markc

Turn it upwards, lay floor and then trim back to floor level. This way leaves the membrane with an up stand on the inside to prevent any water travelling back and under the flooring

Sanding is a crap job to do, dust id horrendous, back breaking and you need to be checking levels etc as you go. self leveling compound anyday

If using CT1 or similar then no need to screw or bolt ... assuming floor is tiled / solid. Did once see one glued to vinyl flooring.

Definitely! CT1 or similar flexible sealer/adhesive. stops rocking, creaking and breaking tiles.

go for the 140 and run 2.5mm rods, usually around 60-70A, machine will run pretty much all day and not pop a 13A fuse Assuming your 2.5mm supply cabe isnt 100m in length etc.

Hacksaw blade slid underneath .. works a treat

Morning i would use Gripfill or similar (needs to be thick and gooey). The metal plate will have holes and cut-outs etc which allow the adhesive to grab hold rather than actually bond the flat surface.

Very rare you run a welder at full capacity, i run my 140A on a 13a plug. It would only be a problem if continual blasting at 140A but in that case the welder just isnt upto it anyway.

Yes, bonding sole plates (internal) is fine and works very well

I didnt mean take the building down, just the small area that is affected. I have never come across a part Q conversion that didnt allow making good or making safe small areas. In the past we have replaced badly rusted columns, damaged roof trusses and broken back foundations without any problems.

Not sure of any difference in Scotland but in England just has to comply with fire regs, you can have twin fire doors.

The walls are of no historic significance, not listed and therefore not worth the expense and effort to stitch. The cracks look like heave or foundation failure so i would definitely be taking down, rectify the problem and re-build.

Unless your post position is fixed then get the gates first and put posts in to suit. Much easier than finding gates to fit the space needed. you can modify a standard gate by adding apiece to the bottom

Hobs can scratch but at the end of the day they are a tool, not just to look at. If you don’t use a kitchen then it’s a waste of money … like saving something for best but then never using it.

@Onoff cheers squire, that explains it nicely

@zoothorn, good morning. I agree if you want to fill a weird shaped hole then standard gates would not fill the gap completely, I was referring to bespoke gates to fit the hole. You can use standard gates by adding a fixed or hinged (upwards) triangular infill panel at the bottom to fill the open part. the shape of the gate makes no difference to the rising hinge system.

Having another look at this and didn’t see the title of the thread. Putting MEA aside I suppose the first question should be … how big will the light well be? Last one I did was 6m long, 1.2m wide and 4 metres deep so maybe we are thinking and talking about completely different animals … well features. oh, and it had handrails around the top and a pumped sump to drain

A light well by definition is usually open topped and they have been built in brick/stone and concrete for 100+ years. clay can destroy lightweight structures during swell and shrink cycles.

Gun safe should be on an internal wall, if this backs onto a hallway or other communal area then it shouldn’t pass inspection

The tough finish is achieved using 2 pack vehicle refinishing paint, also works fantastically well on Upvc and aluminium frames (with an etch primer for Alu)

As Roman said, concrete crusher run is typically 1.6t per cube depending on how much dust is in it. biggest mistake most people make with excavations is not factoring in how much expansion occurs when soil is removed. 1 cube in the ground fills almost 2 cube in a truck or skip

It is very easy to get close colour matches with paint, and even using genuine F&B two pots from different batches rarely match perfectly.

rough scaling off would imply 500mm

Good afternoon and welcome, sounds like an interesting project. Try searching the site for specific topics as most questions have already been answered, but if you still cant find anything, ask away.

why make planning easy for tight ar@$ed self builders when you can get new houses, extensions etc etc from developers