markc

INo need to be concerned, padstone getting a bit wet is fine and 6 day old concrete is no problem.

Whatever it is … very cool, I like it.

No such thing as a stupid question, wire brush on a drill would be much easier than hand. removing the plaster/render won’t affect anything structurally, if the mortar is falling out from the joints just re-point the stonework to stabilise.

Throwing stars are illegal

Congratulations! You may get away with a drain near the top of the slope to prevent water run off. the argument being that had the drive not been there, any rain landing on the existing bank would run onto the road and you have taken measure to prevent the house/site contributing

looks ok to me, and you are obviously well aware of asbestos. As you say, looks like mortar as the scratch coat ... albeit rather thick, with plaster skim on top. Wire brushing is the easiest way to clean up the stone, failing that its sandblasting r compressor and needle gun.

Does it look like sand+cement? any fibrous looking material in it? feels lighter than it looks? 60`s/70`s plaster, especially applied in thick layers could contain asbestos

Screw through the floor into whatever is underneath. once saw a flooting floor with stud wall fixed just to the upper floating part ... heavy doors played havoc with plumb and the floor

Any photos of the outside of that area, as above its unlikely to be structural but the cracks also appear rather wide for drying/settlement cracking

As above, do you know what you want to build? what shape? size? spec? materials etc.? until then you (or any other individual or company) cannot price whats in your head.

Welcome to the forum, loads of information on here

Hi and welcome, loads of information available by quick search on here, and failing that feel free to ask whatever questions you need.

Good morning and welcome

This product in particular suggests that you check the compatibility with a structural engineer as it's 8kg/m2. thats a cop-out if ever ive seen one. 8kgs is nothing in the big scheme of things - get on with it.

No problem getting them to meet regardless of the angle or length of gate etc. The fixing points to gate and posts are the same as ordinary hinges, its the hinge geometry that changes.

Yes thats the idea, If you have a local place that fabricates gates and railings etc they will be able to quickly knock up some rising hinges to suit your slope

If you are laying a duct then just put a draw rope in at the same time, that way anyone can pull in whatever cable is required

Congratulations and nice looking house

We are thinking along the same lines here

Are the services in the middle of the lane? i.e. under the tarmac. or are they on the other side? and you need to cross the lane.road.

Rising gates work ok with actuator, just not the in ground type. Push/Pull actuators are fine with rose joint ends.

+1 to this, they just take a bit of getting your head around

50mm screed is plenty thick enough for wet UFH. As for the bathroom, Electric heating mats work great, tiles can be problematic tho. I have 800mm porcelain tiles and they can curl up a bit if/when the cat decides to cook itself all day/night in one spot. several times i have stubbed my toe on a tile edge or corner only for it to be flush again the next day. In future i would go with smaller tiles.

Hi, yes there are screws available;e, one is Simpson Strong Tie. but they are not cheap. They have a small shank under the head and single thread.

Good afternoon and welcome. I think we can safely say you will be seeing and hopefully answering many questions, BH is is an "interesting" forum at times but we are all friendly and dont bite ... well most dont, or not all the time.