Russell griffiths

I have had to call various companies lately for advice or a warranty issue. Out of 5 companies 3 of them I might have well phoned my 80 year old mother in law as she would have had more knowledge than the dimwit on the phone. The two people that where brilliant where both the owners of the companies, and actually cared that I got the right product and used it correctly. As soon as they get big enough to need a call centre, they take their eye of the ball.

I think your right with the tiles or stone, I think it depends on the weight per metre, I have seen brick slips and composite tiles direct fixed. But they are obviously a lot lighter.

Not really following this, what wall finishes are you talking about that you can use on one system but not another. I cannot think of a single wall finish that cannot be used on all icf.

If you think all these things are the same for all icf, then you need to look closer. Some woodcrete icf doesn’t have a continuous concrete core, so inherently not airtight. Some woodcrete does not have a continuous core at the corners, one I worked on you could actually see daylight through the blocks at the corners. Most woodcrete has a substantial water, damp bridge at the window reveals. All these things can be overcome but at what cost. If they are cheap enough to cover the extra work then that’s fine, you save it in one hand and pay for it later down the line. Hence my remarks on wanting it at half the cost of the product I used, Nudura Now I’m not a Nudura rep, but I found a product that fitted what I wanted without any extra airtight layers or additional dramas. The only thing I don’t like is trying to get any tape to stick to it, it’s a total pain.

To much to list here, do a bit of research and see what you think.

If going Nudura you only use two blocks, standard straight and corners. All corners are multi directional, so you don’t have a right or left just one block you flip over to do both jobs. I would add it up very quickly and get a price agreed. Nudura depot in Essex so you can pick up the extras anytime with a small truck. If I had my planning in place for my next build I would have brought it all the same day he advertised it.

@IanMcP have you contacted the bloke on here selling the Nudura.

Nudura this is what I used. Downside, pita to get any tape to stick to it, you need to primer all surfaces to get tape or sealant to stick. Durisol. You would need to give me this free to even entertain using it. Isotex. Again it would have to be under half price of the Nudura to make me even think about it. Velox. You would need to pay me £20,000 plus to even get this through the gate at my place. Isodom. I have no experience of this product amvic. One I priced up, but at the time the company was in a bit of bother so I didn’t pursue it, I believe @willbish used it. Beco. Doesn’t have any form of plastic or metal web, instead it is relying on poly webs for its structure, this doesn’t give it any method of fixing to the lock apart from going right through to the concrete core. Very outdated in my opinion. My views are based on having worked on a number of icf builds these last 2 years, not just reading their website or brochure.

If you believe this you probably sat up waiting for a fat bloke in a red suit to come down your chimney.

Waste of time, don’t do it. Insulate the floor as much as you can and fit radiators, ufh will be very expensive to run if your heating the ground beneath your house.

What do you want to know ?? i poured at 2.7m high, and then at 5.3 finish height. Certain areas must be poured as one, if you have a large lintel over an opening you need to pour up to that height and above it by 450 ish to gain the strength that a monolithic concrete pour is for, standard doorways will have very little steel, so gain the strength from 3-400 mm of concrete poured in one go over the heads of the doors, windows. I used Nudura, there is a guy on here selling a whole house worth of Nudura as he has changed his mind, could be a bargain there for you.

I would make her knock it down because it looks shite.

movement joint at every door, purposely set off centre to line up with under the door, so when tiled the movement trim is hidden under the door. This one has a sliding door face fitted to that wall.

This does depend on how much you are talking about overhang wise, and also roof pitch. With a steep roof 30degrees plus you find that the wider your soffit the further the roof line comes down the walls, sometimes coming down as far as the tops of the upstairs windows. Its really all down to your roof and house design. A bit too general to answer without a diagram. I have soffit depths that range from 450mm to 1800mm.

Don’t fit any kitchen doors or end panels the moisture in the building drying will bugger it all up.

Told ya.

Anybody else got anything, help this bloke out.

Bigger is always better.

Have you priced up any materials lately. since I started my project all materials have at least doubled in price. And there are talks that anything aggregate related will have another 20% on it next year. Then you have the labour any good lads are realising that they have been underpaid for years so anybody good is charging top dollar. So to get it cheaper you will get the rough lads. you say that retail has big markup, well you are not removing that, unless you remove the builders merchants. How are you buying your materials unless you buy from a merchant. you can buy blocks from the manufacturer, but you will need to buy an attic load for them to even talk to you. I would be very careful of a spread sheet with costs, as I think on a one off house you will be surprised how many little things happen on site that are not costed, you need a big contingency. then you will find the self build tax that trades will put on, if you build anything that looks slightly fancy you will be hit with inflated prices, as they think you are loaded. there are big savings to be made project managing yourself. but don’t for a minute get the idea that a £500,000 project can be built for £350,000, the only way to do that is either do 90% yourself or cut corners. im doing this right now trying to save £200,000 on the build and the only way is doing it myself.

Are you thinking it should be more or less. If you think it’s less in this current world we are in you are dreaming. the only way to bring it in cheaper is to do 90% of the work yourself or build something just as bad as the bulk house builders.

All I would add is change up your 40mm runs to 50mm.

How did she think you where going to catch it ?? here ratty ratty, come and get some cheese.

Why would you want to leave out the glue or the screws??? save £20 and regret it later, glue the bugger out of it.

I’ve read that one @Onoff but isn’t there a clear diagram somewhere, i just find it more confusing than it should be. But I am a bit slow, not like @nod who is the forum ninja.

Morning peeps, can anybody point me at a drawing showing dimensions of disabled ramp to a door for a new build. Interested in size of flat area outside door and also ramp slope angle. Ta very much.