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About Nick1c

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  1. Floor to ceiling glass is loved by architects & is great for drama. It is also expensive, thermally inefficient, increases overheating potential and may well reduce the useful space in the room. If you have jaw-dropping views think about how best to frame them, from a practical point of view you could probably halve that amount of glass & still have more than enough light. It seems particularly extravagant in bedrooms. Having said all this our house is pretty highly glazed......
  2. We have a fridge magnet we stick on the door of the dirty one 🙂
  3. We have 2 compact ones. There is only 2 of us in the house so one goes on every day or two, if people come round we can use both. We tend to use the same stuff most of the time so it rotates from the clean to the dirty one. I wouldn’t go back to one.
  4. Thank you @JSHarris, a mat well is something I had originally thought of & promptly forgot. I am struggling to see how to make one though. @HerbJ I searched for that phrase in the forums & generally & nothing came up.
  5. Like @Visti we are having a power floated concrete floor on the ground floor of our house. This is being done before the frame goes up, there are benefits to this but also problems.... The two major ones are shuttering related - the front & sliding doors need a rebate to allow a flush threshold and we need 2 shower trays to be fitted in the floor later. As far as I can see the options are either to shutter the voids accurately or not shutter the door thresholds & make the shower void too small & use a diamond cutter to make them later. If we go for the accurate option I am worried about getting a clean release at the edges & the door shuttering’s stabilty as it can’t be supported on the inside edge (& getting it right!). If we cut after the floor is in the inside corners will be hard to finish cleanly, but a multitool might do the job. Visti, did the shower tray method you showed work and is there any tips you can offer? If anyone else has started with a finished concrete floor before the frame went up what did you do?
  6. @jack I did have a look back, but not far enough so thanks for the links. I have decided to go through the wall for the ASHP, it allows more flexibility. I am using a hockey stick bend to bring the water pipe up so it sits easily. The electrician has asked for 100mm pipe to pull the armoured cable in. As the ffl is below the level of where the duct will start I assume I should drill some drain holes where it is sitting in the MOT to stop water getting in the house! @JSHarris would the loft area be too hot? There will be 400mm of warmcell above it so the only real issue I can imagine is if the inverters generate a lot of heat. There will be MVHR ducting up there so I assume it could be ventilated to a degree if that would help. Where do these things normally go? @joth thank you. The house is reverse level with the kitchen above the plant room so hopefully not a problem.
  7. Would it work going through the wall for the ASHP, or are we better ducting it in? Does the power duct need to be black & is 110mm soil pipe overkill? What about the Pv?
  8. The EPS is about to be laid for our slab and I would like to check what needs to be brought in through it & how. The house will be all electric with an ASHP situated directly outside the plant room. It is being built from panels pre-filled with warmcell and will be timber clad. Water - 32mm MDPE into the plant room. Does the MDPE need protection in the concrete? Electricity - ducting for armoured cable to the consumer unit. 110mm soil pipe with swept bends? Or does it need to be black? BT - ducting supplied by them. ASHP - either 2, 75mm, ducts for flow & return plus one for power & comms, or none & do everything through the wall? Pv - no idea how that comes in. We will have a smallish loft space at one end of the house. Is it sensible to bring all the cabling to the inverters into it & site them there so it is easy to check individual items for failures? WRT sealing the ducts is it just a sprayfoam job, or is it worth filling them with eps beads? How do you stop them filling with water before they are sealed, or do you just not worry about it? Any information gratefully received.
  9. WRT the position of the extraction, what is trying to be managed is in hot air, which rises. Therefore the optimal position for the extraction is directly over the pan, the next best one is to the side and the worst at hob level. I visited a Neff dealer to have a look at the in-hob method, it didn’t impress me and the dealer didn’t rave about it either - apparently the claimed efficiency is achieved by having the extractor on for 30 mins before starting cooking and with no order air movement, hardly a real world environment. In our particular case the island isn’t centrally located in the room, which is on the first floor with the ceiling following the roofline, so we don’t want a ceiling hung version. The.Novy sounds like a potentially good compromise, as does a Gaggenau lifting extractor (£££😳). @vivienz are you pleased with it? It’s a lot of money, but potentially justifiable if it does 2 jobs well.
  10. It might be worth checking the regs. I have a vague memory that a conservatory isn’t allowed to have permanent heating in it.
  11. I am no physicist or mathematician, but it strikes me that from a practical point of view (having a comfortable house with a reasonably stable temperature) there are an awful lot of variables in this which make accurate predictions very difficult, if not impossible. One of these, which hasn’t been mentioned, is the colour of the materials, which would affect the time element - a black surface would behave differently to a white one. Another is airwash. It has reminded me of a quote from an ex-president of the CBI I used to use in a previous job: ‘There is a great danger that because we tend to value things we can accurately measure we risk being precisely wrong rather than roughly right. ‘ Rather than dancing on the head of a pin are we not better served by trying to use materials with adequate specific heat capacity and thermal conductivity, adequate being determined empirically rather than modelled to the nth decimal place.
  12. We went for stainless steel & love it, but the kitchen has a pretty industrial look - the doors are brushed aluminium. The first mark on it felt pretty traumatic, but they build up to form a patina of use & it now looks great (IMHO). No staining, easy to clean & heat resistant.
  13. Why not have a thermostatically controlled fan exhausting into a largish area & fit vents into the av cupboard with dust filters fitted - should keep the kit cooler & clean for not much, the heat stays in the thermal envelope.
  14. I used fire blanks cut to size & ballbearing hinges in our last house & will use them again (possibly with concealed hinges if I can afford it).