Chablais

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About Chablais

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  • About Me
    Self employed for last 25 yrs, in cycle retail. Recently sold the business and now starting major renovation and extension of our house. On a very fast learning curve!
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    Cumbria

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  1. Hi Peter I have not purchased a cylinder yet, only Hep20 pipe. What are the issues with plumbing the ACV cylinders? On the face of it they appear a good solution, fast reheat times, using the heating water as a buffer to feed the UFH. Also have an immersion elemnet to dump my solar. Can see they need filling/emptying in a defined sequence to stop the inner tank being deformed. Attached one of their schematics. We will be well insulated, and as airtight as we can. Not ready for airtest yet. Going to fit Hansgrohe Ecosmart showers as 9ltrs/min. What would you recommend if not the ACV? Thanks for your input, it is appreciated, thanks
  2. So I have stripped out all the existing pipework, back to the incoming main, on my major renovation extension. I have an overall concept of what I am trying to do gleaned from reading this forum, but have many questions! Trying to make sure I am on the right track before buying all the kit. I have three bedrooms all with ensuite WC, basin and shower, one has a bath. Heating is UFH on ground and lower ground floor, radiator in each bedroom, and towel rail/radiator in each ensuite/bathroom. Downstairs also has a bathroom with shower, WC, basin. I have mains gas. so the concept is to have a new gas system boiler, an unvented cylinder and run UFH, heating and hot water, all from the tank. Is this how it works? The tank I am looking at is from AVChttps://www.acv.com/gb/professional/new_product/06627401-465/smart-e-plus-240#tabspace=unit&tabid=diagrams, and is a tank in tank system, so using the primary heating water as a buffer for the UFH and radiators. Using Hep20 from a manifold for hot and cold water, and run the upstairs radiators from another manifold upstairs. I know I need a double check valve and stop cock on the incoming main, and a PRV before the tank, the tank comes with a mixer valve. After that I am not sure what I need I have seen some on here use one large, valved, brass Hep20 manifold say in the utility room next to the boiler and tank, to feed everything, others have used sub manifolds for each room, using the much cheaper, plastic, non valved Hep20 manifolds. Is this purely to save money, I like the idea of being able to turn off individual consumers from the manifold, but unsure in real life how often this could happen, cost difference is considerable, but then it is a one off cost. Control wise I am planning on using Heatmiser Neo thermostats on each zone, and a Neohub and their wiring centre for the UFH and also for the radiator manifold circuits. Boiler was looking at Veissman Vitodan 200 series but unsure on sizing, these are available with weather compensation, but will this work with Heatmiser, how do they talk to each other? Was trying to find modulating thermostats but Heatmiser don't offer them. Also unsure on UVC sizing, as it appears I could run a smaller tank, 210 litres, if I have a large enough output boiler to reheat it fast enough, or is it better to have a larger tank, 300 litres and a smaller boiler, also have a solar array of 3.7KW so was hoping to use a diverter to an immersion in the tank for all excess solar. I apologise for so many questions, but feeling a bit overwhelmed by everything.
  3. Hi Russell, Not seen those before, looks good, but pricey at £40.00 per pipe, so 80 per bar shower. No mention on their website of what adapters they do, for connections. Trying to draw up my plumbing, tonights job!
  4. Hi Joe90 I have to use a tile backer board that is 30mm deep, as I made the studwall opening before selecting a shower tray, so I need to make up 30mm. So reading the reviews the threads will be too short. So what you are saying is that I need to anchor the pipes securely before they come thru the tile backer board. Or could I use the one you linked to, but fit it to the surface of the tile backer board, screwed back to the noggin in the studwall, then the threads should be long enough, as only the thickness of a tile and adhesive. Sorry so many questions!
  5. Thanks for the pics very helpful. For the bar mixer problem, do you use the brass fitting screwed to the noggin so it has more support? Also did you use copper for the last bit that projects thru the tiles? Seems like more joints. Would I still need one of these screwed to the tile. I really need to learn, and fast!
  6. Hi Joe90 Thanks for the reply, I looked at those manifolds, but have also seen that most on here used the ones with shut off valves, which seemed a good idea. However the brass ones with valves are considerably more money. Did you incorporate any shut off at the manifold or fit them at the device end. I guess I could put one gate valve before each manifold. Did you use 10mm or 15mm to your wc and basins? Just trying to draw it out and try and understand what fittings etc I need to order. Screwfix have a 15% off if you buy five or more Hep 20 items, plus additional 10% off in May, but they don't seem to have much Hep20 listed online. thanks again for your info
  7. So I have reached the point where I need to start first fix plumbing. After reading about manifold systems on this forum have decided that is the way forward. Is Hep 20 a good choice? I have a plumber who will help me, he said Hep 20 barrier pipe was too floppy for the bar mixer showers. He also said I might struggle to make the 90deg turn within the studwall, was trying to avoid having any hidden joints, so really don't want an elbow behind the tiles in the studwall. He suggested using a MLCP pipe as it holds it shape better. Or converting to copper for the stubs that stick thru the wall, but this would also mean a joint behind the tiles. What have people used? I was thinking bar mixers as easy to change in the future and a lot better value than using remote diverts like Hansgrohe I box thing. Was going to use Hep20 for everything, except UFH which is coming from Wunda.
  8. I wanted Marley Alutec, hidden fixings, 50 years colourfast and guarantee, easy to install, but priced up at over 3k. In the end I fitted Floplast plastic, £200.00, so far no creaks, all joints lubed and plenty of expansion space. I used the top hung brackets so invisible from the ground, time will tell I guess.
  9. Just finished fitting my facias and soffits, chose Marley Alutec facia and barge boards, hopefully no maintenance, and a claimed 50 year lifespan. To keep costs down used plastic soffit. wanted to use the Marley Alu gutters, but had to draw the cost line somewhere, and have fitted Floplast plastic, difference of nearly 2k! saved. Although if the plastic gives up, it will cost to refit safely, as easy now with whole house scaffolded, but a large cost to scaffold just for gutter replacement.
  10. Hi, I had quotes from Weru in Blackpool when I was sourcing my windows, they were almost double Internorm prices, and that takes some doing. Great specs available, but at a price. I have a friend self building who used them and he is very happy with the quality and spec. The fitters taped inside and out and did a good job. I believe he dealt with the head office in Blackpool
  11. Fantastic, thank you for such an informative, detailed and useful blog post. I hope I can achieve such a good outcome!
  12. I think it is more important that the outer matches, as this is how it seals, with a flexiring around the grooves into a socket.
  13. Hi Folks So i am about halfway through my MVHR install, using 92mm semi rigid ducts from Hybalans. Does anyone know if the Ubbink ducting usually listed as 90mm is actually the same? The fiitings all look very similar, and I would have thought that there are not that many actual manufactures of the ducting. I purchased tow50m rolls and thought it would be enough, wrong! I need approx 40m more, and the Ubbink stuff is circa £160.00 per 50m roll, versus the HB+ at circa 275.00 so quite a saving. Anyone any tips on using EPP 180mm dia ducst for the initial input and exhaust from the unit/ Thanks Andy
  14. Have a look at Renson, a Belgium company, not sure if they use a third parties valves, but they do loads of options, including ones designed to be painted. Also floor and wall options. List attached for examples. Renson wentylacja 2018.pdf
  15. I looked at them at the last Build show at the NEC, the examples on the stand where very good, almost impossible to see where the butt joins had been made. I guess only someone that has had them installed a while will know how they perform. So far it is the only panel system I have seen that does not require the somewhat unsightly inside corner beads.