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Thats a manual cutter though - for a snap and score it’s not that bad. . Rubi 200 is a wet bench - yes will set you back £2-300 depending on model but they are a real bonus when you’re basically wet cutting 22mm limestone ..! https://www.tileexperience.co.uk/rubi-du-200-l-230v-50hz-electric-tile-cutter-25973

That will probably perform badly. You can get cheap "proper" socket sets e.g this is probably the bottom end of the market https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Socket-Set-40pce-Metric-Imperial-AF-Sockets-Ratchet-Reducers-3-8-1-4-Drive/182463732218?epid=2254731687&hash=item2a7baf99fa:g:6PwAAOSw2gxYrXj9 I have 2 such cheap socket sets (not identical but similar in scope) and as long as you don't try and shift a completely seized nut, they have done good service for a DIY mechanic.

All Hail Jeremy!!

Follow up on this. Vincent Timber have a factsheet about Timber Louvre options for Brise Soleils etc which I have attached. It is one from this rather extensive library of useful information. http://www.vincenttimber.co.uk/informationanddownloads/index.html Ferdinand 20190317-Vincent-Timber-Factsheet-Timber_Louvre_Options.pdf

I got my pre-app response back recently, just shy of 7 months after being submitted, its pretty positive with comments such as the principle of the development, design, scale and massing is considered acceptable, which has to be a big tick! There is one thing in the response that is going to cost me £££ at this stage that i hadn't accounted for, but not the end of the world. Lets see how it goes once the full application goes in, in a few weeks time, but at least it gives me the confidence to proceed.

You deserve a night on the tiles for that effort...

But seriously, for all those guys ordering from Europe, if there is a problem with shipping, just use a reshipping address like https://mobile.logoix.com/cgi-bin/index.pl There are others available. A lot will receive the shipment and reship for a small fee. I do normally pay around 10eur for a moving box size parcel.

@recoveringacademicSag amoi, hast du Kein ü auf der tastatur oder was? ?

Rubi Practic 60 here. Not all that impressed.

200L from memory ..?

My concern is to keep the thread (in truth, all threads ) balanced and factual. And in that respect, expert opinion is highly valued. But danger exists - especially on line - where there is little or no challenge to perceived technical expertise. Currently, we only have direct evidence of one problem install and, as written, second hand reports of others: hearsay. And we have direct reports of many problem free installs. We have to be seen to be objective, fair, and balanced in our treatment of what for many members (and non members) could be an expensive purchase decision.

Take inspiration from the Georgians. Following the 1774 London Building Act window frames had to be fully set back inside the wall so that in the event of a fire a sash window would not fall out into the street below. As a consequence window frames were near flush with the internal wall finish... the things you learn doing a new build in a conservation area. Sash window history here. http://www.theheritagedirectory.co.uk/viewarticle.asp?artid=49

Yay me ? only took 3 evenings ?

It’s only a garage BUT If you wanted a very neat finish You could stick a strip of PB on the bare edge butted up against the frame Staple skim beads on the edge and give it a couple of coats of joint cement or easifill Then sand

Yeah, but it's probably the only correct one!

+1 for @Crofter solution

Timber beading, stuck on with gap-filling adhesive, and then painted over?

A VCL is impermeable to vapour and water and can be fitted to the inside (warm side) or the insulation. This reduces the risk of warm moisture laden air migrating through the fabric of the building and possibly condensing within the structure. A breather membrane is rainproof but allows moisture to escape and is normally located on the outside (cold side).

You have my sympathy about architects. We did a lot of shopping around for architects, twice! First to find one whose work we liked, and interrogated those (and visibly made them squirm about the true cost of constructing the houses). That was an education. We learned that architects actually almost never get involved with building what they design, or not in regard to managing any budget, so have no clue of the true construction cost implications of their fancy ideas, cantilevers, non standard windows, deep roof overhangs and much else. They also build for themselves and most are poor listeners, even when you say you have a budget of £xK. We decided not to use an architect at that point. Instead we then went down the route of looking at package builders, including Potton, especially at their existing designs and those that can be customised, tweaked, etc where they own the copyright. In the end we abandoned Potton, as well. Partly because we didn't in the end find a house we really liked, partly because we worked out their understanding of turnkey and ours did not align - they need to check a dictionary!!! When they talked numbers, lots of crucial elements were missing - and this was not just for the delivery of a timber frame pricing! Then we went back to an architect, but this time with a much better idea of what we wanted. Essentially, I designed the house we wanted on a free software package - SketchUp - and then got an architect to turn it into something suitable for planning submission. We did learn a lot in the meanwhile, but that whole learning process, toing and froing and a refused submission in the middle took a long time. The house we have permission to build is radically different from where we started. There are some unfortunate compromises, the house we have planning for will cost more to build that the initial concept, but actually it's a much nicer design, but we are not there yet, just living in a quagmire. I am under the impression that timber frame constructors and package companies like Potton, etc are actually surprisingly busy at the moment with full order books - which while still inexcusable is part of why responses are slow. We have been amazed how much chasing we have had to do to get follow up from the companies we felt we really did want or need to speak to at every turn, and it's even worse right now. Builders' merchants, contractors, etc are all busy. We are so glad we started to speak to and line up preferred contractors last year even though we did not start signing contracts until full PP was in place. (We had to put in new planning apps in first week of January for a few tweaks and to add our garage, etc, and our number was 32. Applications are given a consecutive number each year (or in our area!) and our October 2018 app was only 75 applications higher than one registered last week at the end of our road and it's mid March.) I cannot speak to costs as our budget and much else is at great variance from yours, including where we live and the costs of contractors in my neck of the woods. Good luck. DHDreamer

You are not a mechanic using it every day, it’s what I would call a “just in case tool”. Be interested to hear how you get on with it, I would consider keeping one of these in the car “in case”. I also do my own mechanics and have a full tool box fir that.

If you are wondering whether something is a trip hazard : it is. Design it out.

I only envisage using it in extremis.......may get a glass case with a sign saying break in an emergency LOL

@DreamHouseDreamer I got quite a long way down that route before changing horses. Paid thousands to their pet H&S person (one of their ex salesman who has set himself to do the H&S) couldnt get it back. He was paid over £3k for a few pages of rubbish I could have done myself but they wont allow that you have to use their people ditto on all the stuff including site welfare facilities...I dont think you have an option they won't compromise. So do the best deal you can on one of those swanky welfare units with not only loo but seating area with cooking facilities (microwave) and hot water hand wash etc....sky sports go down well too LOL....but seriously I found some for hire at circa £100 a week but that was 3 years ago. You can't claim the vat back either unless you can get someone i.e. your groundwork contractors to do it via them and do it vat free to you. At least with the Germans its for a limited time and so you wont get a huge bill for it.

Please tell us you're gonna get your "chinese fella" onto him...

I wonder how many of these companies that produce reports are run by ex-council planning staff who still know people who work for the planning departments...

Re cheap socket sets. I find the sockets themselves are ok but the ratchet in handle fails or falls apart. When you buy a replacement handle it won't fit in the box. Oh and the catch on the box will fail and all your sockets will fall out and disappear to the bottom of the tool box or roll under the car :-)

I had quotes from Nuheat and settled for Wunda, kit is very good quality and they provide drawings. And a lot cheaper.

If i was asked to suggest cheap set for all round use then you want one that goes from 8mm -to 22m 3/8 drive only that will cover most things add to that a set of comb spanners that cover same range and you got a good start I bought some of these a while ago - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metric-extra-long-ratchet-spanner-double-ended-8mm-19mm-socket-adapters-AT540/123024120058?_trkparms=aid%3D333200%26algo%3DCOMP.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D56580%26meid%3D5960d59333af403dbf09b610ad5d2bf9%26pid%3D100008%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D141594486824%26itm%3D123024120058&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219 -i call them my old mans spanners --very long so you can get a good swing without being very strong- you use ring end to crack the bolt then swop ends feeling my age sometimes with some jobs --they have 15mm +18mm which are getting very common --a lot of sets miss these out -

@Christine Walker Spot on! The ground workers bring a second set of clothes, so they don't soil their own vans. When some sacks of MOT and other stuff got delivered from Chandlers, a pack of gloves were included in the delivery, and every time we see them manhandling anything at all, those gloves are being worn. Never seen anything like it in my life. ? @lizzie Yes, similar. Why do you ask? DHDreamer

@lizzie, you're just like everyone else. You have to start somewhere. You'll use them, and often they'll be fine, and sometimes you'll whisper sweet nothings under your breath because [.... fill in the reason here ....] and when you're next in a shed or Halfords or somewhere like that and you see an offer, you'll buy them - because ' I just need them, and they were on offer anyway ' ? Just like wimmin need an apple corer (when hands and knife will do) or a potato flagellator (when a fork will do) ......

Wow - looks like a crime scene!

well --yes it is cheap and cheerful universal tools usually fit everything poorly --but your not a mechanic -so light use could be ok down side will be for smaller bolts outside size of the socket unit could get in the way .# but your not guddling in confined spaces of an engine probably. put it this way a single 13mm comb spanner from snap -on is £40 . not that i use them --you can loose an expensive one just as easy as a cheap one I use cheap spanners -and except that maybe in a couple of years they could be worn --and no one steals cheap ones screw drivers +pliers /side cutters + mole grips --yes i spend a bit more on them

If it was me..... I would be levelling the top surface with cement and then putting a solid wooded bearer onto that which will then be attached by either drilling and fixing directly into the concrete core or with straps over it and down the sides and screwed into the blocks.... bedding the wood onto the cement when it’s wet should give you the opportunity to get the final timber surface dead level. Then it’s just a matter of attaching it. I may have missed the point though ?

Consider your post, as it will there for a long time. If it was a separate post, I would consider using a concrete post repair spur, as it comes with bolt holes already included, and the lifetime of a concrete post. eg This is the Wickes version at £18: https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Fence-Concrete-Repair-Spur---75mm-x-100mm-x-1200mm/p/542503 I usually pay more like £8-10 from a local supplier. Ferdinand

Right crack on then @Dreadnaught..!! Decent meter boxes here

Think we had a bit of rain last night . Track marks look pretty much the same . Not a hint of the red dye . So today’s check is inconclusive. Will hose that outside wall again later

Brilliant BuildHub does it again! UKPN have just confirmed that I can attach a cheap meter cabinet to the fence (or at worst a concreted fence post with plywood). Thanks all!

Wire in a 230V old fashioned light bulb with one side on live and the other on the rod. The better the earth the brighter the bulb! I can't condone this as a test method btw...

Wow. I would LOVE to hear the technical explanation for this disruption! Thank heavens I didn’t use grey cable clips to fix my 4mm T&E supply cable to the Sunamp controller. Oh, hang on, I did so that’s probably why my Sunamp units failed. ???

I've been having some correspondence with Sunamp recently, as well as with other Sunamp customers who have had similar issues. The good news is that they are making changes to the controller firmware, that they believe will reduce or remove the failure to charge problem that we have for around 30% of the time. I believe that they have changed the charge acceptance threshold, but I don't know what they've changed it to, and TBH I doubt that it's a fixed value, given the challenges posed by trying to estimate state of charge from just three temperature sensors inside the heat battery (really a cell, IMHO, but they refer to it as a battery). Sunamp are certainly being helpful, and are sending me an updated controller, and have asked if I can assess it's performance. However, this is a Catch 22 request, as they've also said that I can't fit the status light to the new controller... The big problem this presents is that without the status light there is no way to tell whether or not the Sunamp is in the "accepting charge" state, which means that not only can I not compare it to the original controller's performance, but I have no way of knowing whether or not we are likely to run out of hot water the following day. I'm not that confident that they have really grasped the nature of charging a Sunamp from excess PV generation, either, as the suggested fix for having no indicator was to just time how long the Sunamp took to charge. Bit of a tall order when it's charging from variable power PV and you have no way of knowing when the thing is charged... My question about modifying the new controller to fit the absolutely essential status indicator has gone back to their technical people, but I have been given an interim reply that mentions it disrupting the way the controller senses the status of the heat battery, which is, frankly, BS, as the only sense mechanism is the chain of temperature sensors, and they are completely isolated from the heating element contactor (which is all that the indicator mod connects to). I'm really glad that Sunamp are looking at this issue, and have been working on a way to address it, but at the same time I've not got a lot of confidence that they actually know a lot about how either normal excess PV generation systems work, or how they interface with their product. This is completely at odds with the technical people involved in the Sunamp PV, who clearly had an in-depth understanding of what was needed to make best use of PV generation. I'm hopeful that things are looking up. though, and that I will be able to stop going into the services room every morning just to reset the Sunamp so we can be assured of getting hot water the following day.

Whenever you get that feeling. "that's going to hit me" /"that's going to slip and cut me" /"ill trip over that later" /"I bet there's a pipe or cable behind there" Listen to that feeling.

I've had and have virtually identical cracks. What I think happens is that the plaster on the ceiling shrinks pulling the plaster from the wall. The crack sometimes happens where the wall and ceiling meet but frequently you get these horizontal cracks about 2" lower down the wall. In my experience the 2" wide strip of plaster above the horizontal crack is usually stuck to the ceiling but loose from the wall. On previous houses I've bashed out the loose plaster which leaves big holes all along the top of the wall. The holes are too big/deep for "fillers" so I use proper plaster (sometimes ready mixed). On the three houses I've lived in I've never actually found any obvious scrim tape that accounts for the position of the horizontal crack.

I once sold a newish house with cracks like yours. The purchaser asked if I would reduce the price on the basis of the cracks. I agreed to do so if could show me a house less than 12 months old without similar cracks. Sold that day....

There are a number of shading calculation tools here that might help https://susdesign.com/tools.php

Was sure somewhere I read they were changing to 3 x 1kW to allow for some redundancy if one failed... Virgin coconut oil at Lidl for £2.99/300ml. Melting point around 24degC...just thinking out loud...

I'm in the final stages of my project with trades doing the majority of the work. Even so, it's crazy busy and you often feel like your head is going to burst with the amount of detail and activity. Having to dance to the tune of a TV production at the same time, who have no interest in things going smoothly for you, is a step way too far in my view. I would question your objectives - do you want to be on telly or have a lovely house without inviting additional stress and hassle. I can't see that they compatible objectives.

yes the ratchet on cheap tools is always crap if you lean on it best value for money i think is bergen tools --not expensive but good quality + can be used daily -plenty of internet sellers at good prices as well

No way would I consider this personally. Firstly the house would be building up a CGT liability for the new owner, secondly the new owner could evict me from my own home or sell it without my permission, thirdly if there was a divorce or bankruptcy I may lose my home, and fourthly this may count as a ‘gift with reservation of benefit’ which means that it is treated the same way as if the house had remained in the original owner’s estate so IHT and care home fees will still apply. I’m sorry to say that I have seen a family ripped apart by this when it sounded like a great thing to do at the start.