Russell griffiths

Look on the board manufacturers website. And lots of glue.

You will end up with a house you couldn’t buy of the shelf, unless you are just building a square box.

You can staple to eps, no problem I put in a couple of thousand with the staple gun.

Still trying to get some samples sent out. Second time they have supposed to have posted them.

Try getting one off.

Soffit at window head is a standard detail on a lot of single storey builds.

I believe we have a big problem in our heads about u value. The standard Nudura blocks on paper look terrible, but combine that with good build quality and an airtight building and it’s all you need. In my humble opinion.

What do you mean by passive eps thickness. Nudura new blocks have something like 100mm inside and outside, why do you want the ply to attach things to, the blocks have the plastic ribs every 8 inches plenty of attachment points, this week I fitted 18mm osb over my walls in the kitchen area, used imperial osb and it lines up perfectly with the blocks. If you want a bare concrete wall then you can do it there, but no need to do it anywhere else. Dont make it harder than it needs to be.

You need to get a gutter bracket and roof tiles and work out if the bracket will fit on the facia, I have seen them in the past hanging off the bottom of the facia, this looks poo.

If your parge coat is a bit slap dash, then surely it’s going to make fitting battens a pain as you will need to add packers to get the battens straight.

All I will say is ONLY run them when you are on site, I make sure every night that I have unplugged everything before I Leave, I had a heater running from an extension lead the other day and when I unplugged it the plug was unpleasantly hot.

cancel your fitters for a week at least, your asking for trouble, I couldn’t walk on mine for 3 days, then I covered it to stop damage, it was still green 4-5 days after laying.

The thing I have learned over the years is that if I want to learn something new, then I look at how the professionals do it, what tools they use and so on. I really wanted to get better at painting, especially cutting in between walls and ceilings. you can go to all the home shows and buy fancy rollers with plastic guides that stop the paint getting on the ceiling. Or watch how a professional painter does it, they use a well worn in 3 inch brush, a steady hand and a good eye. if I was doing this job I would do it how a stone mason would, he would make his muck up and Chuck it against the wall, bedding the flints as he goes, keeping the gaps tight and even. no sticks like shit, no nuts and bolts, just bed them in. sorry @Onoff but I think you have gone off tangent so far, you need to go back to basics and just bed them in and point as you go.

If your 76 years old I would put 10 grand aside to cover your gas bill and spend the rest of your money going on holiday, sod the insulation.

That’s probably because you asked for eps100 this is not a stock item, but eps75 is, you just want the 75 as Peter said it’s on the shelf in wickes.

is it for expansion or to stop heat loss at the screed edge.

Picture taken from Facebook, no comment yet on how it started.

Metal solutions standing seam, the click together one.

I hope he’s not heading for a disaster, I’ve known 2 lads go from one bloke to dozens and they both went bust within 2 years, they just didn’t have the knowledge to play with the big companies and got Yakutia the cleaners.

When thinking of mine I went and bought a couple of lights, got off cuts of plasterboard and mounted the lights in the ceiling and wired them to a plug then with various extension leads got them all working, I soon found out I needed half the light I thought I needed. Also good for working out warm white or cool white. Cool white is harsh in a bedroom.

I would also look at your external skin for the walls. Forgetting daves dramas at the moment, it doesn’t strike me as a robust detail for your external walls. If your fixed to a rendered outside then I would fit a block outer skin with a good cavity between that and the frame. If not render then then I would look at larch cladding and again a good cavity between that and the frame. Or just go poly icf and larch cladding. Lots of good systems out there, but your location dictates that you need something a bit tough.

You need to look at your lighting circuits and intermediate switching, you might find that you need something a bit bigger than that conduit. One light switch I have has 16 cables going to it. 50x50 trunking needed.

It depends how you are building. Icf then talk to the icf supplier timberframe then they will probably have it all in house. Block cavity, ask on here.

Why leave the plasterboard up, rip it all out to expose all the studwork, you will need to satisfy yourself that is sound first before you cover it up with extra stud walls. Then make a plan, I would probably build a stud wall internally like you say and insulate both walls. Then air barrier, batten for services and then re board.

Google triton gas and waterproofing materials, it’s a liquid paint on stuff used for waterproofing, but is also gas tight so good for methane and radon barrier. The company does loads of different products. With regards sticking stuff to icf, I had the SIGA rep come out and he applied primer and tape to our walls that worked really good, but it was far to expensive for the linear metres I had to do.