Russell griffiths

Nudura or jackon forget the other two.

I would use a pu adhesive, the problem with the illbruck stuff is it’s not designed to be left as a finished surface, as in it needs a covering to protect it from uv and other things like ants or anything else that might chew at it. so you would need to do two lines of pu adhesive with the expanding foam line down the middle. so you might as well just use the adhesive. will be expensive doing it with tubes, so the sausage type gun will be the cheapest method. If your buying it by the box you should get it for £5 a sausage.

Just beware that doing a site measurement could hold you up by many weeks, if the bricky builds up one bit then they come out to measure and say it will now be 6 weeks for fabrication and delivery. I see no reason why it cannot be built accurately to a drawing. The steel fitters are very adapt at enlarging a hole or two to get a leg bolted in the right place.

Re think your screed choice, you want cement based not gypsum based, so not anhydrite Anhydrite screed requires sanding to remove the top layer, it’s also a bit dicey getting tiles to stick to it.

A treatment plant will cost you £2500 to buy then fit and build the drain field. So your going to be in to £5000 materials only if you do all the work yourself including the digging. I would go for a 90m run to a main sewer all day long. remember with the water tread plant you have ongoing electricity cost plus emptying cost. I would give my right arm for a main sewage connection.

If I was replacing that I would do a new soil stack including a rodding eye and a vent pipe.

Just the one on the end of the run.

I brought a cheap £45 drill from screwfix as I didn’t want to bugger up my expensive drill, did 7 holes through 150mm concrete in an icf house and I couldn’t kill it, I really tried. Make sure it has a clutch and put the side handle on. If you don’t mind the mess set up a hose and dribble water on the core bit. Keeps the dust down also.

I have a 250m run to two holiday letts my first 100m is in 50mm it then breaks into two 32mm for the next 100m then 25mm to the cabins.

I understand that , what I don’t understand is not being able to find other companies, I walked around the NEC today and there must have been a dozen companies there that could do it.

Sand the pipe down, primer and paint to match house. on my last place all pipes where painted to match walls,

Nope, it’s known as a floating floor, all boards are glued so act as one sheet. I worked at a site that did this. if you stamped on the floor at one side of the room the telly would jump up and down.

Why??? Are they saying that’s big, or just too long and skinny. I have many windows far larger than this with a single pane. 2600x1500.

Proper machine there mate.

If you have a concrete floor and block walls, would it not be easier to use a liquid brush on product, no kneeling down. pour on and use a cheap broom 2 coats. Any big gaps you can incorporate a reinforcement mesh.

Under the slab, not through it.

You want to forget any type of lightweight thermal block if you are using stone slips, the adhesive will not like the thermal blocks, you will end up using so much primer and additives, much better of with an aggregate block.

Do you like the front door, it’s the same as mine, but haven’t fitted it yet.

And then it also depends on the mortar joints, they are nothing like as insulated as a block, so an as built wall does not add up to the stated value of a block, lots more things to add into the equation.

I think @ProDavebrought second hand, but I would only put them on a ground mounted system where it’s easy to play with them if one buggers up. There where hundreds on Facebook recently for £10 a panel.

On this forum it’s poor, on a housing estate full of Barrett homes it’s pretty good.

Not mandatory, just good practice. My accessible door is under a roof area, so no need for drainage.

Load of rubbish don’t do it.

Buy a roll of packing banding, then staple it, more ridged than string.

Your roof WILL be noisy. any vaulted roof without a loft space will be noisy. you literally have 300mm between you and outside, you would need some kind of miracle insulation for it to not be noisy. BUT you need to get this in context my roof is 300mm deep full of rock wool insulation with a pir board underneath, green coat standing seam on top when it rains I can here it without doubt. Can I here it over the noise of the radio, no I can’t. if I turn the radio off then most definitely there is a dull tapperty tap. but is it annoying ? Not to me, I quite like it. but is your vaulted metal roof going to be quite, NO.