Simplysimon

i had a quote from nu-heat, inc. an ashp, even though i told them i didn't need one. i could buy three mitsubishi for the price of the nibe. don't think so, i'll put a kichen in instead!

aldi currently have pressure washers in stock

the person who is going to install. i would have been surprised had it been the case, but i thought it best to check cheers both

hi Guys, i've been told that there is now a maximum distance for the electrical connection to the treatment tank, it was mentioned from the mains, 5m was mentioned but the tanks should be further. contacting building control to check but thought i'd get a better, more accurate and faster answer here. i didn't want to place the tank to find the regs have changed. cheers

and what? if the house has spiders, that's a good thing.

mobile broadband? as others have mentioned on here, 3 http://www.three.co.uk/discover/devices/huawei/homefi?memory=0&colour=Black now comes with the router which it didn't when we got it. works fine for us.

woo-hoo!

alternatively put the air tight layer on the outside - egger dhf, blown cellulose and osb inside with vcl layer if not using something like smartply.

i take it the windows don't get opened very often?

going up a radio mast

similar to mdf looking at spec though maybe a bit coarser https://www.egger.com/shop/en_IE//DHF-DHF-underlay-board/p/DHF will have some insulation properties, though i assume minimal. it's the use as a air tight membrane that's useful, putting it on the outside away from damage from follow on trades. d4 and seal all joints and d4 to i beams.

if a system works there's not much point in changing it unless it can be improved, hence the smartply option. which outside insulation?

nope, they didn't like the idea of steel after updating their quote. buy a load of i beams and make your own, massivly cheaper 😎 1st quote expensive, updated quote 50% increase. seems like they've got a good base and therefore if you can afford the passive title you can afford the kit, ludicrous. i wouldn't have thought the int. ins. would really be worth the difference in u value especially as you're using solid timber strapping which will need either cutting or boring for services. batten horizontally leaving spaces for cabling for swtches and counter batten vertically for pb.

with 360mm of i beams your u value will be at .1 so is the internal insulation really required and will make the fitting of insulation more awkward and leave cooler areas? i'm using a similar build up 350mm i beams, cellulose fill, egger dhf outside, osb internally either smartply osb or standard vcl (haven't decided yet), service cavity and pb.

without wishing to repeat myself 1x hammer, 1 x nail if necessary 🤣 save a fortune, job would have been done by now.