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About bassanclan

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  1. Grey ct1. Also stocked in a lot of TP or plenty of places online
  2. You can use CT1 instead of silicone. It is very tricky and takes a lot of time to make it look good, but it will stand the test of time, but white discolours and I've had similar with clear before.
  3. 4/5 a day, I pay £130 a day cash, labour only
  4. Before you use the window as your starting point you really should take some measurements around the room and see if t will work. Also are you going to fully tile all walls or have some half height? I always do some half height and then full walls around baths/showers as it can be a bit oppressive as fully tiled (and it saves tiles), but that's personal preference.
  5. I always start marking out from the windowsill height. If you have any sense any boxing in etc is set at the same height as you windowsill and follows round, so a whole tile(s) goes below the windowsill, then a cut to the floor. With staggered vertical joints there would be a half tile. Spend a bit of time laying it right out now and it will save you a lot of messing about later
  6. There are thin stone resin ones available I'm sure
  7. I bought a pearlstone tray (ebay) as it was the only one available in the 1000x1000 size I wanted at the time. I think there would be nothing wrong with it if fitted to a solid base eg concrete. I had in on legs and it bowed and eventually cracked - lasted about 15 months! Personally I would go for stone resin, which is what has replaced it- a bit more money, but worth it in the long run. If you need it raised off the floor, don't bother with the leg systems, build a solid base out of 4x2 and WPB ply. Kohler and Bette do steel trays, but never tried them. Whatever you go for check it the day it arrives for flatness and store it flat.
  8. The roofing membrane should definitely direct water out of the building, upload the actual drawing and we will see.
  9. Personally I prefer the look of a wrought iron type gate. A solid gate may appear less "friendly" or welcoming, however I do see the benefit of preventing nosy parkers from looking in. However a potential burglar will get over either. I don't think an always partially open gate is sensible, but certainly openable via intercom etc. You could consider a seperate pedestrian gate, but far better to have an intercom to allow deliver drivers entry.
  10. I know at the minute you don't like the look of the roof, but you will not notice it. At the minute you are looking at the roof, but you genuinely don't examine the roof so much once you are in. There is also the consideration that by removing the end slates now they won't be as well fixed as if they had been fixed in your preferred way from the start. Give your roofers a break and accept it "as is" There are much better things to spend your money on, even if you have a fixes price you end up paying for it one way or another.
  11. You can't really tell what the root of the problem is until you get a few tiles up and see if the floor is actually moving
  12. If water gets past the grout/tiles, it runs down the tanking membrane and onto the tanking tape which is lapped onto the bath/shower tray, thus directing the water back into the tray rather than the board behind getting wetter and wetter until it eventually shows on your celing below
  13. If pantry, utility and cloaks are all extensions then @DevilDamois 100% right and this is not PD. His drawing above makes your PD rights clear. Doesn't mean it will be turned down if you apply.
  14. If the plan was altered slightly to ensure the left hand kitchen wall goes straight back at 90 degrees to the pantry then the plan will most definitely NOT be a wraparound extension. The width of the building has only been increased where that small kink has been put in and has led to a minor overstepping of PD. Assuming the existing property has not already been extended then the key measurement is the distance from the pantry to the back wall of the kitchen. If it is under 6m (and the right hand wall is straightened) then it will fall under PD as @Mr Punter says. You could if you wished apply for a certificate of lawfulness, which would give a future buyer certainty, but this can also be insured against during conveyancing.
  15. I imagine the roofer will want code 3 lead for the soakers and code 4 for the cover flashing