dpmiller

Having watched a number of youtube videos of defrost cycles, I'd say that a heat cycle of 10mins is waay too long and no more than a minute or two of heating should suffice. @JSHarris have you ever watches the defrost to see how much heat is actually needed?

older weather comp controllers for oil aren't much more than an Optimum Start device AFAIK.

Does your ASHP do weather comp?

so did Kingspan change their specification over the weekend?

We have an Arrow T59 insulated stapler for jobs like this.

these guys do small underground *and* freestanding units https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HYDRA-ST3-70L-Grease-Trap-Low-Commercial-Use-470mm-L-x-470mm-B-x-475m-H-/272715158658

0.5mm 2-core flex ought to do it nicely, or whatever you have. Cat 5 even. The resistance of the NTC sensor will be massive compared to whatever you use and there's practically no current flowing...

As long as there's no massive step-change in daily weather, the normal adaptive turn-on based on historic rate-of-rise should be plenty to look after the seasonal changes for the average system. Likewise approaching setpoint ther's plenty of fuzzylogic/ PID controllers around. In fact, I wonder if anyone has ever attempted to use a standard DIN panelmount controller for room or whole-house control; they generally have a pretty smart Autotune PID system that will sort the parameters during the first heatup and overshoot cycle...

need to force the hysteresis then of that accelerator resistor in the old mechanical stats. Could you put a small resistor across the OP to cheat some heat into the 'stat? Another option for those that don't have great control of the flow temp might be one of the cheapo Chinese touchscreen stats w/ floor sensor- set the floor limit low and it'll override the room setpoint once the heat is into the slab.

@Nickfromwales try looking inside the 'stat and see if you can move the accelerator resistor (heater) closer to the bi-metal...

there's two types- the coarse thread is for sheet metal, but there's a fine thread especially for thick mild steel: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-5-5-x-100mm-TEK-CORRUGATED-ROOFING-SCREW-HEAVY-STEEL-SELF-DRILLING/221102445632?hash=item337abb9440:m:mi53nBNcz4ub73afwYgp3Zg

I acquired a Brita tap a couple of years back, to supply filtered water to the bean-to-cup. It came without any Brita gubbins- which suited fine as I didn't want tied into a specific cartridge. Our water here (and in most of NI) is pretty soft but does drop a clayish particulate out forming a thin hard scale in autoclaves and blocking the sediment filters in the lab RO systems for example. So I'm running through a 5u PP sediment filter and a CTO which cleans it up without making it too "pure".

just done the update. It's been slowly improving over the last year or so, to me. I'll be interested to see how this goes but it certainly looks "cleaner" on the outside.

Best not to use silicone spray on door seals, it can dry out the foamed rubber used. The right stuff is the wonderful Gummi-Pfledge.

Heartiest congratulations! It looks super, I'm *very* jealous.

/ missed your links up above dave, sorry.

If in doubt ask the manufacturer https://www.auto-roll.com/sites/default/files/pdfs/AUTOROLL_DOOR_FITTING_INSTRUCTIONS.pdf

looks like there are two controls on the motor- the blue bits- and I'd take a punt that they are the limit switches.

I've one sitting doing nothing at the moment. Something to add to the forum loan scheme?

All depends on whether the floor is constructed on-site or instead as factory-built cassettes I think. With cassettes the airtightness is lapped round the outside of the floor module before being craned in?

noted

So if you don't use'em what'll you do with the ASHPs?

I'll put a vote in for a Turkington boiler as I've been well impressed with ours (and they don't use a Riello burner, I hate them) and I see they have a system variant now: http://www.turco.co.uk/countrymanpros---outdoor-system-boiler

Woohoo! Consent to Discharge approved!

Best thing I ever did was acquire a couple of XRP lithium batteries for the Dewalts, they're very long-lasting and pretty light too. Bought both as faulty- one had a broken weld inside the pack(easy fix), the other was discharged far enough that the protection circuit "switched it off" and the normal charger would ignore it. Put a DC power source directly onto each cell for a moment and it then accepted a charge and hasn't looked back.