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Out of curiosity I asked my SE why he'd spec'd a UC for a horizontal beam and not a deeper lighter UB. He said due to torsional buckling. Slightly different situation as was supporting a wall, but no doubt you SE will have a justification for the choice.

+1 to what Declan and other responders have said. I got sign off a year ago (also in NI). About a week before we needed sign off I asked our BCO to come out and we walked around together, there were a few minor points which we then got sorted. Always found BC to be very helpful and willing to chat and give advice over the phone or to do a site visit. After all, their objective is to ensure a good quailty construction which is exactly the same as us self builders.

Velux windows are designed to work with or without counter battens.

It had sized up. Tried freeing it, but it's not great and still too stiff with the screws tightned. Looks a bit corroded inside.

I don't have a photo of it to hand, but the burner's model number has also disappeared over time...

Actually, looking at the data sheets they're not all the same, will study some more. Is it safe to assume the drive to them is all the same?

Yes, but there are a number of models it looks similar to.

Hi all I need to replace this oil pump from a boiler. It's a Danfoss, I can tell that much.... Unsurprisingly there appears to be a multitude of possible models it could be. Ideas ideas if where to go from here?

Hi all I've just replaced the pcb in my Vent axia sentinel kinetic. Upon turning back on, after its start up screens, it says rooms too cold to run the fan. As far as I am aware this is shown if the rooms are 5deg or less, but the rooms are at least 11deg. It's definitely sub zero outside though. I'm wondering if I have the wiring correct. I know I know I should have take a picture before, but the wires are coloured coded... Not so sure on the board though. Am I right in thinking the group circled in yellow are all for yellow marked wires (extract) and green for green? Thanks

Oh, and read up on your local regs in relation to protecting against spread of fire. May complicate things and impact door spec on the other floors.

I'm in the middle of converting my attic having recently moved in and having had pretty much the same plans as yourself. My trusses were at 400mm centre having given no thought to roof windows, would have made life easier if I had at least looked up the standard widths and space a couple to suit. Get in double trusses too where they will be needed. Watch for min max height of the lower openings if they are to be escape windows and also the distance down the roof the the eves, think its 1700mm max. Check head room on landing at top of stairs if it's under the sloping ceiling. Where are the stairs going, make sure they are drawn up to ensure they fit etc. I had our sparks run a pair of wires up for a ring for sockets, and supply for lighting. MVHR ducts, rad pipes, smoke alarm wiring also all worth considering if you meed any of them.

Follow Russell Griffiths example and not mine. I should have done an air test at shell stage before boarding, and regretted not doing so. Got a few leaks sorted when we finnaly did the test, but there was still something going on behind a boarded service void that was by then no longer accessible. For screed to walls I tapped with pro clima content solido. Possibly overkill, but we definitely didn't get any leaks there.

Does anyone have the exact definitions of these classes?

And just found out that keylite centre pivot ones are class 2.

Thanks for the replies. I've just found out that the top hung Keylites are only class 3 for airtightness. Don't know how good or bad that is? I got 0.92 for the whole house so don't want comprise on that. Apparently Velux are class 4 for the equivalent product, but are more expensive.