markc

Hi ya mate, how shallow is shallow? as it’s the small gate you don’t need a lot of depth as long as the ground I’d hard which I believe you mentioned digging through slate which would be good

No idea of makes, one was from Wickes, another from Plumb Base. Admittedly it is a tight radius so there is some stress on the spiral winding but still surprised to see .. Smell them fail. I have now resorted to wrapping with Denso Tape

Flexible wastes when used at 90 degrees don’t last long (unless someone knows of a particular on that does). I’ve had 3 split in my garage now in 4 years. awaits Pocster comment ……

Sounds like you are in a better position than many on here, I can’t offer any suggestions but I’m sure someone will be able to

Hello and welcome, where in the world are you building? This affects supply. Also there are loads of people struggling to get supplies at the moment, the demand has rocketed while supplies are down due to covid

I reckon there are far too many variables to have a generic list. your own requirements and expectations, how much work you are doing yourself etc. Type of build, size, location, time of year - these all affect the programme of works. then there is the specialist suppliers, windows, doors etc. Whose lead times can vary widely.

Yes you can take out insurance and continue yourself. they may ask for details of why the contractor walked out … was it something todo with the work already done, possible complications etc.

Good afternoon and welcome

Hi @zoothorn 6x6 is more than enough for your needs. Most gate problems are due to the way the posts are set as opposed to their size.

If you work on 1 day per millimetre for the first 50 and then 2 days per millimetre for additional you won’t be far off.

Although a rad can be heavy, its mass is close to the wall and the fixings are predominantly in shear. Had you been fixing shelf brackets that put the fixings more in tension then things can get messy ... and broken when they hit the floor. P.S. tall `designer` rads look like climbing frames to kids and this becomes a whole different story for fixings.

Nothing wrong with having the extra bit on one as long as the rails match and line up on both gates. The `extra bit` is there to assist with holding wide gates up and square, on a short gate it would look out of place

Not easy to see on my phone, in that case Tony has nailed it .... figuratively speaking

is it lead?

Also I have 10 cameras shooting 24/7 in HD and uploading instantly to the cloud so their endless peering lacks value in any way, shape or form. Do any of these cameras show any of your neigbours property or what they are doing? if so, whats the difference ?

Aga is great if you are always around the house and constantly putting stuff into the ovens - amazing baked potatoes and slow cooked dishes, but they are very expensive to run if you are often away from the property. They are always burning, take days to warm up or cool down and you have to think about and plan meals in advance.

Any beam/trolley system is going to look a bit ugly - the trolley and winch need to be stowed somewhere. If pulling something up into loft, is there enough head height to cope with the winch, hook and anything hanging on it? the head height required soon adds up. Chandelier pulley is much easier, hand operated simple pulley mounted above the ceiling/in loft. If the pulley and rope remains in the loft then wire can be fed out and retrieved manually while lifting or lowering the lamp otherwise a recoil cable re-tractor would be needed.

Good morning and welcome, sounds like a great project

Oh and you dont need a resin gun, plastic or glass capsules, point of end of bar and spin in with a drill

Morning, Sounds like you are talking about shear connectors to keep the two slabs aligned. Assuming this is the case, drill a couple of mm oversize and resin in, then slid a piece of plastic tube over the other end before the pour to allow movement. But 25mm is still a very big bar.

Crane or Platform Basket Cherry Picker - many of them have the ability to change the cage for a winch that will lift 250kgs, very narrow and light so will get into tight spaces and set up on uneven and week ground etc. unlike a full size crane

My architect also wondered how the frame design accounts for the fact that it is actually screwed into the lintel (at least abusing to the installation instructions). Wouldn’t that suggest that any deflection transfers to the doorframe via the screws, regardless of how much of a gap there is between the lintel and the frame, or are the fixing points on some sort of sprung mechanism? Nothing wrong with top fixings being screwed through frame into lintel. The fixings will be a clearance in the frame and therefore allow the lintel to `bob` without loading the door frame.

Several ways to jack a structure, as above you are referring to acro props. The lifting part is the easiest, maintaining stability during the lift and taking into account high winds etc is the hard part. Definitely a spaecialist operation as a roof structure can act as a big sail once disconnected from the weight holding it down.

If the neighbours walls are well established and not cracked then its very unlikely they will do unless someone is negligent on your build. Excavate close to or under your neigbours house and there is a good chance it will fail. You have to se common sense and if something doesnt look or feel right then stop! take a step back and reassess the task.

+1 on the toughened and laminated. cant imagine it needing 17.5mm as we did loads of impact tests on the glass for railway stations and non of those were anywhere near 17mm thick