Russell griffiths

Nudura have just done two in Stroud, 3 storey bottom storey walk out, all cut into a shale bank. talk to Icf supplies in Essex. steve Burgess they supplied it. I went there to watch a pour being done.

So why not start a new thread with your question.

You will probably have far more than 1 pipe exiting from your slab, remember you cannot tee into a pipe under your slab as you wouldn’t be able to show how you can clear a blockage. So you will probably have a few pipe exiting. The main thing is making sure you have the fall to the tank, you need a 1::40 fall to the tank from the house. You also don’t really want the tank in an area you will have vehicles, you can no problem but you will need extra concrete and stuff to protect the tank, so better in a grass area out of the way. Get your floor plan with every single waste water pipe marked on it, toilets showers, kitchen, bootroom, laundry. You can then have a bit more of an idea. getting the soakaway to work is a different matter and you will need to look into a percolation test, you will need this for the rainwater anyway.

Why would anybody consider beco. Have a really good look and tell us all the things it hasn’t got. That will help you decide. Durisol. Oh ffs just don’t. Do a search, this topic has been covered many times in the last year.

That’s what I meant really.

Mix up another load of slurry, pour it on and level it out, fit 90mm of insulation and don’t tell anybody.

Drainage Chanel at door, or French drain arrangements and gravel strip against house

Standard 4inch door hinge fitted internal to the box with pop rivets instead of screws. Maybe ????

At the hut end you need a bit of imagination. I actually have a holiday cabin mounted on blocks above the ground, so similar to your hut, the pipe will come out of the hut and be visible for a bit before going underground, if you had a fall problem you could have the pipe above ground for the last bit and make the ground level up.

Your poo pipe will need to fall 1:40. So 1cm of fall for 40cm run of pipe or 1m of fall for 40 m run of pipe. You will need to lift the man hole closest to the septic tank and measure down to the base of the pipe coming in. Try not to get poo on your tape. This is called the invert level. The lower into the ground this is the better for you if you are some distance away.

Oh ok. yes it will be crap, haven’t used any like that since college in 1986. Just keep it wet, it will loose it’s workability really quick and you will need to keep knocking it up.

What on Earth are you doing ??? why the lime?? Do not add washing up liquid!!! 5-1 sand cement or 6-1 sand cement both with proper plasticiser if it’s underground 3-1 sand cement. And if it’s above ground and will be seen, just pay a bricklayer.

The roofs by me are standing seam so maybe not going to help. They have laid a flat sheet acros the top of the window for the full width, the sheets above come down and finish on this flat sheet. The width of the side sheets has been altered as well, so probably like you having a larger overlap on your corrugated sheets.

Why not put the first floor joists in, place a a row of acrow props under the floor as dummy support in the place of the stud walls. Then build up Nudura and fit roof. Remove acro props, don’t allow anybody upstairs, pour floor screed and replace one or two acro props to take any sag out of floor, then build stud walls removing props as you go.

You can buy cold galv spray in screwfix and toolstation. You will need to wirebrush it down and remove any dusty bits.

All the houses near me with metal roofs and roof lights have series of sheets cut to different sizes flashing around the window.

Grow a pair and tell her she’s wrong.

I used Icf supplies, they will rent them to you.

@nod you need to come back to this, he seriously needs your help. @pocster wait for nod, ignore all other stupid comments unless they involved mf metal ceiling stuff. Its like metal stud walling but for a ceiling. Hang on he will be back soon.

They don’t overflow. Depends on your length of run and how many linear metres of run between outlets. Builds over here don’t have enough outlets. So gutters overflow building regs in other countries are an outlet every 6m, but here we just have them on ends of runs. Deepflow if you have a large area and not enough outlets.

I would get tubs, delivered fresh every 3-4 days, unless you have 10 brickies on site a silo will sit there for weeks before it’s used. But obviously phone up and look at quantities and find out how much they will use a day.

Only 3 things I have not done. Piling. Floor screed electrics. Apart from that ive done the lot.

I’m not surprised your builder wants to use actis, it will save him thousands in labour cost. But it’s your house and your spec. Do you not have a drawing. 160mm of k7 is a good spec. If your worried about fitting then get a spec for the product and tell them that is the standard it needs fitting to, end of. Fit it correctly or f##k off. This insulation should have a layer underneath the rafters as well, to mitigate against cold spots through the joists. There is a product that expands to keep the insulation fitting tight. If your having a fight with the builder buy some of the GAPO TAPE to make his life easier. What is happening with a vapour control layer.

It will cost a fortune to get right, but if that’s what you want. We are having a timber ceiling, it will be 3 times the cost of plasterboard and paint, but I like the look so it’s happening. Fireproof coating again.

If they did put them in, would this mess up your floor finish, as you would need to carry the joint up through the finished floor.