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About deuce22

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  1. Ok. I'll do just that. Can you tell me why you'd want more over the top. I'd like to have a reason for him. I did say it needed covering completely, but he had an answer for not doing it. Thanks.
  2. Hi. Sorry to drag this on, but I just want to make sure things are being done correctly. I've spoken with the guy today and he has said the following. The concrete is used to anchor the plant in, not to protect it as if the ground was dry there is no need for concrete around it at all. The concrete is 200mm below the inlet pipe, so it has reached a level where it is impossible for that to lift. It couldn't even be pulled out now with machinery, it would just be ripped apart. As there is a pump station within 6m of the plant, it is highly unlikely that there would be a blockage within that run, but if I want he will put a chamber in where the house drainage connects. He has used long radius bends for the outlet as there is no need for a chamber due to it only being water discharged. Again, he will put a chamber on one of those bends if I want as high flex rods will be able to rod the other bend. The final outlet into the watercourse will be fitted with a non return valve and go directly into an open ditch/stream. There is no need for a test chamber as samples can be taken from this open end. He is now going to back fill around the rest of the plant with hardcore/tarmac planings as you need a material that keeps as much surface water out rather than using a free flowing gravel. He said it is the same when I come to waterproof the house. I know the waterproofing company has told me to compact the earth backfill in layers, on top of the land drain/stone/geotextile, to reduce as much water actually getting in. Does all this seem reasonable? Thanks.
  3. The garage has a shower room downstairs and a 1 bed flat above, so that is why I went down the pump station route. The drainage for the house links into the drainage coming from the pump station about 1m after the connection between the 60mm and 110mm pipes. It is on a Y connection. As the house is higher than the garage it does not need any assistance from the pump. I spoke with somebody today about the drainage and they said a similar thing about inspection chamber slowing the flow and potentially causing problems. They've told me to put a rodding point on the run coming from the house, a chamber on the run between the pump station and plant and a testing chamber on the 45 degree bend on the outlet pipe. The reason it was install this way is, that it was better to have more of the bends on the outlet pipe as it is less likely to block with only water running through. If it was turned 90 degrees there would have been more bends on the inlet pipe.
  4. Thanks very much for that PDF, I'll take a good look through it. The setup at the moment is, I've got one drainage pipe exiting the garage and going directly into a 450l pumping station. I needed this because the plant lifted when pouring concrete. However, as the garage is lower than the house, I do not need the drainage for the house to go into a pumping station. It joins onto a y connection about a metre past the join between the 60mm pump station pipe and 110mm underground pipe. The fall for the house drainage pipe is fine on it's own, but as I've got the pump station installed it will also pump what is coming from the house further down the line. I have tried to keep all connections as either a long radius bend or 30 and 45 degree bends. I was told to use these as they can be rodded easier than a standard 90 degree bend. I'm thinking of putting a chamber within the first few metres of the outlet, but will now change this to a testing chamber. I'm also thinking of putting another one in place of the y connection, so I will now have 1 just before and 1 just after. I've connected a non return valve onto the 110mm pipe that enters the pump station. If the sewage pump fails and the tank fills nothing will come back through the pipe into the garage. I will then have to renew the pump. As the garage will be temporary accommodation for us whilst i'm building the house, it will have a small amount of use after we move into the house.
  5. Ok, thanks. I'll add some small inspection chambers where needed.
  6. Do you need an inspection chamber on a 45 degree bend? I was told it was only on a 90 degree bend. The 2 joints that are used directly from the outlet are long radius bends and I was told to use these as it was only water (no solids) coming from the outlet. I do want to get this done properly as I know it will be a nightmare once every thing is back filled. Thanks.
  7. The concrete is around 200mm above the join, so I can't see it lifting as it covers the lip of the joint. I will do as you said though and shutter around the main body and completely encase it all. The image is exactly what I have done. I was told that there is no need for an inspection chamber on the outlet drainage pipe as it is just water that is going through. Would you suggest putting one between the pumping station and plant. Thanks.
  8. That puddle is between 50 and 100mm deep and is on top of 7m3 of the concrete pour. The water is running off the bank, so I cannot judge where the water table is. Ive excavated quite a lot on the site and it always fills with water running in from above. It states that it only needs 200mm thickness around the plant, so shuttering seems like the only way. That right hand pipe needs to be connected to the pipe with the blue hose going into it. Why do I need to be cautious when emptying it now? I assumed that as it's been concreted in and set it can now be emptied and will not move at all. I am not trying to slag off this company, just give feedback from my experience with them. I was told by a local groundwork to buy a concrete plant, but as it was £5500, I thought I would save a bit by getting a plastic/fibreglass one. With the extra concrete I've now had to buy and also the pumping station (which I didn't originally need), I'm not going to be far off that figure. I now know what I need to do and the clarification from you guys have confirmed what I was thinking. Thanks very much for your help.
  9. Yes, I was aware of the adding of water as you're pouring, but it wouldn't have made a difference. I filled it with water to the half way point (used a laser level to get it accurate), but it started lifting about 300mm down from that level. I had to use the bucket of an excavator to stop it rolling over and decided to stop with the concrete about 100mm below the water level. I then had them come back out and added another 2.5m3. The concrete driver has only seen plants that are in 1 piece and he said they are always filled. Is he right, can you fill the 1 piece plants to the top?
  10. Hi. I am looking for some advice on finishing the installation of my treatment plant. I was planning on buying a condor, but was told by the company that the mould had been damaged and it would take 6 to 12 weeks before they started manufacturing again. I was advised by the BCO to get a Marsh, which I was a bit apprehensive about, as it comes in two pieces. I went ahead with it and also had to buy a 1m extension. I had major problems with the initial pour and the plant lifted around 350mm from it's original position. Due to this, I had to install a pumping station, so that the drainage for my garage (which is around 600mm below the house) could be pumped into the plant. I did every thing that both the instructions and rep stated, but it still floated when pouring concrete. The problem is, you can only fill the tank up to the join (halfway) as it will put pressure on it. When the driver for the concrete company looked inside he said it wasn't full enough and he knew what would happen as he does about 5 a week. Exactly what he said is what happened. I've moved on from this now, but have no confidence in anybody from Marsh as they've been really unhelpful. They actually tried to sell me another treatment plant. I was told by the rep that I needed to concrete the whole plant all the way to the top. As I've had to dig down 3m, the ground had to be lowered all around as it would have just fallen in on itself. Due to this large open area around the plant, it would cost to much to just pour concrete in until it was full. The only way I can concrete the whole thing is to shutter it in stages, but this is going to cost a lot more in concrete. What I'm trying to find out is, as the plant is now anchored with about 20 tonne of concrete, do I need more. Can I not just fill around the rest with gravel? It does state that in low water table level areas you can back fill with gravel. I don't know what the water table level is here, but there is a lot of surface water as it is on the side of a mountain. Thanks for any help.
  11. Hi. I've now got the plasterer doing the render on the garage. He is using Johnstones and has finished the mesh coat and base coat. I have gone out there today and noticed a lot of cracks. When you tap it, it feels really hollow and the cracks are moving when you press it. Have any of you actually tapped it and does it feel hollow? Thanks.
  12. What did you use for the offloading? It states that the buyer has to organise this. I have a 2t excavator on site. I know it will handle the weight, but I'm not to sure if the boom is long enough. Thanks.
  13. I'm now looking at the Conder ASP08 as it has nothing extra to add on top, has extension accessories and has a 700mm invert. I spoke with them and asked what the difference was between that and the Conder Solido and was told that the Solido only comes on twice per day, so uses less electric. She did mention that the ASP requires less mantainance and needs de-sludging between 1 and 3 years. I was also told that the whole plant needs concreting, I'm assuming this is different to what they told you Dave.
  14. If I did this on my site, it would fill up, but from surface water that's running down the mountain. Does this have anything to do with the water table? That is an option, but it's whether the warranty is still valid. The person from Vortex said "unless it has a concrete base and then surrounded with concrete to the top, the warranty is invalid". I'll speak to a couple of the other companies and see what they require. Thanks.