James94

At the moment we have pumped it out to the site toilet which is at the front of the property which is connected to the in-laws main sewer. I know this won’t be there for ever and pipes will go but there is a drain just before the main road which both of our waste leave via, I was maybe thinking this but it’s a long way to go. question is 110mm or 300mm sump, would it make much difference? Regards. Scezy

Thanks for all the advice, It maybe a little drastic but I fear a few spells of heavy rain will flood the garden so I’ve chosen to install another soak away. But before I complete it is it worth incorporating some sort of access point to enable pumping water away as I’m worried it won’t soak away fast enough under prolonged rains. I was first of all thinking a 300mm drain and a puddle pump or just a 110mm pipe connected to crates and hose in to pump away, do you have any thoughts? Here is a pick after 1day of heavy rain. Regards. Scezy

Looking for some advice, prior to starting turfing it lashed it down and one area is still boggy. We thought this was because it was a low spot, top soil wasn’t up to correct height(hadn’t finished levelling in that part) before the rain hit .Its improved slightly but not enough to turf on and I’m worried even if we could have turfed it this is going to cause further problems down the line, will that area ever be solid or just turn to mush? The ground is clay, we had 2x2m2 soakaways put in, one each side of garden. Just to help with attenuation in downpours. Couple of pics highlight the area.

@Post and beam When we did ours we put it in a flexible duct cut out enough pir so it finished level with top of pir and then UFH on top, hope this helps. Scezy

I used sandtoft rivius antique slate, which is a clay tile. Very pleased with them

@gaz_moose Thanks for your reply, I’m aware about mixing plastic pipes and fittings but I’m not sure how you decide what radiator push fit connections will fit best to JG pipe or maybe it doesn’t matter? I think it’s flow on the left side and return on the right, not sure if pipes will rotate. Does it Make any difference Which way the water flows through the radiator? Also does it make any difference what type of trv valve I go for, it will be connected to a Wunda smart trv head? Regards. James

@Jenki The piping used is jg it has some movement but not sure how much pressure it’s going to be applying to the fittings. Are all the push fit connections equal in quality and fit plastic the same? I don’t mind paying a little extra for piece of mind. Thanks for the idea of swapping the pipes over as this might release some pressure on the bends, I’ll see how it looks. Also can’t seem to find any valves without the trv, don’t need them as I have some wunda smart trvs, can you recommend somewhere that sell good quality valves? Regards. James

Just about to start hanging 5 radiators, done abit of research and noticed these manthorpe radiator guides are not ideal when coming upwards from first floor. Don’t think it’s going to be possible to bend the flow and return to the level at which we need them. Would it be okay to put a 90deg elbow on the flow and return to get us down to the valve height? Looking at these valves, is the push fit compatible with all 10mm pipe? I’ve already purchased smart trvs so ideally need to find this without trv. james

@Iceverge @JohnMo, thanks for the advice. just worried that with a 2 port manifold for upstairs bathrooms and rads for 4 bedrooms it will short cycle/ be inefficient and cost a fortune to run. I’d like to settle into the house and see how the heating system works for us, before making any decisions but don’t want to wait too long and miss out on any vat. would you have downstairs UFH, upstairs UFH, rads all on the buffer? I will ask the plumber if he has allowed for weather compensation. james

@JohnMoWell almost a year has passed and our moving in date will soon be approaching, not sure if our “gas engineer” fully understands the concept of buffer tanks and short cycling. He’s first fixed without a buffer tank and I’m hoping it won’t be too much work now to integrate one. Id like the option to be able to control individual zones on downstairs UFH, I’ve already noticed some of the north facing rooms are noticeably cooler. Here’s a photo showing what we currently have. How difficult will it be to add a buffer to this system? to stop short cycling and maybe increase efficiency. I will speak with our plumber once I have an idea of what is required. James

That’s all we used, wood screws and Timco washers off Amazon. Make sure they are sunk in enough as we had to remove vcl tape and sink them deeper as dry liners said their screws will pop on their plaster boards. Regared. James

I will make sure I will take all safety precautions prior to any work and thanks for the advice. Regards. James

Thanks for the time you’ve all taken and there is some excellent advice. When I do get back there I’ll trace some of the wiring and do some testing, check out that fused spur too. This system has been working for years and I’m hoping it’s just the programmer but could be anything, is there anyway to test it? I’ve been looking at some of the YouTube videos you’ve recommended and I’ll keep watching, some great advice and they do simplify it when the system is stripped down to each component. It would make things simple if all wiring centres were wired the same. Regards. James

@ProDave @TonyT As soon as I go back I’ll try isolating the wiring centre with that fused spur and see what goes off. I did try that test which you said,not sure if anything was wrong. I’ll have to look at the wires and try following some cables to see what goes where and to what.

Thanks, been looking at the photos and the cable entries and trying to follow wires it’s a little difficult to see exactly where they go but I’ll look next time I’m there. Regards. James