bassanclan

In a similar situation looking at quotes etc. Parts looking like £1250-1500 of fully installed £5000. My cheapest quote so far is from GatesGates as recommended by @nod on another thread

I wish someone had told my electrician this! He fitted Saxby downlights. £10-12 each and they haven't lasted 18 months. I will systematically change them over time

I think a council would struggle to enforce against the permitted development. In theory the garage could be knocked down and then the porch would be entirely permitted development, which makes a mockery of the guidance

Glue is a better bet in this instance. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364771798768?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ov-2yzu-rew&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=sZUbc1BTTHO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Foam would have been ideal if you were fixing to bricks etc where there might be frogs etc.

Yes thats what I was getting at, if you had a socket nearby you could just leave it charging all the time if you were so inclined

Low expansion foam or adhesive depending on what you are fixing to

It is too big for a porch pd, but it is pd single storey: If the extension is within 2m of a boundary, maximum eaves height should be no higher than 3m to be permitted development.

I'm thinking about this now that the blinds are up! A lot of the electric blind kits Ive seen are actually battery powered with a charge needed every 3-6months (allegedly)

You don't need architect plans for that job. Just bear in mind PD limits for eaves and ridge heights of your porch (i presume flat roof anyway?) Save your architect money and put it into insulating the garage as much as you can

Solicitor at their cost. Put your objection in, with a caveat saying it will be removed if the developer can agree a legally binding undertaking

Don't seal! Paint with watered down non-vinyl emulsion e.g. contract matt or specific paint for new plaster. MacPherson Eclipse is a good start

Are you going to be on site managing the project making sure everyone is doing what they should be doing every day? If so the the open book or managing subbies yourself can work, but otherwise the costs can run away and you can end up paying for phantom labour!

Where the old dining/kitchen wall is being replaced by a steel, you will want a "nib" or brick pier to support the steel. You can engineer this out, but obviously cost more and you need to clear about it from the start

Permitted development is always based on the original house, but I'm not sure that the house would have originally be designed with an internal kitchen, so you have to be sure that the house hasn't already been extended

Definitely tank it. Doesn't matter which system, they are all basically liquid rubber. Get a kit which comes with the tape, which you need for corners and joins.