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Found 27 results

  1. Hi All, The plumbers put in our UVC cylinder yesterday. I have raised a few things I spotted with the main contractor and he was getting in contact with the plumber. Could those of you with more experienced eyes please have a glance at my picture and let me know anything else that needs to be rectified. What I've noticed/questioned. 1. There is no tundish fitted and the over temp valve discharges via some 16mm pipework over a long distance to a hidden pipe into the main waste water system. 2. Does the tank require an overpressure valve on the cold feed? There is one on the cold main entering the house. 3. Does the tank require a thermostatic mixing valve? 4. Is it safe to have a switchable valve on the expansion vessel? Thanks in advance.
  2. Hi folks doing the bathroom out upstairs only loo and sink in there at the mo so having a bath fitted with a mixer type shower now the room been made bigger . questions is can the bath be 15mm or does it have to be 22mm for flow rate etc. We have a new combi boiler fitted now. So hot tanks gone. Regards Jason.
  3. Hi all hopefully some one can help? Doing my kitchen out all the plaster is off the walls .The internal wall were the radiator is going had the old pipes running down the the wall which looked naff.so my question is can I chase out some of the brick out to allow the 15mm copper to run internally behind green plaster board?.If so is it best to lag the pipe so to reduce possible condensation causing issues ? Many thanks in advance Jason.
  4. Quooker tap fitted, wife went to try it and it leaked. Come on, tell me this isn't normal work of a plumber. Circled what I believe is the culprit...
  5. Can I just confirm how to clean out the plug on the left ... it is my shaving sink so has hair and bits in it. I have done the trap Ok. Do I just pull it off where the black ban’ is (o ring?) with a catching bowl below, or is there a trick to this? I am the world’s original plumbing hater. Ferdinand
  6. Hello - just moved into new house and struggling to make sense of an underfloor heating system. Excuse the really basic questions. We've tinkered with the controllers (HeatMiser Slimline RF) and we think we should have heating on. The displays are active and showing the room temperatures and the little flame icon is appearing. But... the floor remains chilly. There are three zones - living area, kitchen, and a utility room. The plumbing set up is in the below photo, with my rather clueless questions / observations added. Could somebody advise me on what I should be looking for / changing before I call in an expert? https://photos.app.goo.gl/LLV8GRAFUkN3A1379 Many thanks Richard
  7. Where do I need a slab penetration for a stack? I have this cluster of waste appliances (see diagram). Can I use a single stack for eveything or do I need multiple? And if so, where should it go? I have read Part H but I am still working out how things are implemented in practice. I suspect there is much wrong with this guess:
  8. Can I run waste pipes (such as from a washbasin or sink) through the wooden I-beams of my exterior wall, which will later be filled with blown-cellulose insulation (Warmcel)? (I know its OK for water pipes. And only use a continuous pipe runs, so there are no inaccessible joints.)
  9. Anybody recommend where/how I could draw a decent plumbing schematic drawing? I have a few queries I want advice on from the plumbing wizards on here but would prefer to furnish my post with a nice drawing/picture for clarity.
  10. Hi everyone. New to the group and was hoping for some advise. I have a JG underfloor heating system installed under my kitchen and through to a downstairs toilet where the pump and manifold are fitted. In the loft above the toilet run the 25mm flow and return direct from the boiler. Can I tee into these to supply the ufh? I have a cable run in from this (ufh thermostat)to the controller in the airing cupboard which I was hoping to link across the heating switch?? Sorry if this is vague or my terminology is not very good. Any advise appreciated. Thanks in advance
  11. Hi everyone. New to the group and was hoping for some advise. I have a JG underfloor heating system installed under my kitchen and through to a downstairs toilet where the pump and manifold are fitted. In the loft above the toilet run the 25mm flow and return direct from the boiler. Can I tee into these to supply the ufh? I have a cable run in from this (ufh thermostat)to the controller in the airing cupboard which I was hoping to link across the heating switch?? Sorry if this is vague or my terminology is not very good. Any advise appreciated. Thanks in advance
  12. I'd like to run the slightly vague ideas I have past the forum-mind: How do you bring in mains water through your wall(s) and up through the slab? My hazy idea is that I run the blue alkathene through a suitably lintelled hole in my (solid, 215mm) wall, sleaved in 110mm soil pipe that is in turn surrounded by 'pea gravel'. Then presumably the alkathene is directed up through the slab to a stopcock (under the kitchen sink in our case, just the other side of the wall). Does the pipe run un-sleeved up through the slab concrete? How is airtightness maintained? I'm a bit clueless here, all info gratefully accepted.
  13. Hi all, I’ve almost finished practically rebuilding a house (kept just the original outside walls!), but I can’t seem to get a definitive answer on whether I need to bond to earth the copper mains incoming water supply when after the stop cock “everything” is plumbed in plastic. There’s a very interesting thread here and in the published document, but it assumes the incoming mains water is in plastic. No where can I find an answer for my scenario, which I’m very surprised some others haven’t got. If it wasn’t all the way over the other side of the house, I’d just put an earth cable in place just in case when it’s inspected they want one, but I can’t bring myself to waste £30 on a redundant bit of cable. Plus I want it all done perfect! My OCD can’t handle a cable being left there for no reason! My head BTW says it would be totally pointless to bond effectively just the stop cock to earth, but regs don’t always seem to make complete sense! cheers Jody
  14. Hi all, I'm about to start an extension to our house and wanted to get your views on water conditioners and if they work? I don't want to use a softener as the quantity of salt may have an adverse affect to health - a number of health professionals have said that this may impact blood pressure and possibly diabetes as well. The scientific evidence on this is lacking, but either way it's not going to help! My builder has an Aquabion in his house and swears by it (he's not selling it to me). Did say that you still get hard water stains but easily wiped away. He's had it for almost 2 years now. Anyone else have any other experiences? I've gone through the long thread from 'richi' and the responses from Halcyon and 'Lizzie' but not sure if I should take the plunge.
  15. Our site has main drainage and I was considering building a small shed to house a toilet and sink, instead of the ubiquitous blue turd-is. Any hints, tips and wise words on how I plumb in a toilet to the existing drainage on a temporary basis? The proposed shed will be about 5m from the nearest inspection chamber on the plot and about 600mm above the invert level.
  16. Been quite a bit of discussion about plumbing layouts and using manifolds recently and on the back of this I need to run four 10mm pipes to two bathrooms to feed the toilet and basins. The distances involved are approx 15m and 21m to each bathroom , one bathroom will be used by our son when home from uni and then hopefully he will be moving out🙏 and the other will be for guests. I am not overly bothered about the toilet pipes but is the distance for the 10mm pipes to the basins overly long or will people just have to be patient? TIA
  17. Of getting someone to commision a boiler/ufh system when it is already installed but not commissioned or pressure tested. So much for having plumbers I can rely on. They installed the boiler and ufh control last week. Everything was supposed to be finished by last Friday but unfortunately it wasn't. They left at 8pm last Friday with promises to come back today (Thursday) to complete. Couldn't get before then because of other promised work. Message at lunchtime today to say that they couldn't make it but 'should' be able to come next Thursday or Friday. The week after next, one is going away for the week (and the van is his). Absolutely fed up with this now. I should have been able to move in next week.
  18. Hi there - newbie here and apologies if I am repeating and reviving a discussion that's been done to death. Just about to start the first fix plumbing in an MBC passive house with the smart ply air tight board on the twin stud walls. I am impressing on everyone the need to not compromise the airtight layer and wondering what the best approach is going to be with clipping pipes (and cables) on the walls in the service void to avoid holes in the air tight board. If indeed we need to worry - presumably if we have neatly seated screws in each hole the sealing is pretty effective and screws ups should be redone with holes taped? Any suggestions gratefully received.
  19. The last fixed price job I had done here ended up costing me over £500 a day (for joinery) as I clearly didn’t understand how long something would take and he seemed to capitalise on that. So with that in mind I’m keen to understand roughly how long things should take when I attempt to get someone out here. I need to get a plumber out to fix various things left over from my plumbing disasters in this house. This is what needs doing in the bathrooms: 1. Maintenance of 6 cisterns. I’m not sure what’s wrong with these other than none of them work properly. Mostly when you press them the water continues to run afterwards until you stop it. I’m not sure if they all just need adjusting or they are all faulty. @PeterW thought they were these: https://www.plumbnation.co.uk/site/abacus-direct-easi-plan-wall-mounted-1180mm-wc-frame/ If I could turn the clock back I would buy Gerberit but too late now and hindsight is a wonderful thing. So assume they just need to be adjusted for now. 2. Replace a tower shower with a new one. I’m hoping that the new unit will just go directly where the old one was so no tiling issues to worry about. 3. Fit a shower. The plumbing has been done and a bar shower was fitted there previously. It just needs a new one installed. It’s a surface mounted one, nothing needs to be done behind tiles I hope. Just looking for a rough idea of labour time please. I was thinking that it might take a couple of days so a max of £500?
  20. Trying to sort out how much I still have to do before I let my plasters in. Have no plumbing done as yet but wondering how much first fix needs done. House is a bungalow and all block walls not a stud in sight. I have 3 showers, a bath and basin with wall mounted taps so my thought is this is the only pipe that needs to go in now. How does this get done in plastic with no joints, do I end up with coils of pipe until later? BCO has already said he wants pipe work sandwiched in floor insulation but obviously I don't want plasters tramping over that constantly. Am I missing something blindingly obvious?
  21. Hi, if anyone can help that would be great. My shower has always had a small small leak but never bothered me as was the odd drip every now and the. Recently it’s began gushing water. It was fitted 2 years back and one of the parts seemed odd then, and now it’s were the water is coming from. I’m wondering if they’ve fitted it the wrong way round, as it seems the gap would be to release water back into the shower and not out of it. I’ve added photos if any plumbers can have a look and let me know that’d be great. I’ve taken the top one off to take a photo, the gap faces outside the shower on both top and bottom. Also, the caulk is what I’ve done when trying to stop the leak, yes it’s crap haha. thanks phil
  22. This is slightly off topic, but we are technically "self-building". I am involved in moving a (Crossfit) gym into a new unit. This is a photo of the unit pre-fit-out, and we will be having the far end in the pic when a wall has been built across. The left hand side is the front. Dimensions of our unit are 30m front to back by 18m side to side, giving a 5800 sqft rectangular space, with loos, showers, and changing rooms on the right hand side in this view. The eaves height is about 5m, and the apex height is about 9m. The facility will run potentially from 6am to 11pm six days a week plus special events on Sundays. The walls will be painted grey to a height of ~4.5m. The issue that I have got is a pair of normal self-build elephants that have appeared out of thin air at zero notice and are now standing on my foot, and I have a very few days to decide how to deal with it, and there is not very much in the budget - but what is needed will be found. Basic heating is gas and will be staying. Electrics are generally not an issue as Crossfit does not usually involve machines with power supplies. 1 - I need to replace the lights. The cable is staying in place. 2 - I need to run a water supply from the LHS where the new metered supply comes in to the changing rooms and showers. Water heating will be electric at the shower. Lighting For 1, which I think is the more straightforward, it is a case of rapidly sourcing the right LED lights for a gym lit from that height, getting them and probably paying the LLs refurbishment contractors to replace them when they take the old ones down to avoid messing about with big scaffold towers. Plus a need to think about certification if required. Can anyone advise me on light intensity, types and perhaps colour of light (warm or cool white?), and perhaps recommend a source? Water pipes etc For 2, it seems to me that I can run the water supply high or low, exposed or hidden. I need to decide: 2a - Type and size of pipe. I think I want plastic (JG Speedfit?) on a 100m reel, or perhaps 2x50m for ease of handling, so it is in one or two lengths only. 2b - High or low? Hidden or concealed? If I am running it at ground level (and therefore round at least one or two doors depending on which way we go) it will need protecting, perhaps by the type of plastic boxing in which was pointed out by I think @Onoff some time ago for bathrooms. I think that is complicated, and more expensive, but if I did it I would probably also run a pipe and conduit in tandem in the other protected space in the boxing-in product so I can get electricity anywhere later round the walls. I think I prefer to run it at perhaps 3-3.5m to go above doors and nto have things dropped on it, but not be stupidly high for ease of installation, and to leave it exposed so that any leaks or damage become immediately obvious. For wallball exercise spots we would need to install facing boards over the pipe. Not a problem. 2c - Do I need an accumulator or similar? We will be having 2 showers, with potentially one or two extra later, but if we grow to need them we will have more money to spend. Wrap-Up 3 - Have I missed anything? I would welcome comments on any of the above, perhaps especially from known gym users such as @Onoff and @jack or relevant pros. Any advice from anyone would be most welcome. Cheers Ferdinand
  23. Trying to get our current house ready for spring 2018. The plumbing is dire. SWMBO and I spent so much time when we were at home after formal working hours preparing for the next bit of work, that we simply ignored all sorts of DIY stuff. But now we (what do I mean 'we' - I ) need to get a grip of it all. A clanking heating system, weeping this that and the other. The end in mind? Bring the house plumbing up to a standard which would allow us to rent it out. And to do that in an affordable, and safe way. My plumbing skills are sub-prime. Nugatory. Negative. As usual I turn to YooChube for help. And, then I realise that I need to practice. A bit like @jamiehamy did here. So I need to get some bits and bobs together on which to practice I think I can guess some of the things I'll need to work on Hep2O and copper systems. And I think I'll start with joining bits of copper pipe. Any advice? Dos don'ts? Any good YT resources you've used? All help welcomed.....
  24. Hi, Very basic question: I've been fitting new innards to my cisterns to replace the old ball & cock valves with a dual flush system that has a built in overflow. Going fine so far but ran into a problem adding a valve to the cold water inlet on one of them. I've decided to add a valve by using the one built into a flexihose. I cut the copper pipe to size and used steel wool to clean off the paint. But....I've gone through 3 olives now and think I've squished the end of the copper pipe a bit at this stage try to get a good seal that doesn't leak. My latest attempt used additional PTFE at the head of the pipe just in front of the Olive but it's still weeping very slightly. Any further tightening just kinks the nut at a wierd angle. What are my options at this point to get a good seal? Replace part of the copper pipe? Last thing I want is for this thing to blow when I'm away for a few days! Thanks!
  25. CC45

    Airtightness

    Evening all, Been getting on with some first fit plumbing in the four dormers. This is complicated by the fact that below the floors is outside (well some insulation and then outside) - so pipe work needs to go through the timber frame before going downstairs. See pic. I've got two challenges - soldering whilst not melting anything - including the airtight patch that will go over each pipe. The pipes extend below the floor so its tricky work - I cant just solder and then slide them in. Hope my explanation is ok! My thoughts are: 1. Cut the pipes shorter so I can solder the elbows on away from the frame and then connect the drops. Downside is an extra joint. 2. Use a pushfit elbow - I would need to widen the gap in the timber frame. Not too hard to do but another joint and not too sure on how to seal it. 3. Prob my fav. Cut the hole in the floor boards bigger. Slide pipe away from frame and the airtight patch by say 2", solder, cool down the joint & slide back in. Patch the floor. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Cheers Cc