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dpmiller

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Everything posted by dpmiller

  1. where's NI on the list?
  2. Oops, you're quite correct. Dunno where I got that from?
  3. break into one of the sensor wires and add a pot?
  4. I knew I'd seen it posted somewhere- this is the new all-singing offering from ESP. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-15kW-Air-Source-Heat-Pump-water-heaters-to-replace-Gas-Oil-Boilers-RRP-3-500/112543653959?hash=item1a341fe047:g:r2EAAOSwqhBZpHs1
  5. Either will work for you but the 90deg ones are needed for Agas AFAIK
  6. All but the very cheapest TF quotes I've got have been for 400 centres inside and out.
  7. Billy is SO much better than the old MFI bookcases of the past, really nice real veneer.
  8. CPC's cheap RJ45s are great too, never had a problem with them. http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-power/sh-8-007/plug-5e-pack-10/dp/CN11343
  9. NO! they're 3-32v dc input. You need the 240v variety http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-AC-70-280V-240-280V-10A-4-Screw-Terminal-One-Phase-SSR-Solid-State-Relay/121749029973?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 or similar
  10. nah, keep it connected and keep banging it in until the trip goes ..but best not hold onto it to start with...
  11. "all site equipment will be running on transformers" Umm, no, can't guarantee that.
  12. do you really need 16A? Oh, and do you only need one of these? I think some of the MVHR brands have multiple-in interface boxes.
  13. Not a con, but I'm not personally convinced it's *just* as good as it seems.
  14. If you want remote control, the Integra Solar needs no wiring whereas Keylite's electric option is like the "basic" Integra needing mains power.
  15. Never mind the G3 side of things what about looking at is purely as a pressure vessel? Domestic is different to industrial but still...
  16. you can get chinesium USB endoscopes with long cables. like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-5-8mm-Android-USB-TYPE-C-Endoscope-Borescope-Snake-Inspection-Camera-Scope-/192192521364?var=&hash=item2cbf912494:m:mI6D1kClCUQM7YGrLnf-IIQ
  17. Try replacing the nut but I'd reckon you'll need to replace the complete hose. When a nut goes off-square like that the threads are buggered.
  18. An expansion vessel is NOT equivalent to a safety valve. What happens when the bladder fails? Me, I'd be removing that brass bung and getting at least a safety valve but better a T&PRV in there.
  19. You'll want a "Loftbox" and here's a really good price: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hellermanntyton-8-Way-Loft-box-Home-Distribution-Unit-New-/162679742488?
  20. If you really must have an electric, we've had a Mira Advance for some years now which replaced a basic Redring non-thermostatic. I'd heartily recommend the thermostatic option any day of the week, the Mira is rock steady on temp regardless of what happens elsewhere in the house and automatically steps down in power consumption based on your flow and temp requirements vs. CW temp, when it can.
  21. If you're 1.5 storey are you sure it'll be attic trusses? Or are you just room-in-roof? Ours is a true 1.5 and will use a combo of collar and tophat+ cut sections.
  22. what is your mains pressure/ flow like?
  23. Have you tried anyone this side of the Irish Sea? Most if not all undertake projects on the Mainland. I've been comparing systems and quotes and for us there's one supplier in particular I like the look of- the frame spec is a match for the best, but their wall buildup is 0.15u factory closed panel and the pricing very attractive. http://www.leadontimberframe.com/
  24. Wavin don't have a problem with compression onto Hep2o. There is a preference for copper olives and you must of course use an insert but it's all discussed in their Installer Guide.
  25. you shouldn't be using the TRVs for balance, just the lockshields and if they're not shutting down that certainly needs attending to firstoff.
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