markc

Hi, I’m even more confused now. what is on the other side of the wall/fence? Do the inner properties have much bigger gardens? do your deeds show this patio area as yours?

Noooooooo ?

The car in the pic could scupper any chance of Part Q. Had it been a tractor it could serve as proof of Ag use

Can you post a pic? I’m struggling to see how your patio can be a ROW unless it shouldn’t be a patio in the first place.

If (when) I build from scratch I will install a bespoke system in plant room, but in my present place I use Hive plugs for driveway lighting, Christmas lights etc. A ring of sockets around the garden/perimeter proved power for the hive plugs. very easy to programme different effects via motion sensors etc.

Get it ripped out and done right. This is your home, not a commercial unit. you will never feel happy knowing it was bodged.

Hi, apart from reducing the walk from kitchen to bedroom or mezzanine what benefit would it add? I think the potential benefits would be outweighed by the disruption to kitchen layout and surfaces.

Hi, another company or person could have purchased any assets but unless they took on the company in its entirety, debts, liabilities etc. Then I cannot see how any agreement made during a sale could be transferred especially as there is no monetary value and if any other purchaser on the estate were to have an objection, would the company or new owner still honour their agreement? Definitely not.

+1 on the above, I would say the £200 insurance is money thrown away. 50 year old agreement with a company that has since gone bust …. Nothing enforceable, everything regarding the company ceased when it went under.

You could go straight to a structural Engineer - adding a whole new storey will require SE input anyway, or you could approach local Building Control and get an idea what they would be wanting in terms of calcs, test pits, ground analysis etc.

Thermalite.. AKA icing sugar blocks! Pain in the ar*& to fix to. im taking it this is a single leaf wall construction … single block thickness? if so then I would take the risk on differential expansion (which won’t be much anyway) and use some proper blocks to add some stiffness and secure fixings.

@ianR1 Yes it is a stepped footing. When we moved in the floors where found to be damp as it is an old house the was no membrane just concrete painted in bitumen which had broke down as the floor boards where nailed directly through it. We have dug out the floors for the floor to finish as it was originally. I guessing you dug out to below the footing, so now only insulation to stop the footing sliding/moving sideways off its bearing/support. Screed will help to stabilise but I would keep an eye on the floor for movement. Rare but it does happen when the ground outside swells and pushes on the founds, if there is nothing solid on the inside to resist the walls can move.

Not related to your question but the step out brick … is that the stepped footing? Have you lowered the floor below footing level to get the insulation down? Or has it been underpinned?

I doubt it is piled, looks like a shallow strip found, sadly many larger developments have been getting away with pretty poor foundations. I’ve seen loads recently that are little more than scraped indentations (as opposed to trenches) with around 300mm of concrete thrown in. I feel sorry for the buyer because they are likely to have major issues coming up.

I don’t know of anything saying you can’t tee off before the main property …unless you were going before a meter.

If possible I would be looking to keep the ground away from the new structure by a deal with the track owner or making the new build slightly smaller to allow for a drain. failing that you will need a watertight slab and wall construction at least until out of the ground plus a couple of hundred millimetres. Above that you could use timber or SIPs etc.

Nothing, an abrasive disc will always burn wood. You can profile MDF (fitting trim or cheap skirtings) with course sanding disks but the dust is horrendous

+1 on the above

Just looking at the specs and installation guide, I would guess there is not enough input pressure, can you put the pump on the floor, hose from top IBC tap to pump,this should get you enough input pressure to activate

A pump that cannot pump uphill is pretty pointless, maybe it needs a bigger differential pressure between in and out to trigger an auto start

Ahh, much better. And yes if you cover with a tarp growth will be prevented. can’t see why the booster pump would not work,

Don’t use IBC’s sunlight will encourage growth and the y will turn green in no time. potable water tanks need to be kept cool and dark

I can see it on Ipad

I would still use a chisel, but if I had to choose between a power file and a hand rasp, I would go with the rasp. Power files are great on tube and cylindrical surfaces, just very difficult and slow on any flat surface.

If you want a match, take a sample to someone who supplies car paint. they will match the colour