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About Gooman

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    Bedfordshire, UK

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  1. I've been advised elsewhere that it should qualify as Class B, with the soil pipe relocation as Class G. Although Class B prohibits soil pipe work, since that work could be done independently it would then qualify under Class G. Looks like I'm going for the Lawful Development Certificate route. Good point that we could demolish and rebuild as a side extension (it would definitely qualify for that) - I'll use that as part of the justification.
  2. At long last, we're in our new home! Thoughts of a rapid start to the garage conversion have been put to one side as we've got to grips with some of the more mundane tasks that need sorting first: Draught proofing - precious little had ever been done, and I've already made a big difference in one week! Tuning the vents on the warm air heating system - downstairs is now warmer than upstairs Fixing the hot water - scaled-up ballcock valve meant the cold water storage tank emptied after two baths and introduced air locks - now all fixed Quotes for fencing around the garden as we want to improve privacy and security Leak-proofing needs to be done on all uPVC windows as the external frame sealant is cracked and in some places mortar fillets had been used rather than foam + frame sealant Broadband still not yet up and running Roof space is well insulated but need ventilation (lap vents will be simplest and easiest) Eaves cupboards are insulated only with fibreboard, all of which needs to come out and be replaced with PIR board Surprisingly, we seem to quite like the warm air heating. Depending on running costs, we might keep it and save the £6.5k-8k it will cost to put in a wet system. If we do that, we'll probably heat the new dining space (from the garage conversion) using electric heaters. Underfloor (of any type) is out as we can't afford to dig out the garage floor to put in the 300mm+ insulation we'd need. On my task list for the garage conversion are: Talk to our builder about sequencing of trades - what happens in what order? Before the wall comes down, electricity supply, meter and consumer unit need to be moved as they all terminate on the wall that's going Soil pipe also needs to be moved (underground and above ground) Roof needs to be raised Steel needs to be installed Wall needs to come down But kitchen sink is currently on the other side of that wall, and we still need a sink while works are ongoing Plumbing and waste need to be moved to wherever sink is going Draft plans for Lawful Development Certificate application Issue Party Wall Notice to neighbours (as the garages are attached and we'll be extending the height of the garage party wall to raise our garage roof) - might be a two month delay Apply for LDC Get steel beam calculations done Create detailed plans for Building Regs Submit Building Regs applicatoin
  3. My local planning department will only provide that sort of compliance via a Lawful Development Certificate, which has a £103 fee. If it's highly likely to need PP then that would be wasted money.
  4. We've bought a three-bed detached house that has a double-length single-storey flat roof garage attached to one side (see existing layout below) We want to partition the garage into two and convert the far end (rear garden end) of the garage, knocking out the utility walls and from the garage into the kitchen to create a large open plan kitchen/diner. As the floor is about 100mm lower than house level, we need to raise (and insulate) it. Which then means we need to raise the roof by around 150mm (to include insulation and service void). But we also want to add a roof lantern, which will take the peak over 150mm. We will also need to reroute the soil pipe (just visible in the picture above) as it runs through the rear part of the garage. I'm confused as to whether this project is likely to fall under Permitted Development, or whether it's likely to need Planning Permission. I've read and re-read the info on the Planning Portal and the Technical Guidance on PD many times, and I'm still none the wiser. Here's what I'd *like* to be the situation: Raising the roof and adding the roof lantern is classified under Class B (enlargement of a house consisting of an addition or alteration to its roof), since nothing will go higher than the existing roof ridge or beyond the line of the eaves on the main roof. Although Class B prohibits moving a soil pipe, Class G allows it. Here's what I'm afraid might be the situation: It's Class C, and so isn't PD as the roof lantern will take it over 150mm, and Class G can't be combined with other classes for moving the soil pipe. If the wisdom of this group is that it should probably classify as B and G then I'll be applying for a Lawful Development Certificate. But if it looks highly likely that I'd need full PP then I'd rather not waste the fee for that!
  5. I need to have a soil pipe relocated for the ground floor section of my new home. Our builder is fine with the below-ground works, but I want to check my options on above ground. The soil pipe is cast iron, and goes through the soffits and then through the tiled roof. As the soffits are asbestos cement board they're best well left alone,so I want to leave the first-floor part of the cast iron pipe in place, then convert to plastic to run at an angle to the new vertical downpipe to connect with the new ground-level drain. The only adaptors I can find are the SP140 but that's for a plastic upper to a cast iron lower. Any good sources or bright ideas?
  6. I don't think that's going to fly with my BCO. He's insisting on a 10mm gap for acoustic reasons, and the thermal rating. I think I'm back to plan A : 10mm gap 50mm timber studs infilled with 50mm PIR 12mm PIR on top 25mm battens and mineral wool (plus cables in conduit) 15mm Soundbloc 5mm plaster skim I think that's the best I'm going to get. Unless nextdoor turn their garage into a major workshop working evenings and weekends, I don't see that I'm going to have a big noise problem. Thanks everyone for all your suggestions and help!
  7. That sounds a lot simpler. Can you give more specifics on the cross section and the type of product? Do you mean 110mm of dense mineral wool? For example, 100mm Isover Acoustic Slab and two layers of Soundbloc only gives me a u-value of 0.319 (and that's not taking account of the 70mm metal stud, as I'm not sure how to add that in Changeplan). The BCO has said that although the other side is not exposed to the outside, as it's an unheated non-integral garage it's regarded as an external wall and needs to achieve 0.3.
  8. Ah, I hadn't realised that Changeplan handled the studwork and thermal bridging implications. Neat! Celotex PB4012 is 12mm. Not priced it up yet ... that may change my plans again. I'm in England, so unless someone else can comment positively on that route it's not going to be an option.
  9. Good point well made. I've skimmed BR443 and unfortunately I'm none the wiser. I assume I need to account for a timber bridging factor of 15%, but it doesn't seem to explain what that means. Is the R value for the elements that are bridged reduced by 15%, or to 15%? OK, read other stuff on this. Man, this gets complex. My head hurts. A different approach is needed I think. So now I'm thinking: 10mm gap 50mm studwork filled with 50mm PIR 12mm PIR surface mounted, joints taped 25mm batten filled with rockwool 12.5mm PB Plaster skim That seems to give a u-value of .261 on a combined thickness of around 115mm.
  10. Just occurred to me. If my stud wall is independent from the garage party wall (offset by 10mm) do I need to worry about thermal bridging at all? The footer will be fixed into the concrete floor, but I doubt that's a big deal. If bridging isn't an issue I can have a party wall build-up of: 10mm gap 75mm studwork filled with 50mm PIR and 25mm rockwool 2 x 12.5mm PB Plaster skim According to that gives me a u-value of 0.297 and a depth of only 115mm - see image
  11. The floor level needs to be raised and that will then require that the roof height is increased. My builder will be doing that work. I'll then be insulating it with PIR between and over the roof joists, extending over where the stud wall will be fixed through to the ceiling joists. My current thinking on the order of work is: Builder raises roof and levels floor (but doesn't raise it) Builder builds pillars and installs steels (leaving house side wall for the moment) Builder removes far, garden wall and builds footing for bi-fold door track (with temporary shuttering) I insulate ceiling (but not yet plasterboarded) I construct partition stud wall between front end of garage and new room area and insulate I construct frame for party wall, insulate and dry line I install floor insulation (but not yet chipboard) 1st fix - pipework for radiators cut into top of floor insulation, socket wiring within party wall rockwool gap (cable suitably derated), lighting wiring on ceiling I install chipboard floor I install battens on ceiling (for cable void) and plasterboard over Builder installs bi-fold doors Builder removes house side wall Sundry insulation and PB (window reveals, pillars, steels) and plaster skim 2nd fix Rough plan attached ...
  12. The Changeplan calculator is exactly what I was after, thanks! That suggests that 50mm PIR (as part of the cross section I proposed above) would give a u-value of 0.286. The enclosed unheated space on the other side is a non-integral garage (as is the space I'm converting) which seems to be specifically excluded by BR443. So now the tricky part is specifying the timber frame. Ideally I want PIR between the studs and a separate layer over to avoid thermal bridging. But with only 50mm PIR that seems tricky, as the timber frame will need to be rigid enough. Any thoughts?
  13. Thanks all for your good advice. The BCO has confirmed that he doesn't need any specific acoustic insulation. I'll definitely plan to add double-thickness plasterboard. If I can avoid putting electrics or plumbing in that wall I'll also include 35mm of mineral wool between the PIR and PB. Does anyone know of a u-value calculator that would help me work out the minimum PIR thickness I need, given that the mineral wool will have some thermal properties, and given the double PB? Seems to be beyond the capabilities of the Celotex and Kingspan ones. For clarity, proposed cross section of wall is now: Existing brick party wall (presumed single-skin, unheated garage on other side) 10mm gap Timber frame fixed to ceiling, floor and end walls with PIR board between studs 35mm timber frame with mineral wool between studs 2 x 12.5mm plasterboard Plaster skim
  14. As this is a conversion within a self-contained dwelling, and not a "room for residential purposes" in the meaning of Part E, doesn't that mean that Part E requirements don't come into it and that Building Regs for sound won't apply? If so then obvs I still need adequate measures for my own satisfaction, but I don't need to satisfy Part E and it's not a BC issue.
  15. I think he was meaning that the 10mm gap with the stud frame not attached to the wall would be sufficient insulation. The PIR insulation (see first post) is the thermal insulation.