Russell griffiths

Buy the triton, get two or three tubs as you can use it anywhere you want to make the block more airtight, window reveals and other stuff, you can also paint it on to get airtight tape to stick. Very little likes to stick to the eps.

I wonder how many answering on here have ever been in a situation like this trying to do this job. Screams to me that there’s a lot of armchair bricklayers popping up.

I would be very careful with this and wouldn’t believe a word of it. I used the triton TT liquid which is very good, then being a tight arse I used a solvent free black jack type product, it looked ok for 4 months but has now started to eat into the eps, I have to cut it all back and remove the blackjack stuff. It really needs to be water based and not bituminous based. Pain in the arse lesson.

There’s a bit of detailing missing. What is the house made of, presuming it’s timberframe then wouldn’t you have an external house wrap, if so I would want to see this come down and over the top of the upstand flashing. I would also want to see the wall cladding come down closer to the roof, just think of rain bounce up and you need. To ensure it’s not going to bounce up and go behind wall cladding and get behind flashing. I would want flashing secured to wall wall membreane brought down over flashing and sealed to flashing. Battens to come down to just below flashing to fix it all back to the wall. You must need some sort of bug screen also to stop anything going up behind plywood, this could be used to pin flashing back to the wall.

They come straight, lighter to use, longer lengths, mine were 10.9m with one central support. Do you have a design.

i did mine with i joist, there are loads of different ways, maybe put some pictures up. What was the problem with the Nudura build.

I have a major issue with icf onto an insulated slab, having built a house on a raft foundation we included a step at the edge, but seeing first hand how these are being built at the moment I really do not like the method of the flat slab with the icf sitting directly on the slab. There is a direct route for moisture to pass into the building at floor level. see rough sketch. @IanMcP you need to be a bit careful using Nudura standard details, as it’s all a bit Canadian and needs adapting to suit your site.

I would put the duct directly onto the blocks, then cover in insulation, but I would put thinner insulation to the side of the duct and bridge over the duct with a full sheet of insulation. Also add light weight stainless mesh to the screed over the duct area, just like you would reinforce concrete. Dont forget 10mm tiles take up far more room than 10mm when you add in adhesives and other stuff.

No trellis configurations needed, but if it is a vaulted roof you will need a restraint strap at the top end to prevent joists sliding away from the wall.

Chemical anchors and galvanised studs at 600 centres.

you don’t need to run a separate pipe from the man hole, my vent pipe at the end of the run branches off from the last pipe to exit the house. it then runs up the wall of the house. it doesn’t need to go above the roof line. If you can comply with below. it does have To go higher than any opening window. it must be higher than the roof if you have roof vents that vent the loft, so your pipe doesn’t vent into the loft.

Go and buy 20 sheets of that cortex plastic £3.50 a sheet in wickes and cover the whole floor, tape it together with gaffer tape. You will save the 60 odd quid in the long run by not having to scrape the floor off and having problems with tiles sticking if it’s covered in plaster dust.

As the other bloke said, why not make rough openings 70mm larger than windows 25mm insulation both sides and 10mm wiggle room and foam.

In the ceiling, it is far easier to cut a hole in a plasterboard ceiling to fix a problem then to dig up a floor.

You need to look at a product called LITE STONE. I’m using some outside for exactly the same reason, not happy with 100kg hanging of some wood screws. Pits basically a stone smashed up and mixed with resin then layer out in a sheet about 2mm thick, you stick it using a contact adhesive onto cement board or plywood depending if you want it waterproof or not. I was very surprised how realistic it is. And I normally hate most things I see.

You won’t get anywhere near that u value unless you increase the insulation somewhere, 150 isn’t enough. Despite what any manufacturer says. You need to also factor in the poor fitting of the product, so it might add up in a laboratory, but it won’t be up to scratch on site, the eps beads take out the poor bricklayers fitting by fully filling all gaps, add in the insulated plasterboard, and you have got a good outcome.

Mate. You are an absolute lunatic. ??

The second I read your size and design I said to myself £120,000. But I did think that would be erected, and felt n batten.

I have had to call various companies lately for advice or a warranty issue. Out of 5 companies 3 of them I might have well phoned my 80 year old mother in law as she would have had more knowledge than the dimwit on the phone. The two people that where brilliant where both the owners of the companies, and actually cared that I got the right product and used it correctly. As soon as they get big enough to need a call centre, they take their eye of the ball.

I think your right with the tiles or stone, I think it depends on the weight per metre, I have seen brick slips and composite tiles direct fixed. But they are obviously a lot lighter.

Not really following this, what wall finishes are you talking about that you can use on one system but not another. I cannot think of a single wall finish that cannot be used on all icf.

If you think all these things are the same for all icf, then you need to look closer. Some woodcrete icf doesn’t have a continuous concrete core, so inherently not airtight. Some woodcrete does not have a continuous core at the corners, one I worked on you could actually see daylight through the blocks at the corners. Most woodcrete has a substantial water, damp bridge at the window reveals. All these things can be overcome but at what cost. If they are cheap enough to cover the extra work then that’s fine, you save it in one hand and pay for it later down the line. Hence my remarks on wanting it at half the cost of the product I used, Nudura Now I’m not a Nudura rep, but I found a product that fitted what I wanted without any extra airtight layers or additional dramas. The only thing I don’t like is trying to get any tape to stick to it, it’s a total pain.

To much to list here, do a bit of research and see what you think.

If going Nudura you only use two blocks, standard straight and corners. All corners are multi directional, so you don’t have a right or left just one block you flip over to do both jobs. I would add it up very quickly and get a price agreed. Nudura depot in Essex so you can pick up the extras anytime with a small truck. If I had my planning in place for my next build I would have brought it all the same day he advertised it.