Russell griffiths

tbh The mortar is probably stronger than those blocks anyway.

Has it not got a 90 degree turn on the end into the cavity. Many ways to do it. Some drill a hole in the block and put end in there some just hang the turned end into the cavity. But definitely not a straight tie just in a joint. Picture.

Upvc window trim, colour to match windows or render.

Have you had any timberframe companies come to site to look at access and erecting. You might find that they are more used to tight access than you think.

The problem with builders, unless you get a very up to date one, is they are living in 1980, I go on another forum just for builders and the amount of them building very badly insulated houses is unreal they think 100mm in the cavity is mind blowing and they are top of their game, 50mm under ufh and they want a Nobel piece prize. Do your own research and build it how you think is best for what you want to achieve and the site, don’t be led because he used it and thought it was straightforward, he might end up with a shite house whereas I believe you probably want something better.

From a legal point you need to remove them between September and beginning of March. Or you need to net them to prevent birds nesting if you have planning granted, then get it all out now. Sort your cil exception out first.

I did two layers for a few reasons. To stagger joints 150mm is a bit stiff and if your floor has any undulations I found the thinner layers conforms to this better. 150mm is a pain to cut as it grips the saw, thinner sheets easier to cut.

How has he hot it to stay up without screws.

Would you not use two windows joined at the corner one 250 wide the other wider with a small corner post.

Today my custom folded window Cills turned up, all folded at different depths to match the external cladding. Is it unusual that after I did a trial fit that I did a little dance around the garden whooping like a kid at Christmas, I don’t get out much anymore so I’m easily pleased. Glad the wife didn’t see or I would be off to the loony bin. ???

You need to watch out @Onoff the boys from American pickers will be round your place, I cannot believe you have stuff from 40 years ago. If I haven’t used something in 3-4 years it gets chucked out, cannot stand the clutter.

If you have enough 18mm to do half then you only need half the amount to cover the whole thing in 18mm, no step. You cocked it up once by trying to skimp, don’t repeat this. Cover the lot in 18mm, then go underneath and add in as many noggins as you can pushing them up tight under the boards. If you dont , it will sag and you will get puddles.

Dont do it, I did an extension at 2.6 m deep, it is the most ridiculous and dangerous thing going. Plus the cost of removing all the spoil. Get it piled, minimum mess, just right the cheque out and move on to the next bit. Now is not the time to be quibbling over 3 grand. You will spend £35-40 grand by the time you are up to dpc. It’s just what it is. Don’t even consider doing it in strip foundation.

My roof is noisy, but I don’t think it is any noisier than a slate roof, it’s the vaulted ceiling bit I think. No matter what build up you use you are only 350-400mm from you inside to the rain outside. Its not unpleasant but you certainly know when it’s raining.

I used a pre formed panel at 10960 long as I didn’t want joins as I have a low pitch 10 degrees. The job I’m on at the moment is being hand formed on site so any shape or length you want. I cannot believe for a minute that I could afford the hand formed version. Have you priced the different options up. I chose mine by getting some samples very early on and throwing them on the floor and standing on them with gravel stuck to my boots. The hand rolled aluminium version is very soft and I felt a twig of a close tree would leave a dent in it.

8-10 mm packer 30mm door lining 2mm gap 826 door 2mm gap 30mm lining 8-10 mm packer equals 906-910 ish rough openings.

It all has to comply with current standards, but the stuff from toolstation is very thin, I brought mine all online at a fraction of the price of the merchants. Just check it’s a reputable make, mine was all aquaflow.

How’s your guttering. Has it been overflowing and causing excess splash.

All of it. If you want that aqua base, then you might have problems, I’ve just been told none available until the new year.

As you said, saw cut.

Mine was rained on for a lot longer than that. Jusr ensure it’s all dry before you start sealing it all up from inside.

The word caulk is probably a poor description, it’s the stuff made by illbruck for window sealing. Not sure what temperature fluctuations you are talking about this is applied on the inside, where the temperature is fairly constant.

I did all my windows without a piece of tape in the entire house. Used the illbruck foam and covered in illbruck caulk, the one that comes in the sausage tube. Easier to do than tape, probably no cheaper. Air tested very good. I looked at the tape tape and it just looked like a pain.

How are they going to float? Are they not clipped down. I see loads that are not pressure tested, never Seen a leak yet. Unless your screener hits them with a shovel the likely hood of making a hole in the pipe is zero. The likely hood of a pipe coming from the factory with a hole is zero.

That is probably the budget package to get you interested. Pits down to the spec you want. You need to do the research on what insulation levels you want and find a frame to suit, if I was going timberframe then it would be minimum 145mm frame, 140mm pir with 50mm pir on inside. But that’s what I would use to build a house I was only going to live in for 5-6 years, any more than that and I would up the specto a twin stud wall and 300mm plus of insulation.