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Cambs last won the day on May 21

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  1. Green Building Store have done a number of retrofits to existing properties. Their website is a pretty useful source of information, so have a look around there. Here's a link to their Technical Resources page
  2. This company do a hybrid straw/timber frame product. It might be the "Eastern European" company mentioned above?
  3. Hope this link works for you .... They're on Page 34
  4. I've read these on and off for years - picking them up as I have been starting a build. They've definitely got worse, in my opinion, over the last few years. They've become much more about interior design and less about the actual build processes and people's experiences of it. They're now filled with articles which feature things like £5,000 baths and other extravagances. Bringing it back on topic, I really like Passive House Plus magazine. It's got great detail on build methods in each case study, detailing construction methods from inside to out as well as all of the components used in the build.
  5. Good idea - fixings are on their way, I’ll put some of this on too. It’ll all help.
  6. A bit more Googling turned up some options today - a "spiral anchor" turned out to be the best search term. Fischer do them, as do a number of others. Ended up getting them from Amazon so I can get them tomorrow. About 50p each, so not cheap but that price is similar to most of the suppliers.
  7. It looks like it takes about a minute to install the solar module, according to this Velux video so not a lot of extra effort for the builder
  8. I'm now battening out and cladding our flat roof dormers in OSB in preparation for the lead cladding. The dormers are constructed with wood fibre board on the exterior. I can find structural timber behind the wood fibre board to fix the battens to in most cases, but there are a few areas on the cheeks of the dormers where I'll need to attach battens to the wood fibre boards without structural timber behind them. I'm struggling to find and source suitable plugs that I can put into the wood fibre board and then screw the battens to. There's enough support elsewhere that I don't need a great deal of strength. I have found these two potential solutions: I'd welcome any thoughts on the best way to do this.
  9. We are going to put intumescent barriers in the cavity and having all of the exterior timbers factory treated with HR Prof to stop spread fo fire. We need to do this anyway for at least part of the building due to proximity to the boundary and adjacent properties.
  10. DIY Kitchens now do an Express Range, not sure if it's cheaper than their standard or not. They'll do these 10 kitchen units in the Mirano range for £1,187 + VAT. Not exactly your layout but it'll give you some idea. Haven't used the Express range before but will be fitting one from their standard range in the current build, having fitted one in our last place. Here's what is included : What's included in this kitchen layout? 500mm Single Highline Kitchen Base Unit (FD5) 1000mm Double Highline Sink Base (SBF10) 1000mm Wide Highline Corner Base Unit (FDCB10) 500mm Single Highline Kitchen Base Unit (FD5) 1000mm Pan Drawer Units (P2D1-10) 500mm Single Highline Kitchen Base Unit (FD5) 600mm Built In Oven Housing - 1970 High (SOH) 500mm Single Wall Unit - 720 High (MW5) 500mm Single Wall Unit - 720 High (MW5) 600mm Single Wall Unit - 720 High (MW6) 14 Mirano Cashmere Doors (For above units) 2 x Mirano Cashmere Plinth 2 x Mirano Cashmere Cornice 1 x Mirano Cashmere Corner Post Appliances, worktops, sinks & taps are NOT included in the pricing.
  11. Here’s my detail. Roofing company have suggested that I move the fascia board up by 50mm so that it aligns with the batten and counter batten. Note the requirement for a fascia vent - Manthorpe over fascia vent below
  12. Resurrecting this thread - how did you get on with this? I have a similar requirement - timber frame, 50mm vertical battens and timber cladding
  13. I fitted one on the first floor of our previous build - the safe had holes on the bottom and back of it. I hooked a bracket with threaded ends under the joist and into the bottom of the safe then used nuts and washers to fix it to the floor. Perhaps drill holes in the concrete floor, epoxy in some threaded rod, feed through the holes in the safe and then use nuts inside the safe to secure? I'll be fitting another one in this build - very useful for important documents and jewellery etc. when going on holiday
  14. Green Building Store supply Ultion with the doors that we have just had installed. I didn't know anything about them so had a look at the website and was quite impressed.
  15. Yes, I have a Brinno TLC200Pro. Here's a link to the time-lapse video