the 4 ops she has had has been marked up by the medical staff as a life saver

Q1- you need permission from your DNO to export more than 3.68kw so you should already have permission for your 10kw system. If you want to export more, you need DNO approval of a G99 application. Q2- no problem running 2 or more systems in parallel. We have 2. Q3- its up to you how you configure things and somewhat dependant on what export your DNO will allow, but altering your FIT system is regulated so understand what the rules are before comitting to altering anything

We're direct electric here for everything. From my calcs/experience any space heating is better off done by a heat pump unless your annual demand is less than about 1MWh. (Electricity price dependant) @Spacey73you are already there with your A2A units. DHW is much more marginal given the lower COP achieved once you get to tap water temps. If you've already got an ASHP for space heating it's the cheapest solution. However the ASHP capital for DHW alone will take decades to pay back. Then it's much of a muchness between adding PV and a divert to the UVC or an ESHP. It really depends on where you are beginning from. For us I plan to add PV at some stage to the garage as the UVC has years of life left hopefully. If we needed to replace the UVC anyway an ESHP would be best. The Sunamp argument is separate. They're good for high temp heat sources, if you're really tight on space and need to avoid G3 servicing requirements and need to minimise heat loss requirements. I think an ideal application may be as a replacement to an electrical boiler or conbi in a tight cupboard to self use PV. For most situations a Combi, or an UVC or thermal store will be cheaper. However, who really cares, it's your money after all. This perpetual accountancy would have us all taking cold showers and eating spam direct from the tin.

Are you going to design (size) the veranda (lean to) roof to make it easy to fit PV modules? Probably cheaper to self install off grid and get some thermal and electrical storage, you can get 'islanding' systems that keeps everything easy as normal 230V switching, cabling and rules/regs apply. Cheapest, and most useful electrical storage is probably an EV, though not sure how easy they integrate into an islanding system.

The stone base, as in PD, allows the water to spread over the whole area. so it all works. This is a good solution as it avoids any pipe being lower and taking all the waste. Easier to build too, without trenches, muck falling in, fiddly membrane.

When we did ours, we did not dig "strips" we dug a rectangle area of the calculated size, covered the whole area with stones, laid the pipe in "strips" on the stones, covered the whole lot with more stones, then membrane and soil back on top.

We had a Planning Consultant submit a Pre-Application for us during Covid. We had an online Zoom meeting with the Planning Officer. He was employed by our local council, but actually lived over 200 miles away! He didn't know the area but researched everything online, he probably did more background work than if he was local. He was really good and very helpful. He basically gave us the blueprint for our application! Everything he said in his response got approved. In respect of our planning Consultant, that was a waste of money at over £4k. Their drawings were a photograph of the existing buildings edited in paint and what I can only describe as a cartoon of a house superimposed over the top. At the time I engaged them I was completely ignorant of Planning and how it works. Inspired by their pathetic efforts, and quote of over £10k for a full submission, I believed could do a better job myself. So that's what I did and received full Consent yesterday for a house, annex, stables / barn, 3 Bay cart lodge, large pond.

We had multiple pours just like @Thorfun with rotating form work. Sika swell bar horizontal between kicker and wall and vertical between walls. The contractor built in a recess for the swell bar in the concrete and it was held in place with the sika mastic. Worked well - if installed correctly the swell bar will easily cope with the tiny amount of movement you will get - it expands to multiple times its original volume when wet. We had a warranty from Sika for the system which gave me peace of mind. Leave it to the experts.

Following on from this I spoke to the joinery that’s making our windows and he said they keep everyone’s deposits safeguarded for their own job but had been considering a deposit insurance scheme which would come at an extra cost to the client but would protect it in the event of this situation. In some slightly positive news I have gathered quite a few willing (and skilful) volunteers for a works party over a weekend soon to get the house built in blockwork. It was mainly all timber clad so blockwork won’t cause a planning issue thankfully

I have black frames internally and externally...with the exception of the skylights which are white internally...the black was ANOTHER 300 quid option per window. Most places you can't see them together there is two rooms you can though but I will paint the skylight if it bothers me. I've still do to the inside. Attached pictures of limestone white render and black frames.

Anyone else been stung? Paid 90% with installation meant to start in a few weeks time and have just found out they went into liquidation yesterday. Been to the yard and there is barely a thing there. So despite one of my payments being entitled "Materials" and another "Manufacture" they have neither got my materials nor have they manufactured anything of my house. Anyone else been in a similar position? The more I speak to other trades and my architect the web of people they have let down is getting ever larger. The liquidator has informed me it'll be a week or more to get letters to all the creditors and then maybe a month or more before they know if there are any assets to liquidate. Feeling more than a little disappointed and have no recourse against them. More than that I now have foundations for a house I cannot afford to build.

Hi all, hoping someone around here would have an informed opinion if this is normal or not. I’ve had a frameless (no handrail, floor mounted with a channel system) glass balustrade installed last month. It looks good and all but I find that it wobbles too much on contact. The wobbling doesn’t seem to be from the glass against the channel but instead the whole channel giving in to the point that I don’t feel comfortable leaning on it at all. I’ve attached a video to exemplify how much it wobbles 68583016217__39C4AD84-9BA7-4B6F-A132-B5FB5D1F2721.MOV . As you can see the glass seems fixed to the channel, but the whole channel rocks back and forth. This is happening with minimal effort. When I questioned the installer I was told this had to be like this as if there was no give the glass could smash. I get that, but I also feel like the five should come from the glass against the channel, not from the whole channel moving back and forth. Anyone have any experience with this type of system that could tell me if the installer is correct or is this a bad installation? thanks in advance

Simple You get a long hacksaw blade and spend half an hour trying to cut the slate nails. Then carefully bend some old fragile slates out of the way whilst trying to prise the remains of the broken slate out. Despite your best try another 7 slates crack in the process. Whilst doing this you see the battens are completely rotten so you carefully start to cut out the damaged sections. Unfortunately this reveals the felt is in bad condition and full of holes. Cursing your luck you decide to decamp to the van to consider your options and avoid the unforecast downpour. Just then a gust whips yet more slates from the roof and blows one through the back window of a van marked "militant bat surveys". On que, perhaps disturbed by the din, an endangered " Green hairy bikini bat" emerges from a hole in the felt and lands on the windscreen wipers of said bat surveyors conveyance. Disheartened and defeated you go to turn the ignition key and retreat further to the pub. B*ollocks the van won't start. Walking home, you reach your house sometime in the dark only to be greated by the smoking remains of your torched semi-d and a note saying your Mrs has eloped with her yoga teacher. As the tears and snot drip from your nose you think back to where it all went wrong. Should have used slate hooks.

KANGO. NOT MANGO. I have know idea how you would break up concrete with a piece of fruit. 🤷‍♂️

Whats needed now is to get her back out there grafting while you have a well earned rest Good luck (with that) Ian 😉

Ar$e level! 👍

No, it only has one temp, our Jeremy had the same unit and confirmed it only worked that way 🤷‍♂️

If there's something strange in your neighborhood or if there's something weird and it don't look good, who you gonna call? Maybe it's ectoplasm?

My council want about £3,000 for the pre planning and its not an amount Im comfortable with wasting if it turns out that way.