markc

How far to the sewer? And is it all along a road or other properties? Septic tank would be a lot cheaper

The peg does not go all the way into the post, idea is you knock it in as far as you need to level the gate. You need to dril a hole of the right size or you will never get the huge nail to go in … or it will split the post. any reason you didn’t go for screw on gate pegs?

As above, fit them yourself and you will more than likely get a better job done. I’ve seen some horrendous “accredited” fitting jobs

10-12 bags isn’t a lot. the time you spent mixing in a large drum would probably be more than batching. get yourself set up, materials close to where you are working, good mixer, pre measured water level in container etc. have a break, cup of tea and then go for it. mixabag and tip it out, straight onto next bag.

I’d go with what you have, alternatives are unlikely to warrant the work involved

Good morning, welcome to BH and good luck with the project

2ft for the small gate is plenty. And the slope across your entrance isn’t that big a deal. Get the top post in first (because that’s the one that can’t be adjusted due to ground level). Set gate in place and fit hinges, adjust to level and make sure it swings nicely. offer up other gate, and secure with packers under and braces etc. Offer up other post and dig hole to suit. Fit post to gate and concrete in.

Hi ya mate, how shallow is shallow? as it’s the small gate you don’t need a lot of depth as long as the ground I’d hard which I believe you mentioned digging through slate which would be good

No idea of makes, one was from Wickes, another from Plumb Base. Admittedly it is a tight radius so there is some stress on the spiral winding but still surprised to see .. Smell them fail. I have now resorted to wrapping with Denso Tape

Flexible wastes when used at 90 degrees don’t last long (unless someone knows of a particular on that does). I’ve had 3 split in my garage now in 4 years. awaits Pocster comment ……

Sounds like you are in a better position than many on here, I can’t offer any suggestions but I’m sure someone will be able to

Hello and welcome, where in the world are you building? This affects supply. Also there are loads of people struggling to get supplies at the moment, the demand has rocketed while supplies are down due to covid

I reckon there are far too many variables to have a generic list. your own requirements and expectations, how much work you are doing yourself etc. Type of build, size, location, time of year - these all affect the programme of works. then there is the specialist suppliers, windows, doors etc. Whose lead times can vary widely.

Yes you can take out insurance and continue yourself. they may ask for details of why the contractor walked out … was it something todo with the work already done, possible complications etc.

Good afternoon and welcome

Hi @zoothorn 6x6 is more than enough for your needs. Most gate problems are due to the way the posts are set as opposed to their size.

If you work on 1 day per millimetre for the first 50 and then 2 days per millimetre for additional you won’t be far off.

Although a rad can be heavy, its mass is close to the wall and the fixings are predominantly in shear. Had you been fixing shelf brackets that put the fixings more in tension then things can get messy ... and broken when they hit the floor. P.S. tall `designer` rads look like climbing frames to kids and this becomes a whole different story for fixings.

Nothing wrong with having the extra bit on one as long as the rails match and line up on both gates. The `extra bit` is there to assist with holding wide gates up and square, on a short gate it would look out of place

Not easy to see on my phone, in that case Tony has nailed it .... figuratively speaking

is it lead?

Also I have 10 cameras shooting 24/7 in HD and uploading instantly to the cloud so their endless peering lacks value in any way, shape or form. Do any of these cameras show any of your neigbours property or what they are doing? if so, whats the difference ?

Aga is great if you are always around the house and constantly putting stuff into the ovens - amazing baked potatoes and slow cooked dishes, but they are very expensive to run if you are often away from the property. They are always burning, take days to warm up or cool down and you have to think about and plan meals in advance.

Any beam/trolley system is going to look a bit ugly - the trolley and winch need to be stowed somewhere. If pulling something up into loft, is there enough head height to cope with the winch, hook and anything hanging on it? the head height required soon adds up. Chandelier pulley is much easier, hand operated simple pulley mounted above the ceiling/in loft. If the pulley and rope remains in the loft then wire can be fed out and retrieved manually while lifting or lowering the lamp otherwise a recoil cable re-tractor would be needed.

Good morning and welcome, sounds like a great project