Mr Punter

In the past we have dug trial holes and as long as the ground is OK for a standard foundation that is all we have done. Ask Building Control what is normally acceptable for the location. If you need special foundations you will need a proper geotechnical report.

As long as they are pressure treated and good quality (fairly knot free, straight, no splits) it does not matter. The BS ones are graded to ensure the safety of people working on the roof, as well as the ability to support the roof covering. You may find 38 x 50 less available as BS.

You could specify a fireman's switch. Get the gate automation and access control supplied and fitted by a professional as there is plenty to mess up and some crappy stuff on the market.

For horizontal cladding, fix 38 x 50 battens at min 600 (prefer 400) centres. If you find this will stick out too much, use 25 x 50 battens.

With @joe90's house does anyone know approximately what difference to annual running costs the difference between this test result and, say 0.6 would make? Does 1.0 really make much difference?

We have Mercury - very expensive but it cooks fairly evenly. My brother has Lacanche and it does not cook evenly, the control knobs get really hot and cannot be read and the auto ignite is either missing or broken. Bertazzoni look fab but are poorly reviewed. We used to have an Aga in a previous house. It was just crap to cook with - no control at all over the temperature, but at the time they were on trend.

I have tried both but I am currently on a range cooker, which I quite like. I don't like the bank of tall units fashion much.

Unless you cannot afford to do the work, need a second loan / refinance etc, I think you can take the email on face value and go ahead. It is up to your lender to make sure their advisers give clear and accurate information to customers. I still can't work out how the lender found out in the topic though...

Tile adhesive will be fine.

Well you are a cheap date!

I think 2 people could do this. The rate will depend on the layout of the space. They may need to use special levelling clips. The floor will need to be completely flat as will the tiles. At least the grouting should be easy! You can get a Rubi type manual cutter for 1200mm tiles, or you are into a power cutter. Budget £3,000-£4,000 inc adhesive and grout.

I am keen on clay paving if the budget allows. I does not fade and it weathers nicely.

I hope that is block paving onto sharp sand with kiln dried joints as even then that is a lot of work.

I have looked at part complete building projects for sale in the past and they are very cheap compared to full market price. One in particular looked mostly completed, did not have building regs final, shockingly poor brickwork, cracks around ceilings and bouncy floors. All doable but not mortgage-able. Ended up selling for about 50% discount. If your completed dream house were worth £700k it is unlikely that the bare plot is worth more than £350k and if repossessed could net just £200k for your lender after fees.

I think you may be able to get another firm to do the electrics but I doubt you will save anything. You cannot DIY gas or electric. Regarding the water, if the meter is not in your way you can turn it off at the meter and terminate it anywhere on your property. A standpipe on a post somewhere is a favourite. You may want some water for the site hut or temporary accommodation.

With some ICF systems it is possible to cut the blocks or chock them up a little. You could also consider a levelling screed. Ask your ICF people what they would suggest.

I have had a house with UFH. Some rooms had carpet, some engineered oak floor and some tiles. The heating worked fine in all areas. The carpeted rooms seemed slightly slower to warm up and the tiled ones quickest.

Perhaps @pocster may want to look at this before he orders his front door.

@joe90 what result do you need? You should get less than 5 without even trying.

Thanks Jeremy. I did the magnet test and it is non-magnetic. The door people say it is 316 and I have no reason to disbelieve but I cannot work out why they look so bad. The door people have just got back to me saying "I appreciate that you spent this sum of money with us and in return we provided goods and works to the value of £29k. However, that does not remove the responsibility of the properties occupiers to maintain the goods in an appropriate manner and it would appear that no maintenance has been undertaken since the doors were fitted. This is not our responsibility to rectify and whilst I understand you feeling our position is not satisfactory, it is not unreasonable given the circumstances. I take no pleasure from these situations and it’s saddening to see our product neglected to such a condition." I really did not expect to have a maintenance program on external stainless steel handles!

The current development has a fair bit of stainless steel externally - most of it is 316 grade. We have lots of horizontal balustrades, as well as lettterplates and escutcheons. All have performed well except for the front door handles, which appear a bit corroded. We have 8 of these doors on the development and they cost £3,600 each. They were installed less than 18 months ago and when I contacted the manufacturer they did a sloping shoulder, saying they should be cleaned with specialist product. I would not expect door handles to be subject to some regular maintenance routine. What should I do?

If you are able to pay for the rest of the work without needing to borrow further funds, You have fixed price costings, you are using contractors who are experienced in delivery such projects, you have a programme of works with a fixed end date and you can demonstrate this to your lender, then as long as you continue to make payments you may be OK. Put your evidence to them clearly and professionally, as you may need to rely on it in court should they seek possession.

I am intrigued that the lender got wind of what was going on. Any ideas how, @John Cain?

I am always suspicious when is is near impossible to get a price on the internet for a product like this.

Option 2, but make sure the IC is close to the main run and join it with a Y, not a tee.