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We are installing a shower, toilet and basin into a new extension for the parents and we have a question about the feed for the basin. basically the current system consists of a large hot water tank in a cupboard in the hall, a loft cold water tank with only abouut 500mm between the two. its a bungalow. there is a rising main into the loft tank from which we are taking a cold water feed to the shower. There is a cold feed from the loft tank that we can use for the cold feed to basin and toilet but we have an issue with the hot feed. The hot feeds leave the hot water tank and go straight down into the concrete floor then re-appears in the kitchen and bathroom for the sinks and bath. The hot water vent comes off shortly after leaving the tank as usual. as we need to take a new hot water feed up into the loft and across into the new extension ceiling, we are worried about the lack of pressure to the basin. are there any systems available to help pump the hot water to the extension (its about 5 metres) or do you think the pressure will be okay. The parents are used to the current system and its okay, not brilliant. I'll try to add a diagram but my scanner is playing up!
Our MBC passive new build has no conventional heating system. We are now embarking on plumbing. We want to make the right choices for a vented copper DHW cylinder needed for up to 4 - 6 people. The hot water will be needed for 2 gravity-fed mixer / pumped showers, 3 bathroom basins, a kitchen sink and a utiIity sink. We think we need 3 immersion- type connections on the cylinder: The energy from the solar PV will preferentially divert electricity into an 'immersun' type element (probably in the bottom of the cylinder?). The main energy source - when the sun isn't shining - is likely to be a conventional off-peak tariff immersion heater (again near the bottom of the cylinder?) And we think we ought to have a back up immersion for occasional use only, positioned near to the top of the cylinder. The two power showers will need to be fed via (2 no. ? twin) impeller pumps from the cylinder - probably (?) with 2 separate connecting points off or close to the top of the cylinder with some means of ensuring no risk of air bubbles into the pump in-feeds. We think we're probably looking at a cylinder in the size range of 200 - 300 litres. Having looked at a number of topics on the forum, we can’t find suggestions that address our specific queries, hence this post. We'd be very grateful for any advice and guidance on selecting the right type & size of cylinder & configuration of connections.
We have an open vented central heating system with gravity fed hot water. For reasons over which we will draw a polite veil, we (well 'I') drained the radiators, refilled them, flushed out what I could: and ............made the heating problem worse. At the very best time of year for that to happen. So, in a fit of rage and frustration, I re-drained the complete system took all the radiators off and, at long last, discovered what the problem is. I don't know what I'm doing. Anyway, here's the thing: 's gonna get cold in the next few days and I'd like to stay married. The 'boiler' is a multi-fuel fire. It has a back boiler which is now empty. Please tell me I can light the fire anyway, even though there's no water in the heating pipes. In other words use the fire as a simple space and running hot water heater...... If I can't there's a nice warm hotel right next to where SWMBO works, and .... well you can guess the rest.
Here's one I should have done earlier, I know. But we are where we are. A drain down depends on gravity doesn't it? So all the piping that's below the level of the drain cock level (no rads have drain points) will still be full. So - just a thought - what if I turn the circulation pump on for a minute or two to 'force' the bottom few centimeters of water out? Switching the pump on for a minute or so, will I knacker the pump? Any Welsh plumbers on the board will be most welcome to answer.