Russell griffiths

That’s u value, not airtightness.

If you are considering passive standards then I thought bi folds where something to avoid, I was under the impression that they have poor air sealing that gets worse as they get older.

You need a trap for the washing machine, sealing the waste pipe on just let’s the smells out of the drum.

Quick response. Scrape off the blinding down to just a bit to fill in voids 25mm eps to squish down to protect dpm dpm 100mm pir concrete floor with mesh with ufh tied to mesh. Grind and polish concrete. Increase insulation if you have the height. If you don’t want polished concrete then finish the concrete well, thin coat of self levelling compound and LVT floor.

If you have a leak that needle will drop like a stone, it will literally flop straight around to zero. To give yourself a reality check, crack a valve open the tiniest bit, you will see an instant drop.

Don’t be bloody ridiculous

Remember to drop the pressure when the screed is in, the heat from the curing process increases the pressure. Mine hit 12 bar before I spotted it. ??‍♂️?

Why not change the outside cladding to non combustible.

1500x 1000 is a small window in my book, when they get to 3000x 1600 then they get a bit heavy, window fitting must be the most overcharged job going.

I had a design like yours so I spaced flow and return at 150 like the rest of the house so if you shorten the pink purple loop and space them evenly across that area. Lose all runs in hall and just cover with flow return.

Yep brilliant I have 4 of them.

As above, fat bloke knows what he’s talking about.

No idea, it was just suggested to me to have a bore hole instead of 800m of pipe.

Bore hole, takes up 150mm square.

Is that all you’ve got, I’m disappointed with the poor come back. ?

@willbish did his pipes in the slab, he set up a system with scaffolding boards laid on the finished slab to take the screws for the props. He has probably got some pics if you if you ask him nicely.

Don’t bother shaping the wings, form your roll on the ground and lift it up, the weight of the lead will lay itself onto the slate, then finish forming and trim wings when all in place, trying to make it tooooo accurate on the ground won’t work. Rough form then fit and tidy in place.

If it cracks then the bit of screed on top of the steel will just float and rattle about. I would mesh it and fix the mesh to the steel with tex screws and washers. Leaving a gap for screed to go under the mesh, so pack it up off the steel.

@Nickfromwales grafting. ?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

Looking at that stud they supply you could adapt that to have a threaded end that screws into a captive nut in the steel web. Cut out the screed in the post location, drill through steel, insert stud and tighten in web of steel. Or if your a bit clever install the stud in the steel now and screed around them.

Are you going to bridge the gap between steel and concrete with some form of mesh, I have used chicken wire in the past or a fine stainless mesh embedded in the screed.

So when your floor flexes what happens to the screed on top.?? its not a method I would want, has your architect done this before?

You don’t normally list anything under 75mm in diameter.

Just use the steel it’s such an easy thing to do. Bolt the timber in while on the ground and just lift it up and build it in.

Thought that block paving would not stand up too well, the pressure the front wheels on those trucks exert is something to be seen.