cwr

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  1. That's interesting. My recent updated quote is double what it was this time last year and now has '3x95mm WF to service joint' from pole to just beside house, then '1x35mm' from this service joint to meter box. Last year the quote was all '1x35mm'. I'm not expert enough to be sure, but that sounds a bit like they want to run 3 phase right up to my house? I must enquire to confirm.
  2. Yes, 10mm for everything except showers, baths and probably kitchen sink. I'm running mine in service void under ceiling. Not ideal to get at, but certainly easier than being buried under concrete. Hopefully never have to access again either way! I'm not going to. Relying on small bore pipe (10mm) to reduce time for hot water getting to where it's needed.
  3. Sounds like a home made manifold is the cheapest, and the most fun. Copper Tee, full bore 1/4 valve, then 15 or 10mm JG pipe. Just thinking of how to go from the 1/4 turn valve to JG pipe, can you put the male stem end of these fittings into a compression joint? ie at he outlet of the brass 1/4 valve.
  4. Largely thanks to this forum I am a definite convert to a manifold system for hot a cold water. But which manifold to use? Hep2o ones look good but are expensive. What other manufactures/brands are there? Or it is as cost effective to make up one's own?
  5. +1 for a contract. We used a RIBA template. A bit like insurance, hopefully you never have to look at it again. However, in addition to providing an agreement, the act of going through it line by line raised a few points that needed a bit more discussion and it acted as a good check list of items to review with the main contractor.
  6. I see that you can also get 'silicone silicate' render, for example from the EWI store. Is that a mix of the two? @MarkyP (and others) what is your opinion on that?
  7. We're provisionally going with K-rend thin coat which I believe to be silicone, as builder reckons it is better than their monocouche. We have found many and varying opinions though, so hard to figure out what is best... Out of interest, what exactly is a 'film based paint'?
  8. Thank you for the suggestions, have sent some ideas to SE and was hoping to get a response by now but he's been busy on other site visits so will now be after the weekend. I originally favoured slab on top of insulation, tho can't for the life or me remember why I moved away from it. Someone somehow convinced me to do so. Stone blinding already laid at the other end of the build, so need to consider a way forwards that either integrates with original plan or does not require excessive re-work.
  9. Not getting anywhere on this. Yes I can make 2 applications I am told, one for disconnection and one for new connection, but the latter won't even be quoted on until the disconnection is performed. I was kinda hoping to have both disconnection and new connection done on the same day. Even a day without electric we could live with. Is that too much to ask for...?
  10. cwr

    Heating the house

    Great stuff Yes! I 100% share your sentiments. And they say harvesting your own wood keeps you warm more than once, so true. Thank you for sharing the book recommendation, that'll be next on my list. Have you read 'Norwegian wood'? I was recommended it a couple of years ago and found myself obsessed with growing my own firewood and went and planted 900 willow and poplar to coppice for logs. I've been warned by several people that a stove in a well insulated house is an expensive ornament. You've clearly done it and made it work. Do you think that surrounding in dense concrete block helps dampen the heat release to the house?
  11. Yeah a slight slope, about 1m from one end to the other. I wanted to dig in a bit more at the top end but the founds got poured...
  12. In fairness the builders already have fine stone on site rather than sand. Yes floating slab for new build. So far the footings have been built to top level of slab, as per sketch below. I like the idea of more insulation as its adding something that will have more useful purpose. Only thing is to do that would mean slab top level to lower then where the footings now are so maybe not the easiest to level the slab? Proposal with lean mix concrete something like this. Think I'll need about 11m3:
  13. Funny enough I tried that about a year ago. Started of by phoning up NIE to ask if that could be done and was told yes of course, so I did the application showing the meter to go in an 'outbuilding' (would have built a 1m square block kiosk) only to be phoned back and then told that the days of putting meters in garages/outbuildings/kiosks etc are over and they must be on a wall of the house. Turns out the person who first answered my call wasn't really the right person to advise, and only said yes as they had their meter in an outbuilding that was installed years ago... Would have been really handy, as I would then have been in control (via electrician) of swapping over to the new build as and when required, and could even had a temp supply.
  14. I have on my drawings the following make up of the ground floor: screed insulation 170mm Concrete 150mm sand blinding 50mm DPM Type 1/hardcore compacted min 150mm, max 600mm I understand that there should be 600mm max infill. So does that include the 50mm of sand blinding? ie should Type 1/hardcore be max 550mm? Reason for asking is because top of founds to underside of slab goes as high as 950mm, so trying to work out how much lean mix concrete would be needed to back fill trenches.This being one of the structural engineers suggestions, and I suspect the cheapest. Cheers,