PeterW

About 20 minutes .... @Nickfromwales can give you a more accurate estimate but it’s seriously not that difficult ..!

What code is showing on the digital display on the main board..? you can set the status by changing one of the DIP switches.

@8ball was this new as all Geberit stuff comes with really good instructions..?? have you got the part number ..??

Right... disconnect A3 from the internal connection on the Heat Pump and it will drop you down to 80% If you’re hitting overheat then it’s odd as it should go through your open loop.

TBH I wouldn’t go with a domestic installer. This is an aircon unit at its core, find a local aircon engineer and get their opinion on what is best and what they are comfortable with. Most of the domestic installers are one trick ponies who have installation in mind and when it goes wrong are nowhere to be seen ...

Saw and chisel.

Nail it all and it will be tight. Have you nogged it too..?? Glue and screw the floor down and it won’t squeak.

Agree with @JSHarris - for example Ice Energy sold an IVT heat pump. This was a rebadged Mitsubishi unit. IVT are now part of Bosch, and resell different units...! A lot depends on your need for heat / DHW as some are better at high temperatures than others.

We backfill with EPS and weak mortar below DPC and use a step DPC with weeps above to close this cavity off. Only downside about bringing your trenchfill up to the top is you have to make sure that you have enough space over the top of the founds to get any drainage or other services out through the wall as you will be very high up. Alternative is you sleeve the pipework and reinforce appropriately.

They will need plating, and a bolt schedule producing for the column to beam and beam to beam join. Sitting a 203 on top of a 250 clearly creates a point load, has that been factored into the design...? Out of interest, how much are you paying for this SEng service and where in the UK are you...?

To be clear, I would probably not take this on as I wouldn't know how stable the remaining trunk was, nor if there was stress damage to any of the main boughs that could cause a kick back or other movement. These sorts of jobs aren't called widow-makers for fun....

Stop stripping the crown !! The weight in that is counter balancing the rest of the tree. It will also stop it rolling anywhere. What kit have you got available ..?? Scaffold is preferable to ladder here - I take it you’ve got decent PPE such as trousers or at least chaps ..?? What size saw, how many and what type of chains ..??

Has it still got the crown on it ...?? How tall was it...?? That will stop it rolling, the weight needs to come off back as far as the pivot point so you will need access and I’d suggest a tower, section off the base first ... but it a pro would be safer

Use push fit. Reason Geberit say do not use solvent as that is made of polyethylene and it doesn’t take kindly to solvent welding ..! Also, you’re not supposed to drop 90 degrees like that within a certain distance - MIs tell you the minimum distances.

Cost of fixing system will start to outweigh your thicker insulation costs. Also consider final finish on the insulation and how you will manage windows and doors. 215 on flat will be 50% more expensive on blocks and mortar too.

Why avoid internal ..?? You'll need to have walls over 400mm thick to do that design.

The warranty company mean ICFA.... http://www.icfa.org.uk/ Another trade body invented to keep the money rolling in...

What are you actually looking for ..?? structural designs..?? BBA approved designs ..?? Standard details only work where you have a standard build (think developer / NHBC) and are only useful to illustrate a point. If you are planning to use this design - which would need Insulation both sides from what we have discussed previously - then your architect / Structural Engineer need to sign off on it or produce the calculations needed. Once you have that, and you are using the manufacturers standard installation methods for the insulation, you have everything you need.

@Russell griffiths it is very good. Site near noise and whilst it’s not the optimal 44mm stuff (40mm units from memory) it is certainly warm and quiet. This was based on some “usual” designs too - everything is tilt and turn so opens inward, and the big 1800x1100 windows have T&T on the centre panel of three panels only. With MVHR you don’t open windows that often ..!!

Icon Airflow is a good one as it closes on the front.

£254 inc VAT for 3G UPVC inc a 3G back door and 2 pairs of French doors.

Usually to provide DHW demand. A number of heating boilers can modulate down to 5-7Kw, but when in DHW mode (especially combi’s) can be putting 32Kw into the incoming mains water to get a reasonable temperature and flow.

Pull the BBA certificate for the product you want to use, and then find the section on usage. None will say ok in permanent wet conditions for PUR or PIR.

PUR and PIR are only moisture resistant. They require a DPM around them to stop permanent moisture contact. Neither are certified for use in permanently damp conditions.