Simplysimon

have you looked https://www.usedkitchenexchange.co.uk/product-category/handleless-kitchens/ here?

welcome to the madhouse, in three years you'll have caught up with @joe90

i take it that as you know it's clay with sand, you know how deep to put the hardcore in to? the pile of recycled material will be fine for bottoming, compacted well with type 1 on top. as @Declan52 says, you can build up in block and fill with concrete, alternatively you can build up in well compacted type 1 and then shutter the slab on top.

he's not too sure on what's required and is covering his ar$e

i would be doing as @Mr Punter suggests, however, i would take the epdm/fibreglass into the house and return up the threshold to the limit of being covered by internal flooring. this would then work as a lead tray in a dormer does. that way there would be no need for external mastic and would allow any water to run away. i would definitely stay away from re-sizing the triangular window, an expense that shou;dn't be required and may not give you much benefit.

is that after you've upgraded the stableblock to blockwork with a cavity and insulation to keeps the horses warm in the winter?

so you want to change the surface of your drive from, say 3x2 slabs to monoblock, who are you going to inform?

timber frame and cavity with cembrit cladding or any other cladding which doesn't need maintenance.

here's my price, doesn't inc road as i was doing that through a contractor

@djcdan i would do as @ProDave said, get the connection to the box and then connect. if you run your pipe sw will need to examine all your pipework prior to their connection being made. ensure you have all the double check valves in place as well.

the benefit as i see it is that it's better racking strength, can't be punctured easily and if neatly cut and fitted should be equal to, or better than, poly. for air tight. what is the u value for your wall? have you looked at buying i beams and stick building? how are you fitting joists, sitting on wall head or hanging? if sitting on wall you can fit poly around the ends and achieve good air tighness as others on here have but propassive right round and hang them is a lot easier.

hi, are you sticking with standard 145mm kit or trying to get a better u value? even with a standard kit, if you internally clad in osb such as propassive glued to kit and glued joints, you could acheive a good level of airtightness and then have a service cavity. realistically it shouldn't cost double for the kit to passive standards. price the fitting of the insulation (neatly done to avoid cold spots) against blown insulation and i don't think there will be much difference.

good quality work there, need to be careful it doesn't fall down itself.

a term for a plain architrave.

what about care homes they may not need the same criteria as nhs?