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markc

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Everything posted by markc

  1. Don’t use IBC’s sunlight will encourage growth and the y will turn green in no time. potable water tanks need to be kept cool and dark
  2. I can see it on Ipad
  3. I would still use a chisel, but if I had to choose between a power file and a hand rasp, I would go with the rasp. Power files are great on tube and cylindrical surfaces, just very difficult and slow on any flat surface.
  4. If you want a match, take a sample to someone who supplies car paint. they will match the colour
  5. Sooner rather than later to allow the ground to stabilise… moisture wise. no specific time frame but if you remove the tree now and dig the root bowl out the remaining roots will sort themselves.
  6. No! Great machine for finishing joints on handrails etc. But far too slow for first fix joinery, plus you tend to end up with a curved surface. Much easier with a sharp chisel and pare away at any material to be removed.
  7. Hi, I always allow 610mm. That way any variances in floor level or foot adjustment do not cause the machine to jamb in the hole and lean on a side panel as this causes the adjacent unit and doors to vibrate
  8. As above, sand and fill, no problem
  9. UFH generally runs around 25 degrees and gives a fairly even floor temperature. electric heating mats can result in much higher hot spots if a towel or something is left on the floor
  10. For the garage electrics the choice is yours. the flexible cheap stuff is fine but difficult to pull anything through. If you are putting the cables through first and then burying it, it’s fine.
  11. In that case you have done everything correctly. looking again at the pic is does appear heather hump is a result of expansion. not a great deal you can do, although it may cure itself in a few months. Get some glue into the de-laminated bit and plenty of weight while it cures
  12. In that case accept the 10% and tell them the difference is cancelled out by the delays
  13. Why has so much time past between quote, deposit and works being done? Was it their delays? Or something out of their control? If the client delays the works then it’s not really down to poor planning.
  14. That’s just single centre fixing, not great but not a problem as the nails are there to stop the slate sliding down the roof.
  15. I would remove the insulation and fit the ties, a well insulated roof sitting in the street won’t do you much good in a storm.
  16. A turret is never easy to slate or tile at the top. the original wasn’t great but this is just a bodge and run.
  17. Tile vents allow air over the felt but not really through the loft. I am guessing the extra insulation is stuffed right into the eaves and therefore blocking airflow. you don’t need to reduce insulation thickness, just pull it back a bit to allow air to flow again.
  18. Would be a shame to destroy all that exquisite craftsmanship
  19. Nothing a bit of sanding won’t sort
  20. Hep20 is my go-to for internals. Never had a leak. damn, I shouldn’t have said that ?
  21. 12mm hardie backer will do nicely, it is incredibly strong and easily resists the twisting forces likely in this application. bugger to cut, scoring with diamond blade is the best but the dust is horrendous.
  22. I would get a solicitor to send them a friendly letter asking how they propose to rectify the damage to your roof
  23. Can’t wait to find a suitable plot or place to knock down to start a new build instead of refurbs.
  24. Quite a bit of orange peel and proud jointing, could have done with some sanding before top coating
  25. Did you leave an expansion gap around the edge? was the flooring left in the room for a couple of days before fitting? do you have UFH? what is the floor build underneath? was this supplied as herringbone? Did you maintain the tongue and groove joint at the ends?
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