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About Ben100

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  1. I'll play it safe and fix each one, with two nails at the edges.
  2. I'm using plain clay tiles, which have a batten lip, on a 30 degree pitch roof. I also live in the East of England in zone 1. If I need to pin each one I will, I just don't want to do unnecessary work Here are the tiles
  3. Hi all, I’ve been reading about tile fixing and have found some contradictory information out there. Some are saying you just need to nail the 2 eaves rows and then every 3 or 5, while other information says you need to nail every tile. My tile manufacturer states “BS 5534 states that all interlocking tiles must be mechanically fixed.”. Does this just depend on the type of tile?
  4. Yeah, after thinking it through a bit more I ended up installing an plastic eaves tray.
  5. Wouldn't you end up with the same issue? The plastic eaves tray would stop the membrane from sagging in between the rafters and allowing any water out.
  6. Thanks guys, all great information!
  7. Again, counter battening seems a bit overkill for just the bottom two battens. Maybe I can lift the problem battens a few mm using shims or something similar?
  8. Could do, but it’s probably a bit overkill for the south of England 😁 But that does raise a question. How do you allow water to run out under the battens if you fix them to the flat OSB?
  9. Hi all, I've just started my first roof on my extension and have a few question. The design is like so. 1. Timber frame, with pre-built trusses 2. Exposed rafter tails 3. OSB sheet material over exposed rafter tails to hide the felt/membrane and battens 3. Felt/membrane over OSB with enough overhand to go into the gutter when installed 4. First batten to create a kick-up on the bottom tile 5. Additional battens to fix tiles 6. 20/30 tiles for 30 degree pitched roof How does this design sound? Am I missing anything? One concern I have is with the OSB and felt. The OSB creates a flat surface for the felt to site on, and the battens fix firmly to the OSB and rafters. This means that I do not have any gap between the last 2 battens and the felt. Is this an issue? The other felt and battens have a small gap between them so any water can escape. I'm concerned that water may/will get stuck here and rot the lower battens? Thanks in advance for any advice! Ben
  10. I have a quote from a local timber yard for 32x175 Black Painted Feather Edge 4.8mtr lengths @ £2.60MTR+VAT. Sounds pretty good!
  11. Thanks all, I’m looking for feather edge cladding and to paint it black. It’s a common look around here in north Essex. As I’m painting it the actual look of the wood isn’t that important. I think I’ll go for Siberian larch as it’s hardy and inexpensive.
  12. Hi all, I'm looking to clad the outside of my timber frame extension, and was wondering where the best place to buy the timber was? Are you guys going to online companies or buying from local timber merchants? Cheers, Ben
  13. Ok, thanks guys! It's a small enough area, just another job to do...
  14. Hi all, I'm working on my en suite and have a question on waterproofing the floor. The en suite is on the second floor, with a build-up of 22mm OSB and 10mm concrete screen with electric UFH in it. The shower tray and cubicle has been tanked and taped, and I've used hardi back board on the walls. Do I need to tank the rest of the en suite floor outside of the shower tray? Or can I tile over the screen with a water resistant adhesive and grout? Cheers!
  15. Good point. I was thinking ASHP heats to a lower temp, but wasn't considering the heating element.