Russell griffiths

When thinking of mine I went and bought a couple of lights, got off cuts of plasterboard and mounted the lights in the ceiling and wired them to a plug then with various extension leads got them all working, I soon found out I needed half the light I thought I needed. Also good for working out warm white or cool white. Cool white is harsh in a bedroom.

I would also look at your external skin for the walls. Forgetting daves dramas at the moment, it doesn’t strike me as a robust detail for your external walls. If your fixed to a rendered outside then I would fit a block outer skin with a good cavity between that and the frame. If not render then then I would look at larch cladding and again a good cavity between that and the frame. Or just go poly icf and larch cladding. Lots of good systems out there, but your location dictates that you need something a bit tough.

You need to look at your lighting circuits and intermediate switching, you might find that you need something a bit bigger than that conduit. One light switch I have has 16 cables going to it. 50x50 trunking needed.

It depends how you are building. Icf then talk to the icf supplier timberframe then they will probably have it all in house. Block cavity, ask on here.

Why leave the plasterboard up, rip it all out to expose all the studwork, you will need to satisfy yourself that is sound first before you cover it up with extra stud walls. Then make a plan, I would probably build a stud wall internally like you say and insulate both walls. Then air barrier, batten for services and then re board.

Google triton gas and waterproofing materials, it’s a liquid paint on stuff used for waterproofing, but is also gas tight so good for methane and radon barrier. The company does loads of different products. With regards sticking stuff to icf, I had the SIGA rep come out and he applied primer and tape to our walls that worked really good, but it was far to expensive for the linear metres I had to do.

Buy the triton, get two or three tubs as you can use it anywhere you want to make the block more airtight, window reveals and other stuff, you can also paint it on to get airtight tape to stick. Very little likes to stick to the eps.

I wonder how many answering on here have ever been in a situation like this trying to do this job. Screams to me that there’s a lot of armchair bricklayers popping up.

I would be very careful with this and wouldn’t believe a word of it. I used the triton TT liquid which is very good, then being a tight arse I used a solvent free black jack type product, it looked ok for 4 months but has now started to eat into the eps, I have to cut it all back and remove the blackjack stuff. It really needs to be water based and not bituminous based. Pain in the arse lesson.

There’s a bit of detailing missing. What is the house made of, presuming it’s timberframe then wouldn’t you have an external house wrap, if so I would want to see this come down and over the top of the upstand flashing. I would also want to see the wall cladding come down closer to the roof, just think of rain bounce up and you need. To ensure it’s not going to bounce up and go behind wall cladding and get behind flashing. I would want flashing secured to wall wall membreane brought down over flashing and sealed to flashing. Battens to come down to just below flashing to fix it all back to the wall. You must need some sort of bug screen also to stop anything going up behind plywood, this could be used to pin flashing back to the wall.

They come straight, lighter to use, longer lengths, mine were 10.9m with one central support. Do you have a design.

i did mine with i joist, there are loads of different ways, maybe put some pictures up. What was the problem with the Nudura build.

I have a major issue with icf onto an insulated slab, having built a house on a raft foundation we included a step at the edge, but seeing first hand how these are being built at the moment I really do not like the method of the flat slab with the icf sitting directly on the slab. There is a direct route for moisture to pass into the building at floor level. see rough sketch. @IanMcP you need to be a bit careful using Nudura standard details, as it’s all a bit Canadian and needs adapting to suit your site.

I would put the duct directly onto the blocks, then cover in insulation, but I would put thinner insulation to the side of the duct and bridge over the duct with a full sheet of insulation. Also add light weight stainless mesh to the screed over the duct area, just like you would reinforce concrete. Dont forget 10mm tiles take up far more room than 10mm when you add in adhesives and other stuff.

No trellis configurations needed, but if it is a vaulted roof you will need a restraint strap at the top end to prevent joists sliding away from the wall.

Chemical anchors and galvanised studs at 600 centres.

you don’t need to run a separate pipe from the man hole, my vent pipe at the end of the run branches off from the last pipe to exit the house. it then runs up the wall of the house. it doesn’t need to go above the roof line. If you can comply with below. it does have To go higher than any opening window. it must be higher than the roof if you have roof vents that vent the loft, so your pipe doesn’t vent into the loft.

Go and buy 20 sheets of that cortex plastic £3.50 a sheet in wickes and cover the whole floor, tape it together with gaffer tape. You will save the 60 odd quid in the long run by not having to scrape the floor off and having problems with tiles sticking if it’s covered in plaster dust.

As the other bloke said, why not make rough openings 70mm larger than windows 25mm insulation both sides and 10mm wiggle room and foam.

In the ceiling, it is far easier to cut a hole in a plasterboard ceiling to fix a problem then to dig up a floor.

You need to look at a product called LITE STONE. I’m using some outside for exactly the same reason, not happy with 100kg hanging of some wood screws. Pits basically a stone smashed up and mixed with resin then layer out in a sheet about 2mm thick, you stick it using a contact adhesive onto cement board or plywood depending if you want it waterproof or not. I was very surprised how realistic it is. And I normally hate most things I see.

You won’t get anywhere near that u value unless you increase the insulation somewhere, 150 isn’t enough. Despite what any manufacturer says. You need to also factor in the poor fitting of the product, so it might add up in a laboratory, but it won’t be up to scratch on site, the eps beads take out the poor bricklayers fitting by fully filling all gaps, add in the insulated plasterboard, and you have got a good outcome.

Mate. You are an absolute lunatic. ??

The second I read your size and design I said to myself £120,000. But I did think that would be erected, and felt n batten.