dpmiller

@Nickfromwales try looking inside the 'stat and see if you can move the accelerator resistor (heater) closer to the bi-metal...

there's two types- the coarse thread is for sheet metal, but there's a fine thread especially for thick mild steel: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-5-5-x-100mm-TEK-CORRUGATED-ROOFING-SCREW-HEAVY-STEEL-SELF-DRILLING/221102445632?hash=item337abb9440:m:mi53nBNcz4ub73afwYgp3Zg

I acquired a Brita tap a couple of years back, to supply filtered water to the bean-to-cup. It came without any Brita gubbins- which suited fine as I didn't want tied into a specific cartridge. Our water here (and in most of NI) is pretty soft but does drop a clayish particulate out forming a thin hard scale in autoclaves and blocking the sediment filters in the lab RO systems for example. So I'm running through a 5u PP sediment filter and a CTO which cleans it up without making it too "pure".

just done the update. It's been slowly improving over the last year or so, to me. I'll be interested to see how this goes but it certainly looks "cleaner" on the outside.

Best not to use silicone spray on door seals, it can dry out the foamed rubber used. The right stuff is the wonderful Gummi-Pfledge.

Heartiest congratulations! It looks super, I'm *very* jealous.

/ missed your links up above dave, sorry.

If in doubt ask the manufacturer https://www.auto-roll.com/sites/default/files/pdfs/AUTOROLL_DOOR_FITTING_INSTRUCTIONS.pdf

looks like there are two controls on the motor- the blue bits- and I'd take a punt that they are the limit switches.

I've one sitting doing nothing at the moment. Something to add to the forum loan scheme?

All depends on whether the floor is constructed on-site or instead as factory-built cassettes I think. With cassettes the airtightness is lapped round the outside of the floor module before being craned in?

noted

So if you don't use'em what'll you do with the ASHPs?

I'll put a vote in for a Turkington boiler as I've been well impressed with ours (and they don't use a Riello burner, I hate them) and I see they have a system variant now: http://www.turco.co.uk/countrymanpros---outdoor-system-boiler

Woohoo! Consent to Discharge approved!

Best thing I ever did was acquire a couple of XRP lithium batteries for the Dewalts, they're very long-lasting and pretty light too. Bought both as faulty- one had a broken weld inside the pack(easy fix), the other was discharged far enough that the protection circuit "switched it off" and the normal charger would ignore it. Put a DC power source directly onto each cell for a moment and it then accepted a charge and hasn't looked back.

/if they're done right.

When I was looking for my TD021 (7.2v mini impact driver, superb tool) the cheapest was the german site Alternate.

Can't see why you shouldn't parallel the SSR outputs in this scenario. In power switching you wouldn't want it as the vague turn-on time would mean that ONE device was handling all the inrush before the others caught up. But in this situation it's irrelevant, the only issue might be trying to diagnose which one was short if there was a failure..

green or blue?

or pour off what you can then leave open to air-dry?

On my quote from MBC, frame and founds are two very separate prices.

Ah yes, the AA variant. Gotcha. Still well worth pointing out how important it is to confirm the input as 3-32dc is much more common. Oh and an anecdote from me- those Fotek relays are crap. By various means I've had a number of them recently and the failure rate (either DOA or at well under rated load) is near 50%. Baseplate feels like chromed plastic, really light. Those blue labelled ones (and I've seen'em with a couple of different brands) are much more heavily built and I'm yet to have an early life failure.

is that shower actually thermostatic?

racking? https://www.rackzone.ie/workbench/industrial-work-bench-1850x900x800