Russell griffiths

As you said, saw cut.

Mine was rained on for a lot longer than that. Jusr ensure it’s all dry before you start sealing it all up from inside.

The word caulk is probably a poor description, it’s the stuff made by illbruck for window sealing. Not sure what temperature fluctuations you are talking about this is applied on the inside, where the temperature is fairly constant.

I did all my windows without a piece of tape in the entire house. Used the illbruck foam and covered in illbruck caulk, the one that comes in the sausage tube. Easier to do than tape, probably no cheaper. Air tested very good. I looked at the tape tape and it just looked like a pain.

How are they going to float? Are they not clipped down. I see loads that are not pressure tested, never Seen a leak yet. Unless your screener hits them with a shovel the likely hood of making a hole in the pipe is zero. The likely hood of a pipe coming from the factory with a hole is zero.

That is probably the budget package to get you interested. Pits down to the spec you want. You need to do the research on what insulation levels you want and find a frame to suit, if I was going timberframe then it would be minimum 145mm frame, 140mm pir with 50mm pir on inside. But that’s what I would use to build a house I was only going to live in for 5-6 years, any more than that and I would up the specto a twin stud wall and 300mm plus of insulation.

Just what mr punter said. I think your looking at the drawing and thinking the vent is the length of the wall, whereas it’s just a 225 section, position between beam ends.

Yes, exactly that.

Why not render it, I’m using the ewi226 as a render below my dpc.

Do you not have to first fix plumbing and electrical if so that’s a months worth of work, should all dry by then. My experience with rushing to get it boarded is you will get more cracking, I would not be in a rush to board it at all.

You need to put the gutter up first, or you just lift the tray up while you screw up gutter, it’s only plastic. Needs two people and don’t do it on a cold day or plastic can crack, nice warm sunny day. The guttercrest stuff is good, I have it in square modern look.

I thought this was a wind up so treated it accordingly.

If you want the second pic then you knock the first pic down. there is no loft conversion that is going to turn pic one into pic 2. Remember, you can roll a turd in glitter, but it’s still a turd.

✊?

My opinion obviously. If you use an aircrete block below ground you need a swift kick in the meat and two veg. Concrete blocks only for me.

I don’t like that the timberframe membrane exits behind the xps, I believe a tray type should be used with any moisture build up behind your cladding being shed to the front face not behind it. You also need more more detail on that drawing to show floor buildup, as it’s not clear as to if the 50mm xps will be enough to protect against cold bridges.

Old practice was to leave a brick out every so often to clean out the cavity, now most brickies are rough nobody does it, hence the poor quality of stuff being built. In oz you where made to hose the cavity before home time to clean it out.

Forget the trench blocks and just use a standard concrete block laid flat. Also your floor beams DO NOT. Sit on a mortar bed, they sit directly onto the last course of blocks.

I fitted all mine, big windows 125kg, big doors 250kg. I paid for fitters on the door as i wanted the extra warranty, the company wanted to charge for a spider crane and suction device, I told them we would supply extra labour to lift them. When the fitters came they said even if I had of paid for the spider crane they would prefer to lift them manually, they said the Crain is only any good for second storey windows in the region of 200kg, any less they just pick them up. 4 lads with a large sucker each and our door was in. Windows lifted to this second level with a genie lift.

We went with norrsken, very happy, we have some huge windows and sliding doors, front and back doors turn up next week.

Well that last one was a bit crap, what was the point of the cantilever? Looked like he spent £300,000 on trying to make it float when two columns could have probably saved him £150,000. As kevin said it looked like a bungalow just up in the air.

Why are you worrying about spending £60 on cement but then want to hire a pan mixer ? just chuck it in the mixer you have and you have just saved the cost of the cement. Use your Normal mixer but put a bit of wood under the back leg on the stand, this will put the drum flatter, and mix better. For 1/2 a m by the time you drove to the hire shop I could have it mixed and barrowed in. Dont over think it.

I believe they are fitted and skimmed up to. The internal edge you can see is part of the fitting.

They are good for loading loose stone and sand, pretty much useless for everything else. Get a tracked dumper and a 1-5 tonne excavator, both will fit through a 1m gap and have all the grunt you need. Dont buy toys to do proper jobs.

Without 100mm of insulation you are really loosing a lot of heat (cost) downwards.