markc

We were taught how to wire a plug and repair a wired fuse at school

As Prodave said, what’s supposed to be wrong with it?

Not an expansion joint, doorways are crack points. the screed will shrink and crack, while wet cut a slit at least half the depth of the screed across the door threshold. This causes the crack to form where you want it.

Octopus were fantastic when I wanted a 3 phase meter putting in. Cable was an old existing.

There was a similar thread last week regarding this. I personally can’t see the point in double slabs if the ground is good and compacted hardcore is there. bbut if I remember correctly one or moreBCO’s had wanted the sub slab

+1 to @Marvin comment

f I shorten a galvanized roofing strap will the exposed bare metal ends trigger runaway corrosion and failure within a few decades? nope! Galvanised steel is deemed self healing. You will probably find the straps have cut ends anyway. galv sheet is treated full size and then sheared to size for use when building trailers etc.

Take cost out of the equation and steel still wins hands down for this application. the skylights would require SE input for timber as well because the application / load tables do not allow for your large and presumably very heavy skylights

Perforated drainage pipe (single or twin wall) geotextile laid in bottom of excavation and up the side, clean ballast/pebbles etc. (No fines) under and covering the pipe, textile over the ballast and then backfill with anything as long as it’s not heavy clay.

Galv’d not halved ?

Too many variables to have a guide. if you cut one rafter you double the two adjacent ones. After that it gets more complicated. Even the position of the roof light/load within the rafter length has a big impact on loads.

Haha, once spent a whole day flame cutting halved steel structure … that evenings “hot and cold shakes” zincpoisioning wasn’t pleasant ?

Right, now cutting 6 rafters would put up and extra 3x load on adjacent rafters. this may require them to be made deeper, not just doubled or trebled. Plus weight of roof light itself also needs factoring in. sounds like this job could do with SE input. Cutting one rafter for a velum etc on a pitched roof is much more straightforward.

All depends on which way the joists/rafter run and which way around the roof lights are. Much more involved than just doubling

I like his style log store that doubles up as an air raid or earthquake shelter

Are you sure it’s sand? Looks more like Demarera sugar. looks too course for ordinary (red) mortar sand, maybe a local sharp sand so should be perfect for concrete or screed

Well, you learn something new everyday

If there is no gap at all then I would cut/scabble the concrete back a bit.

Glyphosphate will do it. Drill a few holes, pour it in and leave to rot.

Good morning, if you were poring highly stressed concrete or for a polished slab then I would be careful what went in the mix. as you are setting gate posts then it doesn’t matter. During the war they threw anything into concrete to pour tank traps and pill boxes etc. They are still standing and are a bitch to break up. pretty much any stones, pebbles, shingle etc will do nicely for post setting. If they are too big it makes the surface difficult to level off that’s all.

I am also tired of hearing COVID and brexit as excuses for inflated prices and supply shortages. Yes interest rates are stupidly low, yes there is far too much money around. I import construction machinery from Italy and we can now sell our machines at prices less than two years ago.

Either blocks or soil to form a bund that will hold the shingle in place

Good afternoon and welcome. +1 on the above

Just re looking/reading this. So the wall is supporting the pavement/road. does it look like the retaining wall wall built to allow the house to be built, or was the wall built solely for the purpose of supporting the roadway regardless of the house being there? do your deeds mention this boundary? if you are liable for the support of a highway then your insurance company would be the first people to contact as you cannot undertake this work yourself.

My thought …. Do nothing, allow it to fall and then Highways or local council will have to sort it out. and/or notify council that their wall is dangerous and you are concerned for you and your families safety as well as road users etc.