Russell griffiths

Vastern timber then.

Astern timber are in the process of building their own kiln for this. they do lots of thermally modified timber. however suppling your own trees will not save you much. if you think a sawmill will pay about £1200 for an article load of poplar, then that is your only saving, you still need to transport it, cut it, then heat modification, then cut again, then transport back. unless you have all the kit to do this yourself then I don’t think it’s an idea. it’s like saying I have a load of clay can someone turn it into bricks for me. the raw materials are a very small percentage of the overall price.

Every reason to doubt them, do not confuse celcon with hebel they are like chalk and cheese. Get a blower test done before plastering or parge coat and I bet you will have a heart attack. A torch won’t show you anything. Any hole big enough to get light through will be a howling gale when you ramp the fan up on the air test.

I would ct1 it, but full bed with no voids so the tile cannot snap.

Ask for a break down on cost and get another quote. A mate of mine in London pays about £5000 for a tin hat on his loft projects and says they are worth every penny.

You know it.

Why are you building an icf house and fitting plastic windows? as far as I’m aware you will struggle to find upvc with a good enough u value, the frames are just not deep enough to get enough of a thermal break in them. Ive worked on 5 different new builds this year and everyone of them had aluminium clad timber windows. These also change your options on window location as the frames are so thick it takes up a big chunk of the reveal, which gives you a narrower cill. sorry but to me building a highly insulated house and putting in poor windows is a bad idea.

I thought it was harsh, we were having a good chat and thought we got on cool, but he obviously wants his extra fee. Fan was in back door, front door had a sheet of plasterboard over it all fixed in place with squirty foam.

Location please.

Did you get supplied with a certificate, I had a test done early to look for problems, but because I didn’t have a front door fitted he wouldn’t count it as a final test, so no certification, got to have another on completion.

Nope, don’t do it.

Self almagamating tape, wrap the whole run of insulation, or the wasps and mice will eat it.

If the roof shield is on it should be dry inside, is it not.

As above, buy bigger timber and trim it to fit better.

Yes nearly invisible. But I don’t know if it’s what I would use for yours, my timber is super dry and knot free, I’m hoping for zero movement so happy with a second fix nail, your timber is also heavy compared with mine. I would probably use a bigger fixing on yours. That wasn’t much help was it ??

It’s more bouncy than I would have liked, cold void underneath it.

We are on piles, ground beneath floor could not be categorised, so safe option is to span over it, then it can do what it wants, shrink,heave whatever.

10x£9000, you will spend that in a heartbeat, and then chuck in a load more. If the finished product isn’t worth £150,000 then forget it.

I don’t think you can use any of the crushed old house under your foundations, as they will not comply with any relevant standard. Use all the old house for driveway, and surrounding the house to keep mud down. You need to clarify what you want to build, and how you are building it. What levels of insulation you want and so on, foundation design will lead from this. There are dozens of questions on here repeatedly that say they need a thinner insulation as they cocked up the measurements and now cannot fit in the required insulation. Work out finished floor floor height and work backwards from there. If I had of had a choice it would be an insulated raft for the foundation. Unfortunately im on bad ground so ended up with block n beam which I don’t like much.

@SuperJohnG no second fix gun, so 16 gauge stainless t head. You can probably use first fix gun with larch if your having the more rustic look.

If it’s a soffit then it’s not going to pick up much weather. I face fixed all my cedar with the second fix paslode, from the ground you cannot see any fixings. Remember to not butt them up tight to allow for a bit of expansion.

I would talk to icf supplies in Essex, they will sort you out a contractor.

My supplier offered to take back any unused blocks, and then passed my details onto another bloke down the road who came and collected them, at the price I paid. Who have you used.

12mm start to worry. I put a frame up on a slab that was 25mm out over 6m was a pain, but once up and tiled you could never tell.

Have you spoken with the icf supplier to find a builder.