markc

You could just omit the legs and use standard units on small legs/packers

Omg, that’s the worst flashing I’ve ever seen, peel and stick is a cheap cheat anyway, but they could have at least fitted it correctly

Wtf, stupid auto correct. Was supposed to be Glulam of course …. Anyone know what a Glutamate is?

As above glutamate is good, web joists need stabilising laterally and torsionally. A lintel needs to be stable in its own right.

Answer to climate change is pretty simple really, 50% cut in population. I wonder how many climate activists would volunteer to do their bit.

Circular saw and spider access platform, saves all the scaffolding hassle

Really not sure what to suggest, maybe someone is doing faux cobblestone in concrete or something with a bit more grip.

I would be going through the wall and drop into the red line. Although if a sink was always going to be there then no reason UFH pipes should be in that area so you could go down but messy going through the slab and insulation etc.

I would say that’s a pretty good buildup, cobble stones could be very slippery at 15 degrees tho

As long as the design has been done then insulated raft is the easiest foundation to do.

You playing Russian roulette?

Last two kitchens I’ve installed have been before the tiles. Build cabinets and legs as if flooring was there, then I stick the units on a piece of 18mm chip or similar. I always leave end panels approx 5 mm above the finished floor to stop them soaking water up. As long as you have an idea of what the tiles will be, just allow a suitable thickness.

If I ever do an integrated washing machine again it will be on a solid concrete floor and have insulation to the sides and rear so it doesn’t vibrate the kitchen to bits when it hits the sides.

If their dormer sits on the boundary then I would look at matching the design and joining up. A different design with a gap could make your house lookout of proportion and/or a bit odd.

What is the handrail make-up? Nothing to say you have to have newel posts. The balustrade just needs to be structurally sound and do it’s job

As above, plus why use in in concrete that will be encased? Great for render or patch repairs in a concrete slab but I can’t see any benefit in ICF

Good morning and welcome, I like your way of thinking. My girlfriend says I keep ignoring possible plots because I want to build a garage with a house attached.

Just seen the pic, both of those hinges are adjustable via the threaded rod through the gate. We peasants are expected to adjust the gate by knocking the peg in further or (trying) to pull it out a bit…. This is when a cheapskate has welded big nuts onto a steel gate to act and loops on the hinges.

How far to the sewer? And is it all along a road or other properties? Septic tank would be a lot cheaper

The peg does not go all the way into the post, idea is you knock it in as far as you need to level the gate. You need to dril a hole of the right size or you will never get the huge nail to go in … or it will split the post. any reason you didn’t go for screw on gate pegs?

As above, fit them yourself and you will more than likely get a better job done. I’ve seen some horrendous “accredited” fitting jobs

10-12 bags isn’t a lot. the time you spent mixing in a large drum would probably be more than batching. get yourself set up, materials close to where you are working, good mixer, pre measured water level in container etc. have a break, cup of tea and then go for it. mixabag and tip it out, straight onto next bag.

I’d go with what you have, alternatives are unlikely to warrant the work involved

Good morning, welcome to BH and good luck with the project

2ft for the small gate is plenty. And the slope across your entrance isn’t that big a deal. Get the top post in first (because that’s the one that can’t be adjusted due to ground level). Set gate in place and fit hinges, adjust to level and make sure it swings nicely. offer up other gate, and secure with packers under and braces etc. Offer up other post and dig hole to suit. Fit post to gate and concrete in.