markc

Is it porcelain? white or coloured plastic or stainless steel?

Looks pretty poor to me, the valley is going to be a nightmare. the missing corner would annoy me to death and the wavy battens are just poor workmanship/not caring

exactly

50mm screed on top of insulation will break up very quickly. Screed is not like concrete and even then 50mm on top of insulation is pretty week as a floor. Pillars on top of this are more likely to cause problems with the wall rather than support it.

Decent sand/cement screed is 1800kgs a cube, 75mm thick would be 135kgs/m

haha, German Engineering at its finest

@KTB just make sure it is a 16a socket on the generator, i am assuming it is but cant be 100% certain from here

@KTB thats a decent gennie, I would keep the red 3 phase plug and split your usage on the caravan. Bit of faffing but would get the best out of the generator and prevent lights diming or tv problems while using shower etc. a sparky will know what i mean. Then again as this is only temporary, just get a 16a 5 pin 3 phase plug and pick up one phase and neutral.

@Loz we had a controlled demolition to do, Asbestos cement roofing sheets, we were not allowed to pull the building over as this would shatter a lot of sheets at the same time so we were told to take them off by hand, smashing the bolts through with a hammer or breaking the sheets and sliding them down the roof to be put into a skip (covered). Take reasonable steps to minimise dust and inhalation but listen to the testing people, they know best and rarely go the scare mongering route

Caravan can be whatever you expect to run on electricity. If you have no electric heaters and only want to have lights, TV and boil a kettle occasionally then 16A is fine. Whats more important is the size of the generator KVA?

Unless it is a very small manufacturer who makes each truss individually, they should all be roughly the same (within 5mm) Trusses are designed by computer that also spits out the cutting list with all angles, They are assembled one at a time and then rolled or pressed, they are not assembled over a master.

Loads of old slated roofs done without trusses, two walls, possibly a ridge board but many without, a couple of purlins and rafters at 2 ft centres. 2x1 slate lathe on top of that and get nailing. the 600 or 400 centres are to do with the trusses themselves, not the lathes. If you get the odd springy (or a knot in the middle) lath then it is supported by the slating hook or bit of timber while nails are knocked in.

In that case you can do it in a couple of stages, i dont know of a 35 to 22 fitting.

Same way, blower will always tend to blow through the open end. Failing that ... old industrial sparkies trick, catch a rat, tie string to its tail, push it into the duct. Please dont shoot the messenger, i love animals and rats.

good point, i missed that

So not looking for a heavy traffic, heavy wheel load drive. In that case I would cap with say 4 inches of concrete over the pipe, around 12 inches wide (you could use pre cast slabs laid loose in case you ever need to get back to the pipe) then the hardcore and topping.

Is it lead?

What will the drive surface be? If it’s concrete then no problem at all as the slab will bridge the pipe run and cause no problems. If the surface will be paved or shingle etc then put a thicker cap over the pipe and you will need less hardcore in that area.

good evening and welcome, good luck with the venture and you will find a lot of useful and otherwise difficult to find information on here. Search older threads first and failing that ask away

Typical response, i wouldn't have said anything to them and the fitters would have just got on and done it. Good chance the door will not be the right size and if you then mention it you will likely get a "10mm either way makes no difference"

You definitely need it, or you could fit a couple of plastic slide pads in the slot but they will leave marks on the door as it slides past them. Take the door out and do it properly

I wouldn't worry, even if they do contain asbestos you haven't been smashing them up or cutting with a grinder etc. Although the threat of asbestos is real you have to remember there are loads of people out there who worked with the stuff, demolished buildings with no protection and many of use breathed `fresh` air with brake dust from vehicles. The main point is minimizing your exposure and being careful has done just that.

I would carefully fold up a corner to see how it breaks. I reckon you have old bitumen tiles and they are harmless.

Just re reading your post - if the opening is 8mm higher than specified, how can the door end up 8mm lower??

dont worry about it, im sure the door fitters will thank you for the extra packing room and give some wiggle room to get everything spot on.