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  1. Can anyone offer any advice for a newbie spraying a house? also best way to achieve straight lines around reveals as I don’t think what I’ve been left with will look very good after spraying. As you can see on photo, would you take plaster back a little and caulk for straight lines. James
  2. Hi, Just purchased a Wagner control pro 250m, got a large 4 bed to paint. I’ve never used an airless sprayer before so I will be starting off in areas that will be hidden by floor to ceiling kitchen units etc. I’ve read a few of the older posts, just wondering if anyone has any advice on which paint to use? I’ve read some paints don’t need watering down for mist coats which I thought all fresh plaster should receive. should any filling and sanding take place once the first/ mist coat has been sprayed of before hand? James
  3. @markcthanks for clearing that up. is it best to put the 25mm upstanding directly on the block and beam or sat on top of the pir? thanks
  4. Seen a few posts but still abit unsure which way is correct. Should the Dpm underlay or overlap? Does it matter? james
  5. Thanks I understand now, can anyone recommend any tapes to use I was looking at the one on Screwfix(713fr) but not sure if ok to use for all dpm joints. Regards. James
  6. Just read this bit and would like to ask what the best materials to use, i was under the impression that there was only one way that everyone did 25mm pir and then the edge strip, mines from wunda 8mm and about to start this job. Edge strip insulation by JGUHEDGE or similar approved - My builder used this, the architect specified 25mm PIR. This thin insulation creates a bad cold bridge. Regards James
  7. @nod @SuperPav any thoughts on the above?
  8. We decided to use moisture resistant boards, tank it and tile onto that, but there was some confusion when the boarders came last week and they’ve used normal plasterboard as shown in the photo below. Will this be ok when tanked or Should I ask them to swap it out for the moisture resistant? james
  9. @Mr Punter Did think about that but think that might of caused other issues as some of the insulation we was able to fit flush and some wasn't. so decided to take the front off where it was needed that way all flush with the studs, its been an absolute nightmare. Still unsure about the 5 core cable from the bedroom to the stairs, do you know if we have to run a 5 core from bedroom to each individual tread or just daisy chain from first through to 12th tread ? Regards James
  10. To be fair they have been very picky, some fixings I've missed out, scaffolding needs to be raised up as there struggling to move boards about. The only thing is the scaffold will need lowering again for them to have a comfortable working height in the vaulted section. screw heads slightly proud of insulations and worst of all the PIR we fitted either side of hallway was 100mm in a 95mm stud and he's refused to fix boards to it as the studs are set back slightly. I'm having to remove all the vcl and take the foil off and plane them down flush with the studs, a mistake I won't make again. I've looked at the link you posted and don't think that would work as there are to large module light switches top and bottom for controlling lights in hall. I think I'm going for some sort of controller and possible app to control colours but still be able to switch on/off at wall. don't think I'm going to use the lutron as suggested by carrerahill. If the cable comes from the bedroom Driver controller in 5 core, does it just go to first tread/led strip and then on to the next or is there a better way as I feel there is going to be a lot of wire and not a lot of room for it? Sorry to be a pain Regards James
  11. @TonyT @Carrerahill Sorry for the late reply, had a shit time when the plasterers came round and ripped into my work and I was so looking forward to them arriving. Thanks that's one part to forget about then, The driver will be in a upstairs bedroom on top of a wardrobe for future proof. I would like to have an option for colour so I'm opting for RGBW, I know this might complicate things but I'm having RGBW on some plaster in trims in vaulted section too so want them to be able to match. Can you help with options for wiring maybe a simple diagram on how to get the 5 core flex from driver to the 12 treads and what is the best scene controller to use. I don't want anything fancy just be able to switch them on and off with switches and a colour changing system. Regards James
  12. I'm in the process of lighting this part of the house, having main light hanging down from centre and looking at plastered in led profiles either side .
  13. I'm a little concerned about my 2 way lighting will it work? There will be a pair of switches one to operate the stairs and one to operate the vaulted section. It will be AC 2 way switch top and bottom of stairs going to a driver and some sort of controller for both. (Lights will be rgbw) We have had the steel stairs fitted yesterday and not sure how the cables will route to each treds, has anyone done something similar and how best to control them I'm not looking for a pir sensor system just using switches. Regards James
  14. Might be worth insulating all ducting too if its a cold roof space, this might prevent some condensate.
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