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  1. So move B closer to the house? I'd look into that. If there's a way to get the (new?) waste out in a way that you can get rid of A then even better.
  2. This is the detail. Foam glass under the threshold, beside the slab. Floor covering to be tiles or carpet. Should be ok to rest tiles on perimeter insulation, but carpet?
  3. Hi all I had specified 25mm PIR perimeter insulation at the thresholds, but the builders haven't bothered to fit it at the thresholds. The doors sit on 100mm of foamglass, so it's not without insulation. Liquid screed due tomorrow, should I fit the perimeter insulation this eve or leave as is? Screed will be on top of 170mm PIR, and have ufh pipe in. Thanks
  4. Good evening, The conundrum I am pondering today is how to extend a few 110mm pipes that come up through me floor. It's the one and only waste pipe bit i let the builder do (he insited he do the 110mm inside the footings...), and for reasons unknown he left some of the pipes sticking out of the slab by only 30mm. Next week the insulation goes in and then screed on top of the insulation. What i want is to have a push fit socket at finished floor level, about 225mm above the top of the slab. I thought it would be easy to extend the pipes, but a single push fit connector is too low, and two are too tall. Any bright ideas folks?
  5. Im thinking I don't much fancy options 1 or 2, parge coating going to be a pain now plastering is done.
  6. Thanks for the suggestions. After some experimenting i found that staples to the horizontal battens and a little tucking in under the vertical ones worked well enough. Two evenings work to do both sides, about 70m2.
  7. As the plasterers are nearly finished I need to finally figure out how to seal the walls to the floor. Cavity block walls, slab is down and we'll soon put the pir on it then dpm, then 50mm liquid screed with ufh. There's a dpc at the top of the slab level. Options as I see it: 1. Page coat from bottom of plaster (which is at top of screed level) down to slab, as one course of block is exposed. 2. As 1. but also additional seal to slab, with either airtight paint or tape. (Straddles dpc) 3. Wait until screed is down then seal onto it. Would be with tape as need to straddle the 25mm PIR upstand. 4. Something else...
  8. In fairness the guys are being picky with the weather about when to render (plenty to plaster on the inside on rainey days). So if there's any splashing from gutter to behind it then it'll not matter there's no top coat?
  9. Thanks for the replies folks. I'm perfectly happy making solder joints, but just like the idea of any joint being accessable. I'll put bends where the pipe has to come up, so just one joint to lengthen it if I can't find any 6m lengths locally.
  10. Is it ok to have plastic pipe right up to the boiler? I should have mentioned that one end comes up right behind it. I was under the impression that you should have the first meter in copper.
  11. Hi folks For the return pipe for our boiler stove I plan to run it in the floor insulation (floor build up: 50mm liquid screed over 170mm PIR over slab). Problem is I need about 3.5m run, so a 5m length of pipe is required. I really don't want a joint in the floor, tho there is a possibility i could put in a void in the screed to access at one discrete point. Can you get copper pipe 5m long?Any other thoughts? Thanks
  12. Some guttering appeared on our build today, despite the rendering not being finished. Is that normal/ok? There are two coats of base layer on but still to have the final Weber thin (top) coat applied.
  13. I think you can do either. I used both of the following: 1. 45 deg bends at the entry and exit of the straight through run of a 3 or 5 way to make a 90 bend. 2. A long rad 45 bend with no chamber at it. The theory being a long rad bend should rod through from the closest chamber. Where I did it nearest chamber was about 6m away. BC were happy with all I did. Give them a call for confirmation.
  14. Ok thank you, I'll have a good look over that forum. Any advise on the other questions?
  15. Hi all We're considering vinyl tiles, wood effect laid in herringbone pattern, in a large open plan area and a few smaller rooms off it, screed floor with ufh. Some questions: 1. We went round 3 suppliers, 2 have tiles with 1mm foam on the back and said lay them as a floating floor with no additional underlay. The other didn't have foam and advise laying using adhesive and no underlay. Which is better? 2. The screed is not yet down. Obviously it needs to be pretty flat, but how flat? Is there a BS or NHBC standard, or a tolerance that we need the screed guys to agreed and work to? 3. Should we lay these types of tiles under kitchen units and Islands before they are installed? I'd like to but think I read somewhere that's not necessarily a good idea. 4. Is it wise to have them laid through doorways, or should we have a break? Thanks!
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