Mr Punter

I have looked at part complete building projects for sale in the past and they are very cheap compared to full market price. One in particular looked mostly completed, did not have building regs final, shockingly poor brickwork, cracks around ceilings and bouncy floors. All doable but not mortgage-able. Ended up selling for about 50% discount. If your completed dream house were worth £700k it is unlikely that the bare plot is worth more than £350k and if repossessed could net just £200k for your lender after fees.

I think you may be able to get another firm to do the electrics but I doubt you will save anything. You cannot DIY gas or electric. Regarding the water, if the meter is not in your way you can turn it off at the meter and terminate it anywhere on your property. A standpipe on a post somewhere is a favourite. You may want some water for the site hut or temporary accommodation.

With some ICF systems it is possible to cut the blocks or chock them up a little. You could also consider a levelling screed. Ask your ICF people what they would suggest.

I have had a house with UFH. Some rooms had carpet, some engineered oak floor and some tiles. The heating worked fine in all areas. The carpeted rooms seemed slightly slower to warm up and the tiled ones quickest.

Perhaps @pocster may want to look at this before he orders his front door.

@joe90 what result do you need? You should get less than 5 without even trying.

Thanks Jeremy. I did the magnet test and it is non-magnetic. The door people say it is 316 and I have no reason to disbelieve but I cannot work out why they look so bad. The door people have just got back to me saying "I appreciate that you spent this sum of money with us and in return we provided goods and works to the value of £29k. However, that does not remove the responsibility of the properties occupiers to maintain the goods in an appropriate manner and it would appear that no maintenance has been undertaken since the doors were fitted. This is not our responsibility to rectify and whilst I understand you feeling our position is not satisfactory, it is not unreasonable given the circumstances. I take no pleasure from these situations and it’s saddening to see our product neglected to such a condition." I really did not expect to have a maintenance program on external stainless steel handles!

The current development has a fair bit of stainless steel externally - most of it is 316 grade. We have lots of horizontal balustrades, as well as lettterplates and escutcheons. All have performed well except for the front door handles, which appear a bit corroded. We have 8 of these doors on the development and they cost £3,600 each. They were installed less than 18 months ago and when I contacted the manufacturer they did a sloping shoulder, saying they should be cleaned with specialist product. I would not expect door handles to be subject to some regular maintenance routine. What should I do?

If you are able to pay for the rest of the work without needing to borrow further funds, You have fixed price costings, you are using contractors who are experienced in delivery such projects, you have a programme of works with a fixed end date and you can demonstrate this to your lender, then as long as you continue to make payments you may be OK. Put your evidence to them clearly and professionally, as you may need to rely on it in court should they seek possession.

I am intrigued that the lender got wind of what was going on. Any ideas how, @John Cain?

I am always suspicious when is is near impossible to get a price on the internet for a product like this.

Option 2, but make sure the IC is close to the main run and join it with a Y, not a tee.

I understand that you would only be liable for CGT if the total plot is over half a hectare. What tax did HMRC have in mind?

Could you prise up the offending rows, put the pieces through a thicknesser and refix?

To get your half bag of cement, cut the bag in half with an old saw. The result is quite easy to empty into the mixer.

I am not sure of your mother's age or state of health, but gaining planning consent and constructing a new house takes years rather than months time and she would be living alongside a building site for a fair while. If you gain consent for the new house she could sell the plot separately without any tax liability and use the money to refurb her current house and perhaps invest in a flat as a buy-to-let.

It looks like you have used C studs and have them 90 degrees the wrong way round

I don't know why the t/f co. are not able to make this work with the approved plans? 175mm ridge height increase means a new application for the amendment or risk being in breach. Do your planning drawings show any heights, datums or reference points?

I don't get what you have done here. When I have seen this the membrane is fixed to the wall with properly watertight fixings, then the u=channel is fixed ceiling and floor with a small gap to the membrane and the I studs are located in the channel and fixed with the stubby fat head screws. You can't just screw through the membrane as it needs to be completely sealed. The idea is you build an independent wall on the dry side of the membrane using u track and I studs. Is there a perimeter drain, sump and pump to be included?

I am no expert but if that is going to be a cupboard then gas and electric in there together must be a no-no.

You could try https://www.justdoorsuk.com/composite-fire-doors.php I have bought from them before. Phone them if you are unsure what you need. They were fairly helpful with me.

I think you will be fine if you move the WC to the left a bit.

Unless there is an aesthetic reason to fit Lindab, plastic is a lot cheaper and easier to fit and will outlast most of us. If you are going with Lindab you should use proper cutting shears. Chop saw and holesaws are not allowed as the cuts need to be clean for the galv to work.

I would fill with concrete as you build up.

To prevent mortar staining. Also see diesel used on blue bricks.