Dee J

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About Dee J

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  1. Dee J

    Fascia and gutters

    Metal gutters on a sensible budget? Take a day trip to France and load up with diy store zinc gutter. A bit a knack to soldering it together, but looks excellent. The cost saving will more than cover the travel. Rolled edge zinc fascia is available too....
  2. Dee J

    Heavy man

    Lead-free plumbers solder maybe? Mostly tin, not as dense as lead, but easily obtained and worked.
  3. Dee J

    Painting steel

    If they're just straight sections then some are available galvanized off-the-shelf...
  4. Dee J

    Alu-clad french doors

    Thanks. But early days yet. Just sufficient to know that it's possible.
  5. Dee J

    Alu-clad french doors

    Thanks. Yes, double doors hinged.... but I still may have to look elsewhere to get inward opening ones....
  6. Dee J

    Alu-clad french doors

    Keen to see the answer on this. Will be needing a couple of sets myself. That rationel link doesn't seem to have what Id think of as french windows/doors... ie a pair of hinged glazed doors....
  7. So our build probably can't qualify as a passive house.... aspect and glazing area don't fit. But it has been suggested that the Passive house planning package might well aid us in speccing insulation, heating etc even so, rather than SAP. What have other folk used for designing a highly insulated airtight house? Thanks Dee
  8. Dee J

    Remedial work to badly fitted lights

    Yes. Assuming the wiring format and circuit protection are ok. I.e the two lower sockets are on a ring circuit protected at 32Amps or less or a radial circuit protected at 20 Amps or less. Your new socket becomes a spur to one of the lower sockets.
  9. Dee J

    25mm, an opportunity or a problem?

    In older designs there'd be eaves and ridge vents, and that 25mm between insulation and sarking felt would be ventilated. But if that 25mm is within the sealed envelope then by all means fill it with insulation. But don't cut down too much on the overlaying insulation. The rafters need a good cover to reduce cold bridging...
  10. Hmm. My suspicions exactly. Although I have found usa references to fitting blockwork over vertical conduit runs ( electrician working on site with block-layers)... I can't find much uk data.
  11. Just a point to ponder... Many commercial buildings I visit have exposed blockwork walls inside (gyms, galleries, studios etc). Either painted or some nicer facing blockwork. Often these have flush electrical accessories. So the electrical services must either be a)on the other face of the wall, b)between the skins of a cavity wall c)threaded up through hollow blocks or d)the 'exposed blockwork' is actually a fake cladding. Anybody got any experience of this... (c) especially? Where there is no clear delineation of wall construction/first fix... do the block layers thread flexi conduit in as they go? And how common are hollow blocks in this sort of setting? And are they often infilled afterwards? Thanks.
  12. Dee J

    what comes 1st?

    Full height wall both sides of the stairs? Prefabricated staircase or in situ build? Cant see that you'd manage to slot a prefabricated staircase between two plasterboard walls without damage....
  13. Tend to find with these domestic systems that once you exceed a handful of units the incidence of problems, mis triggering, low batteries and similar tend to become really a nuisance. I wonder if a commercial system, with centralised battery and control might not be a better option.
  14. I think if you're making anything big enough to act as a useful cupboard, that will challenge the wall structure considerably. It's almost like creating a doorway. And given the lack of foundations in these old structures, how the transferred load acts is difficult to predict. On a smaller scale, creating a tiny alcove in our rubble stone house produced an egg-timer effect which seemed like that the entire house would fall out of the tiny hole! Interesting challenge to work with these old structures!
  15. Anybody understand part K enough to say if there is a required thickness of handrail for a domestic building? Background...Trying to finish off our existing house prior to the hoped new-build. We've got a narrow staircase in a part of the building not yet signed off by bc. We've never had a handrail fitted. It's only eleven risers, with the first six treads forming a 180 degree turn. Looking to fit the minimum required handrail around the outer side of the curve. Also, as far as I can interpret, the first two steps need no rail. The only dimensioned diagram 1.13 seems to reference para 1.36 for non domestic. Why am I questioning this? It would fit the look of the stairs better to have a skinny 25mm metal rail than the usually supplied thicker ones. Do you think this will cause problems? Thanks Dee