markc

hmmm, i was just thinking of a drive, but when does a private drive become a road? harsh and unfortunate for the ones building the 3rd property

Sounds like an excuse. Yes steel prices are up but no shortage of supply from Germany, Spain or Italy, very little British available but thats because the greenies and our government dont want dirty smelly industry spoiling our carbon promises. Cheap Chinese steel is harder to get at the moment but thats the same with most things.

Interesting questions, i would say the access was existing and therefore cannot be regarded as new even though the build would be and use would increase.

Yep! far too much easy money made available. Furlough was set too high so why work when you can stay home for almost the same, Why stay open and trading when you can stop paying rent and rates, claim a percentage of profits and cover your regulars. We have had local tree surgeons and jobbing builders walking in with tons of cash to buy machines and bragging how much they are getting for not working! ... great when first thing we get is "As suppliers to the Rail Network you will be expected to continue as normal" ... blaaa blaa blaaa so working straight through, no money for anything, no grants, still have to pay rent and rates, not seen as key workers, not allowed into supermarkets etc as key workers, no money to implement covid measures, Covid police visits every couple of weeks and its all those having to stay at home on furlough who are the real victims! arghhhh .... rant over.

If gates will only open one way then you can mount hinges on the inside or outside face to save space. If gates will swing either way then allow approx. 3 inches space between gate and post for the hinge

I nearly watched it last night, dont think ill bother now.

As above, im not aware of any specific requirements

More info? photo? Really not sure what you are wanting to know

10Kn is nothing (1ton) but I agree you should have a plate to land the truss on. Could be steel or even plastic, couple of layers of DPC etc. Truss bottom cord is plenty wide enough to give a good bearing so really just an isolating layer unless you want to include fixings in which case a steel sole plate would be the best option.

I would leave it alone and grow to hate it … more incentive to get the house built

Totally agree. ive been using arc welders on very long extension leads for years. All the above information is valid but to get back to your lad using a welder … get him one, plug it into a 13amp socket and get him welding. I doubt you will end up drawing more than 10amps with the machine set at 80-90amp and that will do you fine for most steel you will use

Dulux trade will go over most things in one coat, with white I would use anything else. but do you really want a brilliant white box to live in? and does the finish on a caravan really matter?

What’s under the office? Is it free standing or on a solid concrete base. Good insulation will keep the heat in and cold out. But without a big thermal mass it will heat up quickly and keep that heat in too.

Glue or if you have a local place that does plastic welding its even better - quite often small mororbike places have a plastic welding gun to repair fairings. If gluing, reinforce joint with a thin strip of plastic under the joints - helps when people sit on them.

yes thats a good surface for adhesive

Looks like a pretty good sound surface to me, if its reasonably flat then i would go for it

Depends how flat the screed is, if the screeders did a really good job it will be very close to level and a pretty smooth surface and would therefore be ok. Concrete pours often have tamp marks or even power floated can have humps and puddles which the adhesive cant cope with

Turn it upwards, lay floor and then trim back to floor level. This way leaves the membrane with an up stand on the inside to prevent any water travelling back and under the flooring

Sanding is a crap job to do, dust id horrendous, back breaking and you need to be checking levels etc as you go. self leveling compound anyday

If using CT1 or similar then no need to screw or bolt ... assuming floor is tiled / solid. Did once see one glued to vinyl flooring.

Definitely! CT1 or similar flexible sealer/adhesive. stops rocking, creaking and breaking tiles.

go for the 140 and run 2.5mm rods, usually around 60-70A, machine will run pretty much all day and not pop a 13A fuse Assuming your 2.5mm supply cabe isnt 100m in length etc.

Hacksaw blade slid underneath .. works a treat

Morning i would use Gripfill or similar (needs to be thick and gooey). The metal plate will have holes and cut-outs etc which allow the adhesive to grab hold rather than actually bond the flat surface.