benben5555

Hi, Not sure if this exists but I'm looking for an air tight wall vent for our planned log burner. I'd like to have something that I can open when the stove is in use and then close off to an air tight standard when its not in use. The stove will have direct ventilation but I understand that when you open the door smoke can spill out if you don't have enough air supply in the room (house is airtight with MVHR). Thanks

Sorry yes, I meant service void

Hi, what timber have people used for their cavity battens. Roof battens (25x50) would seem to do the job, but I don't know if a untreated timber would be better. I can't seem to find much untreated wood of a suitable size. Thanks

Hi Guys, Any tips for which is best to install first? I feel that it would make sense to fit the terminals first and then cut the membrane around and push up over. What is the best way to seal the membrane after? Grommets?

Lots of insulation, very airtight! That's the plan anyway. I feel on top of that part, just didn't really consider the plasterboard fixings. I've been in the loft of loads of big estate new builds for my job and never seen a noggin. Pretty sure they just fix everything at 600mm centers

Looks like the easiest option might be to fit a 25x50mm counter batten at 400mm centers then. Would save cutting a huge amount of individual noggins. Plus I've already bought 12.5mm boards so can't really change to 15mm now.

Hi, We are moving on to plasterboarding with our build. The timberframers built everything at 600mm centers with no noggins. What have people done in terms of their plasterboard fixing centers? Take the ceilings as an example, one board would touch 3 joists. I could then fix every 300mm down each joist (longways) but there would still be 600mm gaps widthways. Do you noggin across the ends of each board and put another fixing in between each joist making the widthways fixings 300mm centers (at the ends anyway)? Any maybe one noggin in the middle? Just for our first floor this would be 350 noggins!

I found this conversion table on an Australian website. If the heat loss calc is using natural ventilation rates, 0.5 is the equivalent of 10ACH which is crazy and must be really affecting the calculations. The bathrooms at utility were calculated at 1.5 which would be the equivalent of 30ACH!

Hi, just got our heat loss calculation back for our ASHP. It details the room sizes, insulations levels, window sizes etc and finally the air changes per hour. All of the living rooms and bedrooms have been set to 0.5ACH and the kitchen and utility areas to 1.5ACH. Is this standard practice? We are aiming for a good air tightness (1.5-2ACH), but we will not be anywhere near 0.5ACH. I saw something on Heat Geek saying that the minimum requirement for a new house is 0.5ACH, but surely the heat loss calculation cannot be based on this which would be better than Passivehouse standard.

In the stud wall PIR or mineral wool batts between the studs (make it better by adding some insulation backed plasterboard on the inside). The other bit, if you want to do a proper job remove the soffit and then PIR the area and refix the soffit.

Hi, I'm building timber frame. Got 140mm mineral wool between the studs and then 50mm PIR over, then air tightness membrane over that. Have people taped the joints on the PIR with aluminium foil tape? Or is this not necessary given the air tight membrane will be going over the top anyway? Thanks

Hi guys, we've got polythene airtightness details over and behind the stud walls. What is the best tape to attach these to the airtightness membrane? I'm going to use a better quality membrane for the rest of the house, but this is what we were left with by the timber framers. I'm a but concerned about the tape not sticking. Has anyone used PHS Argo Plus Joint Tape? Seems very cheap compared to some other brands. Only £12 a 25m roll.

Hi Guys, I've got a 6.6m x 6.2m reinforced concrete slab to go down in the garage, on top of the beam and block floor, 100mm thick. To avoid future cracks do I need to include a movement joint? Or a crack control joint? I was thinking about laying in two bays, but that would take more time and cost more. Any thoughts?

There is 50mm PIR going over the studs internally. Frametherm 32 is about £24/m2. Rockwool flexi slab is £14/m2 (slightly lower thermal conductivity), has anyone used that?

What insulation have people used in new build timber frame walls of 140mm depth. Looking to use mineral wool batts or roll. There seem to be a few options (Isolver / Rockwool) but none seem to be readily available on the internet. I want something that is easy to fit and effective. Thanks