markc

Water isn’t a problem but oil, petrol etc dripping from a mower will sink straight in and become a permanent stain. Sealer doesn’t need to be anything special inside.

70mm of concrete will crack, move and take the tiles with them. playing tiles on a slope is just a case of setting levels for top and bottom and then using a straight edge to check the “level” as the tiles are laid

Nothing! Atmosphere will cause oxidation and UV can fade paint but Alu itself isn’t affected.

Hello and welcome.

You definitely don’t want concrete and no need for a laser level either. as above, good hardcore base and then lay as ordinary tiles/slabs as above.

I was concerned you had already paid, tell him you will accept £200 for the shoddy job you need to put right

Assuming your UFH is running at 25 degrees then it won’t get any higher, electric heating mats are a different matter because any covering leads to hot spots. wet UFH limits the floor temp to temp of water running through it. 25 degrees is nothing for electrics

You could just omit the legs and use standard units on small legs/packers

Omg, that’s the worst flashing I’ve ever seen, peel and stick is a cheap cheat anyway, but they could have at least fitted it correctly

Wtf, stupid auto correct. Was supposed to be Glulam of course …. Anyone know what a Glutamate is?

As above glutamate is good, web joists need stabilising laterally and torsionally. A lintel needs to be stable in its own right.

Answer to climate change is pretty simple really, 50% cut in population. I wonder how many climate activists would volunteer to do their bit.

Circular saw and spider access platform, saves all the scaffolding hassle

Really not sure what to suggest, maybe someone is doing faux cobblestone in concrete or something with a bit more grip.

I would be going through the wall and drop into the red line. Although if a sink was always going to be there then no reason UFH pipes should be in that area so you could go down but messy going through the slab and insulation etc.

I would say that’s a pretty good buildup, cobble stones could be very slippery at 15 degrees tho

As long as the design has been done then insulated raft is the easiest foundation to do.

You playing Russian roulette?

Last two kitchens I’ve installed have been before the tiles. Build cabinets and legs as if flooring was there, then I stick the units on a piece of 18mm chip or similar. I always leave end panels approx 5 mm above the finished floor to stop them soaking water up. As long as you have an idea of what the tiles will be, just allow a suitable thickness.

If I ever do an integrated washing machine again it will be on a solid concrete floor and have insulation to the sides and rear so it doesn’t vibrate the kitchen to bits when it hits the sides.

If their dormer sits on the boundary then I would look at matching the design and joining up. A different design with a gap could make your house lookout of proportion and/or a bit odd.

What is the handrail make-up? Nothing to say you have to have newel posts. The balustrade just needs to be structurally sound and do it’s job

As above, plus why use in in concrete that will be encased? Great for render or patch repairs in a concrete slab but I can’t see any benefit in ICF

Good morning and welcome, I like your way of thinking. My girlfriend says I keep ignoring possible plots because I want to build a garage with a house attached.

Just seen the pic, both of those hinges are adjustable via the threaded rod through the gate. We peasants are expected to adjust the gate by knocking the peg in further or (trying) to pull it out a bit…. This is when a cheapskate has welded big nuts onto a steel gate to act and loops on the hinges.