PeterW

I buried this beast - one good rain shower and it was half full, god knows what it’s like now after a day and a half of rain..!! How much storage do you need ..??

Water pressure is based on the vertical distance from the tank to the outlet so your hot will be fine.

What is the block work spec..?? If it states fully filled and pointed perps then you’re within your rights to ask them to do it. If not, thats pretty standard. What is in the cavity insulation-wise ..??

I’ve used Meridian - they will come and inspect and then ask for any remediation to be done and happy to accept photo evidence. The reports are very detailed too - I think each has 7-10 photos taken by the inspector in each which helps when there is any query or even if something did happen to them.

I would want to know how it had been removed. The Samsung controller box has a lot of connections to sensors on the tank(s) and they need to be included as they aren’t cheap. Not sure it mentions age of the system either - has the tank been serviced for example ..? If the heat pump is less than 3 years old and the controls are all intact, then it’s a fair price. The rest is an unknown really.

Quinetic are good - about to buy a couple of the new outside lights to see how they work as they don’t need a receiver as it’s built into the unit.

Yeh - B&Q..!! They sell mesh in A4 sized sheets ...

Ditch the screed, transfer 50mm of the RC slab thickness into insulation and you’re possibly at building regs level insulation depending on your P/A for the slab area. That brings the floor up by 65mm, and makes it a relatively simple task to excavate a 1000mm wide path around the house at 100mm below DPC. Bed this on sand and cement, with 600mm slabs in the centre of 200mm bands of deeper gravel as a French drain. As @ProDave says though - 145mm TF build, what is the outer skin going to be and what are you doing with the blockwork..?

Used to be connected by a director from memory and then set up rival company hence the change to a very close name. Not the best - standard high street stuff. If you’re in the market right now, Eddison’s are clearing a big number of Bathstore franchises and have a lot of bargains but will be shop stock / displays etc.

The problem is that you need to get the water temperature low enough - they will be listed as something like 6/11 which means 6c in and 11c out. You then need to look at the water flow rate and for some it’s going to be quite high - 400l/h or 6.5l/min is a lot for an ASHP to chill down so you’ll need a corresponding 5-7kw ASHP on the other end.

@joth is you plan to use a small ASHP to chill the water then..?

Its a very expensive water duct battery unit...! https://www.reclima.it/en/prodotto/zehnder-batteria-di-post-trattamento-zehnder-comfopost-cw12/

A SIP is a structural insulated panel. It’s basically two sheets of plywood, OSB or other panel board where a polyurethane expanding foam is injected into the gap between them in a factory. These are trimmed and designed to make the whole wall panel, and are joined by special filler sections and by design are heavy as they are big. They need either craning, or lifting into place by a telehandler.

So use the Willis heater solution that @TerryE has - less than £100 in bits and dead easy to install.

For one not going above 47c (ie not doing high temperature water) then I'd like to see the 2.5-3 range

I don’t think they are rivet holes as they look like repro slates. Think they have been removed and damage and turned upside down.

Nottingham and in the shade...

Not that difficult to do, but finding someone with a decent 165mm hole saw may be a challenge !! From memory, you have a pretty decent insulation level, and one of the larger single room units would work ok as the cooling load would be less than the finger in air calculators. Also worth bearing in mind that as long as the rate of cooling is more than the heat gain, the temperature will reduce..! It's just how rapidly is the question.

Does that include the cost savings on the roofing materials, installation and additional benefits of using an in roof system..?

Its a bit of reverse engineering as you take the heating load and effectively reverse the process ..! You need volume and heat loss, then start and end temperature required. Unless it’s a very large space though, it should be fine for most rooms.

Don’t do it.... Go with E7, heat the tank to 45c with ASHP to maintain CoP above 2.5, and then top to 62c with E7 immersions. Time of the top up is about 75 mins at 3Kw for a 300 litre tank, so you’re 3.75KwH or 20p ish to get a lot of hot water. For the sort of input you need, a 4kw Mitsubishi would be change of £3.5k installed as you don’t need MCS at those levels for RHI. The Nilan unit is similar to the Genvex units and includes MVHR so not a good example.

Not necessarily so, an in roof system can replace the tiles/slates and be lighter than an existing roof finish.

A lot quicker - just make sure they keep snots out of the cavity. 150mm is ok, 175mm gets you more and 200mm is ideal but needs longer wall ties. I’ve got the name of an excellent company in Sheffield if you want an installer.

I’d love to know why they think there will be voids as the drilling pattern excludes that. I have drilled a couple of places and they are definitely there - FLiR camera will show the gaps if there are any, may do that in the winter to see what is shown up as they are guaranteed anyway.

Use EPS board below DPC and EPS blown beads above DPC.