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DeanAlan's Achievements


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  1. Expectation is to dot and dab @jayc89. Already have INTELLO ceiling membrane in for first floor ceiling/roof. Have laid new concrete floors - need to get the walls airtight themselves and then seal against the screed floor and the ceiling membrane as well as penetration points (SVP etc). Intemediate floor joists are new web joists on bolted wall plates. Was probably going to passive purple over those and seal to the wall membrane (parge, plaster, airtight paint, whatever I go with). I had thought about wet plaster but very hard to find plasters that will do that these days.
  2. Hi all, This forum continues to be of amazing help. I hope one day I can give something back here beyond the comedy value of my questions πŸ˜€ Our renovation and extension project is now at the stage where we are about to dryline. But first I need to get the MVHR installed and do what I can to up the airtightness of the whole structure. We are likely going to use something like Blowerproof of Passive Purple on the SIPs extension. I want to do something for the original house which is solid brick wall construction. We've taken all the plaster off and down to the bricks (Cambridge hand made whites I am told they are) circa 1920. Very dusty, and mortar is quite crumbly. Questions: 1. Before I do anything for airtightness do you think I should look to get the physical structure of these bricks/mortar in better shape? Maybe something like a parge coat? 2. Would a parge coat (if done well) bring the airtightness up to a good level? 3. Should I then passive purple or blowerproof over that or maybe the same but directly onto the bricks as they are (which I don't think I could do with a brush, would need a spray version)? alternative ideas? cheers, - Dean PS just searched this forum on parge and airtightness and think I might have resurfaced a massive debate. I think the key difference in my question though is the starting point - an older brick wall / mortar, not nice new blockwork. We'll be dot & dab drylining over that.
  3. Great suggestions @dpmiller @Ralph. Was wondering about sealing with primer as we'll need to do that anyway. The Propolex might be the way to go. We have about 140sqm to cover downstairs and we're on cabredeck upstairs for another 100sqm. Trying to get the balance of spending for temporary works that is ultimately replaced v splinters and raw feet πŸ™‚
  4. Yeh we have some carpet tiles and we might grab some lino offcuts somewhere to use in the kitchen area and around the dining table. - Dean
  5. We're forced to move into our renovation project prior to being able to complete many things - and frankly, I think we can make better decorating decisions by living in the space for a while as well. We have a liquid screed based floor and wanted to know if there were cheap options for a temporary covering that would offer more wear and hygiene (washable). Ultimately we'll need to prime it and then think we are micro-cementing and Amtico or Karndeen but ahead of that any ideas? We might lay all our moving boxes down with gaffa tape (good for wear - for a few months - not good for hygiene). was thinking about cheap lino just taped down. I'm sure there are some bright ideas our there. Appreciate all (most πŸ™‚ ) suggestions cheers, -Dean
  6. Actually, the schedule for all of these windows (from the supplier/installer) - including the offending one - is "A"rates toughened 4-20-4 Argon-filled double glazed units. That certainly reads good and maybe I just need to tell BC "Yes". That would be one weight off my mind - assuming there aren't different grades of toughened? cheers, _DEan
  7. Thanks @MikeSharp01 and @Conor I see they are members of Assure, and others. - I don't see FENSA and they don't seem to be on FENSA web site either. As a Platinum Partner of Global Origin I had made some assumptions. The order form doesn't have 'toughened' specified - that would be easy. We already have them replacing that very same window with clear glass rather than frosted as it turned up frosted against our spec of clear. Unfortunately the replacement glass has been prepared (angled, not standard) and is due to be replaced but BC just picked up this other point.
  8. We just had BC inspection and they have picked up on an issue regarding the large window we have at the half landing of the stairs - apparently this needs to be toughened glass incase someone falls down the top half of the stairs, hits the full height window, breaking it and then falls out/over the cut class. I am principle designer / main contractor. The BC plans were put together by our architect., BC approved the plans which includes the window schedule/location/stairs, and our window supplier/installer (premium partner of Origin Global manufacturer) took those plans and supplied/installed those windows. I've got a horrible (expensive) feeling it is going to come down to me even though I paid professionals to do their job and provide appropriate advice. We haven't spoken to architect, BC or the window installer yet. cheers, - Dean
  9. Note - correction, I want to AVOID a handrail or ballustrade, divider down the centre of the lower flight. Maybe I will have one and it will be designed for easy removal for maintenance as @Adam2suggested πŸ™‚
  10. Thanks @Gus We're in Cambridge so our regulation are a little different that Scotland. This is a renovation as well - although the renovation took an 86m2 1930 3 bedroom right back to its bare brick walls, lowers ground floor, lowered intermediate floor and then added about another 150m2 is 'extension'. Basically a new house but technically a renovation and extension and I think that provides more flexibility - thinks like access as you say. The main question (and I am just preparing some material for BC to review) is whether I can get away with a handrail coming down the centre of the bottom flight where the intermediate treads are half width. Everything else will be well within regs I believe. I read somewhere that if the stairs are < 1m wide then you only need a rail on one side (ours would be on the left going up) but here there is some ambiguity about what the staircase actually is and if I don't need a hand rail do I still need a banister or some other barrier (glass) to stop people stepping off the the right side and suddenly having a 2xRise drop? Separate to this I actually want to recess the handrail on the left hand side of first flight and right of second flight into the wall as much as possible but that is a separate topic. I'll let you know what BC come back with. cheers, -Dean
  11. Thanks @Adam2. Our local BC (3C Shared Services Cambridge) seem pretty reasonable folk - I know that's not always the case. Probably best I just talk to them. cheers, - Dean
  12. I have the outline of the design for the staircase (aesthetically) and all the calculations of going/rise based on lower and upper finished floor height and available horizontal space. I'm primarily interested in things like banisters and balustrade requirements. I used StairBox to validate my math by the way πŸ™‚ The pinterest screenshot is what triggered my thinking for the design (although we are flipped to raise starting on the left). The graphic is my work up. The different grays are just to help me differentiate in the diagram. They will be micro-cemented MDF with American oak alternate tread blocks. I approached a bespoke staircase designer/fabricator and it was crazy money. Like Β£20K+. I know my steel fabricator can do the second piece of the half landing quite easily and the lower half is where the fun is from a regulatory/design perspective. Its construction needn't be expensive (MDF or HDF possibly with acoustic insulation below (in the void) to help give the impression of solid concrete). So open questions for me are 1) on the lower half, do I need a railing down the centre (yuk) or not? 2) can I embedded handrail (recess) within the wall on the left (my drawing) for thew lower half. Maybe I just need to work up the design in a little more detail and get their feedback on paper. Your continued thoughts are appreciated. cheers, - Dean
  13. Hi people. 18 months since we bought our brown field site and we’re finally approaching 1st fix. Yeh! We have a general staircase design in mind but was wondering if anyone knows of a service to validate a design ahead of BC point out a bloody obvious issue! Would BC take a sketch? Are there services out there to just provide validation separate from fabrication/installation? Basic stuff like rise and going are relatively simple but there are some but around balustrades, hand rails, changes around half returns that gets a little sketchy. I’m also looking into recessing hand rail into the walls for a real contemporary clean look and the regs in this area seem a little hard to interpret. cheers Dean
  14. We're renovating a 1930s semi (as well as a large SIPs extension) and having to move back in before fully completed. We're soon to build the stud walls on the first floor up to the original roof timbers. Ultimately we expect to use something like passive purple liquid membrane to provide the airtight for walls. I believe we need to put an airtight membrane above the replacement plasterboard for the first floor ceiling and have the liquid membrane connect/lap with the airtight membrane of the ceiling/loft at the ceiling/wall junction. What is the detail for stud walls connecting up to the roof joists? We need to get enough membrane in there, on top of the stud walls, so that we can then put the rest of the membrane in (lapped and taped) before we put the plasterboard in. I assume the membrane needs to go over the stud wall top, under the roof joists. Let me know where I'm going wrong here please? What products would you recommend? How does the stud wall connect to the roof joist with fixings that penetrate the membrane? cheers, -Dean
  15. Sounds about right @Russell griffiths! I might use 100mm where I can and then drop to 90mm in the offending area.
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