cwr

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About cwr

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  1. Hi folks Our first floor is pre cast hollow core which will have a screen over it, no UFH. My understanding is the purpose of the screed is purely to provide a level floor surface, particularly as the slabs are supplied slightly convex. Is there any recommended minimum thickness other than enough to creat a flat surface? Builder wants to put down nominal 50mm, but I think we can get away with much less. Want to keep it thin to scrape back a few mil of ceiling height. Thanks
  2. Just to add, the brickie had already built the blockwork and left out the pumice bits (who knows why...). Suggestions was made to fit twin wall stainless flue inside the blockwork, but I'm not convinced this would be a good idea. Poor access and I don't think would meet regs.
  3. Hi folks. This is the intended detail for how the twin wall from wood stove feeds into the more traditional chimney. All signed off by building control. However, builders have suggested bringing the pumice out at 45 Deg into the attic space. Seemed like gd idea to me, easier to attach the twin wall to, or at v least better access. What do we think?
  4. So, I spoke to the roofing sub contractor, who uses Proctor Roofsheild which is a breathable membrane which will be fitted with no sofit vents. So in effect giving a slightly ventilated cold roof, in as much as the ventilation is through the membrane. He also insists the counter battens are not needed.
  5. I've been wondering about this too, specifically whether 'underground' pipe and fittings can be used above ground if boxed in. Much cheaper and more fitting options (and I have a few spare bits) being my reasoning. I would imagine that the above ground stuff has additives to minimise uv degradation, but that would hardly matter for a boxed in installation. Decided to phone our local building control office (in NI) today to see what they though, they said no particular reason to not use underground parts if boxed in.
  6. Thanks for the replies. Enough to convince me to counter batten. Perhaps in the vid (which I'll watch this eve), what is the best detail for taping the membrane at its lower edge? Does the membrane not needed to somehow dispense any water into the gutter, but needs to seal to the inner leaf of the cavity wall?
  7. As much out of curiosity, whats the difference between a solar and a heat pump tank, that accounts for £521 difference in price? Both are 500l, the cheaper has 2 coils https://www.cylinders2go.co.uk/shop/renewable-energy/telford-tempest-500-litre-twin-coil-solar-indirect-unvented-cylinder/ https://www.cylinders2go.co.uk/shop/renewable-energy/500-litre-telford-tempest-heat-pump-cylinder-twin-immersion/
  8. Our drawings states that the whole slate covered roof should be battened and counter battened. This was the advice from an architect friend as best practice. However, the builder has announced that he only intends to counter batten the warm roof sections as there's no need for the cold roof parts. What are the thoughts on this? Should i insist on counter batons everywhere, over both cold and warm roofs? Thanks.
  9. "Is that a timber frame above ground level? Looks like very thick walls" It's block cavity walls, with 240mm cavity. Yes, nice and thick.
  10. This what I intend. Our cavities only go two courses below the floor level so not really much to build up. The 100mm of structural insulation below the door will be foamglas.
  11. Everyday's a school day. Perfect, thank you.
  12. Just got some decking planks to make steps for the static caravan. There's course grooves on one side, fine protruding ridges on the other. Wondering which way up to put them? Don't care about asthetics, just concerned about grip, esp in damp winter conditions. Thanks
  13. Thanks markc. Yes bottom chord is 138mm wide so good bearing area. I'll see what steel plate I have about the place, think there's some 6mm I could use.
  14. They're getting paid fixed price so I'm not paying by the block, thankfully. And, there was quite a bit of rework that produced a lot of waste (builder's mistake) as a couple of walls were redone. So a lot of what you see has mortar on it.
  15. Apparently we do. Probably not, and arguably shouldn't be distracting from the more important job of building the house... But if there's a few simple things we can do to make it more pleasant and keep everyone happy. And maybe help its re-sale value. Though in saying that, having second thoughts as a friend raised concerns about locking in moisture. Should we try and get a breathable paint, or leave well along, or are we worrying about nothing?