PeterW

FRA go to the Environment Agency flood maps and find the area you are in. Depending on the zone, there is boilerplate as to what you need to do to meet it. For SUDs you will need the percolation / soil test results and what hard landscaping you are planning - from there it’s not difficult to sort.

That’s far too cheap !! And I know what you mean about the sweeper finings - we did that and it went off like rock..!

Thats cheap - pay about £7 a tonne around here ..!

I’ve spoken to them and they seem pretty reasonable and honest. I think as @JSHarris said - these are branded Chinese units.

Ok so this is all room in roof ..?? Even the garage ..?? If so, do the lot with attic trusses as it will be quicker and simpler. I thought when you asked for cut roof design that you were expecting this to be open to the rafters.

Because that roof design is a pig..!! Why the Dutch barn roof for example ..?? The roof lights aren’t helping, they are quite high in the pitch so would mean that purlins would get in the way and a collar tie truss would possibly mean they’d need to be lower in the roof plane. Do the angled rooms rooms really need 4.5m high ceilings ..??

Toughened is fine - laminated is a different product that has specific purposes and is especially suited for horizontal or roof glass.

I’d check the reviews before I paid ... https://www.scamdoc.com/view/38106 2% trust score ..? And all reviews are on Loox Beta, which is errrr.... suspect ..!!

Your architect really did hate you .... The dog leg is a fairly simple roof but does it need to open up to the rafters as there are roof lights ..? If so, then you’re going to need an asymmetric steel frame on the corner angle as you need to support the ridge as the rafters will have to hang off them. The garage would be simply done with a steel A frame at each end of the roof where the vertical panels are, and connect these with steel purlins to support the rafters. Nice and tidy and makes the framing out pretty simple. Without that, you will need to use ceiling level ties, or at least collar ties, to stop the roof spreading. Oh, and a 45 degree roof would be ideal - why did he decide 44 degree was suitable ..??!!

Definitely not ..!! Will create poo mountain in the lower pipe and you can’t drop a vertical pipe from first floor without a rest bend. Correct way is a rest bend in the bottom of the 1st floor stack and then run it into a 45 degree Y junction under the floor - pick the most used leg for the main run.

No just send it back saying it will not fit and trying to fit it scratched the paint..!

Any 110mm pipe that is going to be under 300mm deep really needs to be concrete capped, even if it is only to protect it when you landscape over as a whacker plate will stick MoT1 through UPVC pipe with ease

Worth switching to one of the alternative chemicals ..?

Can you not use an external staircase ..?

What has the SEng said about steels in this..? And where are the internal walls as that will dictate what’s feasible.

Thats barking mad ..! And the eHW and eDual both use e-lectricity to heat up the cells. @Nickfromwales can probably comment better here. My view would be a small buffer tank of 80-100 litres with an “emergency” immersion in it in case of loss of ASHP and then use the eDuals on E7 for the DHW. Load shift to night time usage and it’s about the best you can do. Don’t use the buffer as a pre-heat for the DHW as it will only use high rate grid energy to recharge via the ASHP assuming you’re using DHW in peak hours and even with a decent CoP you will be saving buttons a year.

Check this thread where @JSHarris installed a precharged A2A

Autocad does it natively - select Export - Lithograph and it creates the .stl file.

Also worth remembering the opinel knives are carbon steel so whilst they are easy to put an edge on, they rust very quickly if you don’t look after them.

I was at GW Live and Niwaki were there - quality of the knives was stunning and the prices very competitive.

TNB (trinitrobenzene) is a lot easier and just as much fun .... ?

Fitted one of these recently and surprising how quick it drys stuff. With MVHR too, I’m going to be interested to see how it performs. https://www.lakeland.co.uk/24576/Dry%3ASoon-Wall-Mounted-Heated-Airer Plus point is that it folds up to the wall so you can mount above a work surface in a utility space.

If this is UFH only, why is he speccing a high temperature heat pump ..?? You need flow of 35-38c tops, well within the realm of a standard heat pump. HT is only needed for a flow temp higher than 52c, and that’s only used on Sunamps where you want to regenerate the units. Is he thinking of using a 9Kw Sunamp as a buffer vessel..??! Ask for a design and schematic and post it here.

It is for exempt from Building Regs, there is no limit on an outbuilding which is used as incidental to the main dwelling house assuming : Outbuildings are considered to be permitted development, not needing planning permission, subject to the following limits and conditions: - No outbuilding on land forward of a wall forming the principal elevation. - Outbuildings and garages to be single storey with maximum eaves height of 2.5 metres and maximum overall height of four metres with a dual pitched roof or three metres for any other roof. - Maximum height of 2.5 metres in the case of a building, enclosure or container within two metres of a boundary of the curtilage of the dwellinghouse. - No verandas, balconies or raised platforms (a platform must not exceed 0.3 metres in height) - No more than half the area of land around the "original house"* would be covered by additions or other buildings. - In National Parks, the Broads, Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty and World Heritage Sites the maximum area to be covered by buildings, enclosures, containers and pools more than 20 metres from the house to be limited to 10 square metres. That is from the planning portal.

@Hsquared, welcome to the forum @Nickfromwales who is our resident Sunamp officionado will be along shortly to advise ...!