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To make it look nice, cut out all the broken stuff first so it's an equal and even gap, otherwise when the new caulk dries it'll shrink and still show the original stepped stuff through

Think you'll struggle with quadrant or scotia on that, its curved! Quadrant may do it with enough nails in it, but you risk breaking it. Siliconised caulk for me, and then paint over once dry to seal it and slow it drying and cracking itself.

I always try and ensure the pipe runs downward toward the vents and preferably in a rigid pipe. Condensation then will trickle down and not get caught in the ribs or spiral. You’ll get pools of water that will go stale if not.

Weeks 4 and 5 of the build saw our basement slab being poured. it was a major milestone for us and we're really happy....well, apart from the section that was too high and they needed to grind it down of course, but apart from that we're really happy. ? We have 200mm EPS300 specified for under the slab and this was laid by using a long telescopic rule from the profile board strings 4m above at ground level. We are supposed to have a 200mm toe outside the slab and luckily I was outside when the basement contractor's engineer came for a site visit to set out for the slab and I asked if it was square and was told it was a bit off in one corner. a bit off turned out to be 70mm. now, in my mind if a structural engineer tells me that the 200mm toe is needed to take the 45° load from the walls above then you really should have a 200mm toe and 130mm just wouldn't cut it. you'd think that wouldn't you? but, it turns out that unless I was there to ask them to move the insulation so that I had the correct toe all around it it wouldn't have been done as the corner points had already been marked. I got a few huffs and whinges about 'but we've already set out' but there was no way I was letting it slide and made sure I was happy with the toe widths. This just goes to show the importance of living on-site as I pop out every hour or so to get a break from my desk to see what's been going on. if I didn't do that I wonder what else might get missed and just covered up? Anyway, after the corners were set out the FIS waterproofing membrane (http://www.fisproducts.co.uk/product/maxiprufe-plus-2/) was put down on top of the EPS300 as this will then join the same membrane on the walls to form a waterproof wrap around the basement to ensure Type A protection and with the Type B waterproof concrete that will give us our 2 forms of waterproofing. Following that was the formwork, steel bar and mesh, hydrophilic strips (http://www.fisproducts.co.uk/product/cemflex/) and kickers and then we were ready for the concrete. The day of the slab pour came and we were extremely excited. It was though, as I’m sure it is in most cases, a very last minute dash to get ready for the pour. The contractors were let down by a couple of extra pair of hands on the morning of the pour so they were rushing around finishing off bits in between lorry loads of concrete. it all worked out ok in the end though. We took loads of photos as well and here are some for your enjoyment. The waterproof membrane on the EPS: Formwork almost complete: Steel mesh: kickers almost finished. the final ones in the courtyard (to the right) were done on the day of the pour: The shuttering for our sump in the courtyard: first lorry load: almost there: finished: sadly the weather turned a bit for the worse during the pour and the finish isn't perfect so we'll probably have to put a self-levelling screed down but we can cross that bridge when we get to it. the next morning: After they struck the slab formwork they made a start on the wall rebar. it's only now that I see it up that I realise how bloody high the ceilings will be! 3m was the request and that is what I got. painting them will be fun. ? I did create a video for these last couple of weeks but as all the work was predominantly down at the bottom of the big hole and the camera didn't really catch it all I've sped the footage up quite a bit. Still, I think it's a pretty good watch and you can certainly see a large portion of the work that was done. (Please note that the music has explicit lyrics so you are forewarned) This week they’re starting on putting up the formwork for the walls and we’re hoping to get a pour in towards the end of the week which will be great. I was told that the walls should take about 3 weeks in total so we should really see some great progress over the next few weeks. As always, thanks for taking the time to read our journey.

Water only needs to be 750mm and if it’s a meter away and dug with a 12” bucket it won’t cause any harm but watch out for services to the other house when digging

For new build Terrace houses and Apartments, how about District Heating? Seems to work in Sweden.

Don’t think so as 3-4m is no worse than ordinary houses from the main tank. Worst case add a secondary return loop.

I'm new to self-build myself but a fair bit further on from you. My own experience re the architect has been very positive and I can only imagine the mess I would be in now without him to be honest. I'm sure going it alone for some is the right thing to do, but I certainly do not have the confidence to do that. Our architect has been brilliant to deal with in all regards and comes in at a total of £3500. I'm more than happy with that and guess like many thinks it's different strokes for different folks. As far as build costs, you could ask 10 people and get 10 different answers in my opinion. It depends on the complexity and design of your build, whether you're simply going to pay a builder to do it for you or project manage and become the main contractor yourself. Plus, material costs are increasing massively at the moment but there is talk that might start to correct by the end of the year. Whatever, sounds like you're past the point of no return, try to keep your design simple and try not to spend more than you need to while targeting a quality of build that you will be happy with - that's what I'm doing. The Builders Bible has some good advice re construction costs and how design can affect them.

My build is similar to yours but with 200mm cavity and dritherm and I discounted them as it will make min difference, on another thread they talk about making your own and buying the rods in length (can’t remember the thread ?‍♂️) and very much cheaper than specific wall ties.

No. Secondary only 22mm to the supply points such as the tap tees then 10mm back from the furthest point.

Not worth it. Save the money. The ties will be the equivalent of 100mm x 100mm area and as they don't go from outside temp to heated space they will have almost no impact.

We actually need to make some of them smaller as new internal walls will hit the outside right in the middle of 3 windows. But, we are rendering and will have plasterboard inside so I hoped that it wouldn't show once we finish.

Welcome. Start researching different construction types, brick, block, timber frame, SIP, ICF, rammed earth even. Then decide what you can do yourself. Then decide what you can do without. Sack architect, they will spend all your contingency, and more. You don't need much more than a sketch to get planning.

It had never occurred to me that wall tie conduction was significant. Now seeing the extra cost it would take a lot of lost energy to recover that cost. So I wouldn't change from the norm. If it makes a huge difference, I would expect Ancon to have done tests and made the case. I remember once working out the heat loss through screws in an industrial roof. They are going from the hex head outside in the weather, right through to the roof rails, via other metal bits. It was surprisingly little heat loss, and complex to find a sensible alternative. The standard wall U values as calculated, presumably included wall ties, so the loss is already accounted for.

In you're case no. What's the build up of the walls? See below example I've done for you.

What is your overall wall build up..? Inside to outside ..?

I think it is driven by shortages brought on by businesses being greedy and furloughing staff. I know of so many businesses that were just shutting down with no real reason to do so other than so management and owners could take the year off and not worry about the financial implications. Clearly this is not the story for all and for many financial problems are rampant, but there was some sheer greed and stupidity at play. When they stopped making plasterboard and milling wood that was just ridiculous because it was still being consumed apart for the first 4-5 weeks of initial lockdown. But lots of manufacturers saw the opportunity to stop paying wages, shaft the government and sit and do very little. So now we have shortages of everything due to backlog and also a boom in building projects, Brexit has nothing to do with it. Costs should drop again when it all levels but I fear they won't as everyone gets greedy.

Yes timber drying out IMO and timber always moves a little so I second non setting caulk.

London tends to be 1 to 1.5°C higher temperature than the surrounding counties (though it does depend where in London as it is a very large place). So ASHP a good idea, and they can cool. Also the air quality is pretty poor. So MVHR should be fitted (put the inlet pipe up as high as possible). So there may be, depending on the space available and the cash to spend, a case for forced air heating as that can combine the two. It is only larger pipework really.

Ideally you want an ASHP oversized as this reduces the airspeed though the external heat exchanger. This keeps noise levels lower and improves the CoP (lot of air, cooled a little, rather than a small amount of air, cooled a lot). Modulation is really to do with matching the airflow with the thermal extraction to the temperature (and RH) differences needed. Modulation ASHPs also tend to draw a lower current when starting, which stops the lights dimming.

Thank you!

One of the types of trim. Also there's scotia, which is concave, and various others. Your Wicked has them on the end of an alley.

What's quadrant? It means something else to me ?

A piece of quadrant.

Normally a day per millimeter

Style is personal choice, but even within brands some items are good, very good or total rubbish ... or just a pain to fit etc. If for instance you wanted a corner bath and asked about a particular brand or model then a good chance someone will be able to give you some pointers.

It all depends on what you are looking for and wanting to pay, plus price is not always relevant to quality. worst bath i ever bought was a very expensive German one (cant remember the name), best shower tray was from Victorian Plumbing, Best basin was from Bathrooms Direct. I would suggest you having a look around and `feeling` the quality of various items that interest you. If you then ask about a specific item im sure members will be able to steer you clear or praise the item.

The dip switches are on the PCB inside the FTC6 controller case. You remove two screws to pop the lid off the case, and they're right infront of your nose (along with various live terminals) Note the system needs to be powered down and back up to notice the dip switch change. Yes, it will heat DHW even when the controller is set to operate in cooling mode. Obviously only one or other at a time Make sure it has been plumbed correctly with a 2 position valve to send water to the heating or cylinder circuit but not both together.

Guys I know use this stuff (other suppliers are available ..!!) https://www.british-flooring.co.uk/product/gripper-adhesive-a-must-when-glueing-carpet-gripper/

Pretty much. Get a roof detail into them - that will let you start on site, then start detailing the externally mounted services etc. however, don't wait too long, given they want to see where more or less everything attached to your house is going to be, it could have an impact on boiler locations, soil pipes, all sorts, even ground works, which, if rejected could alter your plans significantly, so realistically, it might be time to sit down and detail it all up now. They just want it to look nice basically.

Yarp, they do have a cooling mode. It is a dip switch on the FT5 controller and jobs a good en?

The screed looks fine. Your flooring fitter may want to prime it before laying the Karndean / LVT.

A family member was convinced that we had dramatically increased the footprint after seeing the footings then coming back to see the kit up. It's very deceptive.

I think the phraseology you are using is what is confusing them, all ASHP's I have ever used have had a cooling mode, yes in theory the cycle is in reverse or as you say "running backwards" but I think that is confusing them. Just confirm it has cooling mode or better, get onto the Mitzi site and download the datasheet to confirm. Installers are good at installing stuff, they tend, not always, but do tend, to be a bit clueless and lacking in any care of actual use or functionality like a user like you is discussing.

https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/14636-ecodan-cooling/ Running backwards is not really the right term to use. This caused a lot of confusion with heat pumps.

Yes you can as long as it’s not on RHI as they disable the ability for the unit to do cooling. You also need to make sure you add isolator valves so you don’t try and cool the DHW tank in error.

Personally, I would not call the builder, I think he will, with all due respect, think you are being pedantic - you now have good dated record of this on this forum if you ever did need to show him. Unless you need to for testing reasons and at that I would only do a short test, I'd leave the UFH now until I needed it in the autumn/winter. Cracks in concrete/screed are totally normal. Keep an eye on them, if by say middle of July things are looking terrible then maybe start to worry, but so far that is just what screed does, it is like paint, it is inevitable it is going to dry! If you have any to look at, go and look at a dried out concrete block wall, note various little cracks in the bond between the mortar and block, this is all shrinkage and is normal, can look a bit distressing to many but it is normal. Also bear in mind this is just a floor screed, even if it were a structural slab I still wouldn't worry at what I can see above. If you can start putting £1 coins into the gap though!

Yes, it also cures from the outside in, so surface readings are not illustrative of the whole section.

Looks like normal shrinkage to me.

Anything with a Peugeot XUD engine would still be going. Landrovers should be classed as EVs, the body panels and the rivets make a mice battery.

Happy days. This makes things much simpler. One cut per row and on to the next.

Yes, I agree. We ran our UFH via the ASHP for a good 4 weeks on a specific cycle which aided the slab to dry out correctly. Prior to that it had been left to dry for a few weeks anyway. A top tip would be to put down a sheet of clear plastic, taped to the floor and then leave it to see if any moisture is evident on the underside of the plastic sheeting a day or so later.

Nah, the use of MVHR for airtight house is a well beaten track. Moisture won't gather in the ground floor ceiling void if the rest of the house is only knocking at around 50%RHI. Dont overthink it?

If it’s a sand and cement screed Not concrete You need to leave it 12 weeks minimum to dry out and finish shrinking

Agree with LA3222. All concrete and screed cracks. This has no contraction joints , but does have fibres so will crack at almost random. Are the cracks very, very narrow? Good Are they random, and fizzle out rather than go a distance? Good. My concern would be hardness. You say it is sandy, and coming away. That may just be the very surface, try a little deeper, and I expect you will find it is harder. A loose sandy surface will not accept the adhesive so may simply need to be rubbed back and given a coating. Not saying this is Ok but first impression is that it is. Your builder must see it and comment.

I'm no expert but I would say it's fine - look like shrinkage cracks to me. Concretes dries out and it shrinks a bit, if there are no precut bits for it to crack into, it will crack where ever it fancies! I'd say carry on?

Talk to your home builings 'insurance company too. Damage to your driveway may be covered by the policy, and in this case the cause is encroachment by an invasive plant. That sounds enough like a neighbour's tree dropping branches on your roof (for which they are liable if aware of the hazard) as to be worth a conversation. As to dealing with it - potentially a helluva job. Weedkiller may be multiple applications of full strength whatever. There's no point relaying a drive if you haven't got rid of it. It will probably come down to weedkilling until it is dead. So I would go for 3 and 50% refund, and try your insurance company. I would want to see if repeated weedkillings (ay 3 times a year) is a management strategy. Ferdinand

Ooh that kitchen looks very nice ?

That’s fine - you can insulate pipes underground but you need to put a frost stat in the garage to keep things moving in colder weather.

My thoughts (not based on any actual analysis) is that it is just fall out from brexit and covid. Shortages at the start of the year mean people are buying more and and much as they can when it is available to catch up. Basically exactly like supermarkets and lack of food and specifically toilet roll at the start of the pandemic. A direct result of panic buying and its continuing into materials for trade. There are no less trees (apart from the ones that are harvested) sawmills still operating, plants still producing etc. Raw materials are very much available as they were 12 months ago its just a lag and manufacturers and suppliers reacting to that shortness of supply. If everyone chills out and stops stockpiling or buying more than they need then it'll slow down and return to normal.