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Loz's Achievements


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  1. I was wandering if at this point most floors are covered over so cracks aren't seen, tiler is using a quality matting - has gone for Dural as has links to the technical guy, seems the alternative to ditra mentioned above - they do seem to be the two main players. Many thanks for all replies, been really helpful
  2. Here are pictures of the cracks now repaired, the original one between the two buildings was about a 1mm and there should have been a joint there but the other new one (first picture) was less than a mm:
  3. I guess just not sure where any new cracks could appear and think would look weird to have too many just in case as not a particularly large space, just really worried now that the new crack is the start of a nightmare (not been a lucky build so far) and can't see an obvious reason why it appeared where it did and then doubled in size despite it appearing and enlarging with UFH having been off 2 weeks, I really wish someone involve din build had mentioned not to turn it above 45, the screed guy said on his system you can't physically turn it up above 40 whereas on mine goes to 65, gutted as been painful so far and not sure whether to just gamble now and go for matting and tiling and hope for best, just can't face having to rip it up at later stage especially as tiling the entire ground floor, Loz
  4. Thanks for replies, the floor was pretty much dry, the first couple of months from October there were no windows just OSB boards so was pretty damp and then probably took til February to get underfloor on, was reading 0.7/0.8 few weeks back when whacked the heating right up to try speed up last bit - thought would be bulletproof at this point. Have included plan layout of ground floor - first crack in yellow appeared after turned heating off from 65 to zero ready for tiling, may have had a lucky escape as original tiler wasn't going to use matting and maybe that was an accident waiting to happen as is the joint between the two zones and two different rooms on join between new double height extension and existing single storey. New tiler is going to line tile join up on crack and use some special joint there. the new crack comes off existing external wall no where near any entrances or stress points, may have been shallower there and also there is no under floor loops for 50cm off the wall. The UFH been off for two weeks and crack started last week and doubled in length over weekend. Has now been slightly disced out and stitched with resin. Concern is will any more appear after tiling and could the 65 degree heat compromised the screed - they screed company said a chemical reaction happens above 55 degrees which compromises it but couldn't elaborate. Not sure if matting would have saved me from new crack given the additional measure taking on the first crack, guess not a lot I can do but any input might help reduce or increase stress and worry levels ! Loz
  5. Thanks, thats what I was hoping other than the new crack that has appeared over weekend (UFH been off for 2 weeks) is in a place that can't be explained, I was kind of happy with the other one between the two zones/rooms but the new one runs off centre of wall at one end of the room no where near any entrances, screed guy had no idea why would have happened and just concerned that having had it up too high that more will start appearing after tiling, Loz
  6. Hi, Been having a bit of a nightmare with liquid screed poured 6 months ago, had it sanded at the month mark but took ages to get underfloor heating working - probably at 3 month mark. Then turned it up couple of degrees a day until water temp was about 45 degrees and left it permanently on, tiler checked moisture level each week and was taking ages to dry out to the 0.5 mark. Stupidly in last couple of weeks when really needed floor tiling started increasing temp of water a bit more each day to 65 degrees - I was unaware that was a problem. When I turned UFH heating off sure enough a crack appeared (6 month mark) between the two heating zones. Screed company came round and have been really good and said they should have put expansion point between two zones, lightly disced it out and poured resin in crack. Tiler is using matting and putting some sort of special joint where crack is. Problem is since then another crack has appeared in a strange place that no explanation for - has also now had resin put in. Screed company says above 55 degrees something happens to screed and now really worried I have screwed up the entire floor. Tiler is due to start Monday and is going to mat (Dural) the whole floor - should I be worried that long term going to have problems - to be honest not sure what other option I have. Wish knew about max temp and also should have gradually turned it down rather than just switching it off, any advice greatly appreciated, Loz
  7. Apologies can now see been a bit dumb here - I was thinking the grey pipe showing was some sort of special piece that I needed to join inside using 3.5" pipe can now see that something like this would do the job : Right angled flexible pan connector. Guess I can then go the close coupled toilet and then just come off the wall to go into the grey pipe by the side wall and box it all in - think prefer that to going for a boxed in closet toilet, many thanks for all the replies, very new to the plumbing side of life, Loz
  8. Thanks for quick replies, unfortunately the toilet can't change orientation as a narrow cloakroom so need a 90 degree bend as the waste is on the side wall. The big white pipe in picture is 3.5"/90mm and goes into the grey plastic T that is sized to take it so can't see how could change this to a 110 without some sort of adapter. There doesn't seem to be any 90 degree bends with flexible adaptors on the market in an all in one piece, have found a 3.5 to 4 inch adapter that could then attach onto but can't get head round going from bigger to smaller as won't waste collect on the rim where they meet inside. Many thanks, Lawrence
  9. Hi, Started to renovate downstairs cloak room which thought was going to be relatively easy and then removed boxing around toilet waste. I'll be honest I don't know much about plumbing which I am about to demonstrate ! There is a grey plastic waste part that comes into cloakroom from outside, being plastic assumed this was relatively recent but starting to doubt that as the white pipe shown in picture going into it is what I now believe to be 3.5 inches rather than what seems to the new standard 110mm from googling replacement pan connectors as wanted a new toilet. Started off assuming was going for a close coupled full access toilet and was just going to replace the plumbing to/from it and re-box it. Annoyingly the soil pipe is a bit of a distance off the wall - too much to get a close coupled back against the wall and make a 90 degree turn into that waste - started looking at flexible connectors but they are all 110 and not sure if bending into wall to get toilet flush (no pun intended) to rear wall and then back out to get into waste would be a great flow. Now thinking of going for a boxed in cistern but still not sure of how best to connect new pan connector to that 3.5 inch pipe including a right angled bend. Seen on other posts a 3.5 inch to 110 adapter but can't get my head round going from bigger pipe to smaller - won't stuff just collect on rim of the join. The access to the grey waste thing that goes into the ground outside the house is not great and has hedge in front/over it so don't think can easily be replaced with 110. Any advice greatly appreciated as sure missing something obvious: Thanks, Loz
  10. Thanks for reply, that is what starting to think as well, go with everything flexible and hope for the best ! Many thanks, Loz
  11. Thanks for all the replies, I have been doing quite a lot of reading in between posts, seems banging it up to 60 on the water temp and then turning it off ready for the tilers could well have been a mistake - the room never got above 25 degrees during all of that as an aside. I have been on trustpilot and read reviews of the moduleo LVT flooring and they are pretty bad - in fact appalling, then swapped to karndean which is a more expensive LVT and they were similarly bad - I know installation is likely to play a part as is people being more likely to leave a bad review but a hard sell reading those. Given I have the porcelain tiles paid for at property with tile company refusing to take them back (been more than 5 weeks - their policy and they are not budging) I am leaning towards finding a solution for them. That solution looks to be a decoupling matting and on internet found ditra 25 for £750 - durabase ci a bit cheaper but forums people seem to stick to the tried and tested ditra 25. I am tempted to risk it, wich I knew if crack was caused by movement or thermal shock of some kind - UFH been on for two months and crack only showed up when cold after weekend so no way of knowing I guess - could be the dry weather and the foundations settling, rep seemed to suggest if movement between the sub floors then matting won't help - thought would help a bit - any further thoughts greatly appreciated as will be pretty depressing to be a good few thousand in and a crack opening up across middle of room in most high traffic most visible area, Many thanks Loz
  12. My partner always wanted LVT ! I always wanted porcelain tiles largely as can't get my head round vinyl but mainly as thinking about ancient vinyl flooring from when I was young, also was thinking porcelain would hold heat well with the under floor heating and wear better, the Moduleo LVT been looking at in Transform range does say 20 years on wear but assume would be longer but guess a relatively new product, really don't know what to do as guess very difficult to tell whether is a thermal or movement crack, strange that crack only just showed up but chance it would diminish if turned heating on an experiment want to do after guy has seen it tomorrow. Just spooked now about movement and potential cracking elsewhere as there are other large openings into old house where we have historically had problems, to be honest deep down wish gone LVT from beginning as had a mare with tile company even before today. Loz
  13. Thanks for replies, I guess the thing that is spooking me is that the crack is on the line between the old and new extensions where movement between two sub floors was likely. It is also an area where there is no underfloor heating, if I caused the problem by whacking it up too much in final week which is I accept a possibility then wouldn't it crack where there is the under floor heating rather than where there isn't - very new to all of this as you can tell. Managed to speak to a dura mat technical person that from description said sounded like movement rather than thermal shock and he has very kindly offered to take a look in morning, if is movement from sub floors said mat wouldn't help but a movement joint might but crack is not straight. Duramat for whole area is £1200 plus extra labour for sticking it down and extra adhesive on top - probably the same as hit I would take ebaying the tiles - be interesting to see what he says tomorrow - will update, thanks for all help so far, been a bit of a nightmare, Loz
  14. Hi yes there was a foam strip all the way around the perimeter, been trimmed down now to floor level so not showing, strange in a way the crack is where there is no underfloor heating between the two zones, bit concerned I caused the problem by whacking it up to max (60 degrees) last week to dry and get last bit of drying done but after 5 months thought would be okay. Tiler has spoken to the matting people and they are saying don't guarantee it so he is not happy to do it so a bit snookered now. Tiling company won't take the tiles back as been more than 5 weeks so truly having a mare. Tilers advice is to ebay them and go with luxury vinyl tiles throughout. Not been a good day as all the other trades were lined up after this. Cheers, Loz
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