markc

Good afternoon and welcome, and you could have started your own thread in the new members (introduce yourself) section.

If they complain its going off too quickly on a pour of that size its so they have an excuse for any imperfections or unevenness you pick up

Looks great, Reminds me of a Pub we did, two massive douglas fir beams approx 500mm square and 6m long ... treat them like they were made of glass, white gloves etc so no finder prints, wrapped with paper before the lifting strops, over shoes while we walked across them .... came in later to finish the roof off and the Architect had a group of locals in to beat the beams with pieces of chain to distress them ... think they were old bike chains! oil, dirt and hand prints all over them

Air dried is great. Any natural beam is going to have some bends or twists. What will it be used for? will it be in tension or compression? You need to work on it continuing to more over time.

small doors really need more space to either side of them or it becomes like walking through a tunnel and very difficult if carrying anything. (if opening the door towards you, you have to back up to open the door as opposed to stepping sideways) Wider doors lend themselves to having shelves or furniture closer without causing an obstruction.

thats really good. has it been dried or still green? when was it cut? solid wood will move over time unlike a glulam beam or engineered wood (OSB etc.)

+1 on the above. Everything (almost) is possible, just depends how much money and Big Stick you are willing to throw at it.

Contact glassandstainless.com. they will point you in the right direction

Some (many new build sites) will say trusses between gable walls do not need diagonal bracing, but i have always put it in regardless

Whats going on top of the trusses? you may not need (permanent) diagonal bracing.

+1 to @PeterW reply. the beam would behave perfectly well with a point support at the very ends. As the loads are very low (no structure or floors above) then the padstones/bearing are also very lightly loaded.

Good afternoon and welcome

We had exactly the same while building Lowry Centre in Manchester, big odd shaped panes and one of our guys was spotted throwing sparks at the glass .... nightmare!

Good morning and welcome to the forum, im going to say you will not get permission to do this, but its always worth a try

Pack wherever the plate could/would deform under load. I.E under bearing / connection points,

Good afternoon and welcome, looks like an interesting project.

Letting cold air in forces the stale air into the house, install an extractor in their room, pulls warm air from the house and ejects the hot stale air.

That should be a pretty tough wall, as above give the mortar time to go off and bring the level up slowly and evenly - assume you are using a pump so work your way around and bring level up approx 1 foot at a time, this means you can be less harsh with the poking.

Difficult one as there are a lot of variables, number and type of ties, mortar mix etc. but i would be working on around 1m per pour with unsupported walls

What supply will you be connecting it to? direct in CU? what size breaker/Fuse on supply?

Shouldn't affect porcelain as they will be glazed

Agree with Nick

Power alarm as a spur from whatever circuit your fridge/freezer is on, then if power fails to the fridge the alarm will let you know.

Parge coat is a great way to have a go or start to learn plastering, can be brushed or roller but quicker and more fun to use a float

Very little heat goes down through the legs of a wood burner, i would say it broke due to load rather than heat. when someone left a pile of clothes on my bathroom floor the porcelain tile heated up so much (electric UFH) it curved up at the edges but still didnt break