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About Nick1c

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  1. In an effort to alleviate my frustration at the glacial progress of our build I have (prematurely) started looking at the cladding options for it - there will be some vertical and some horizontal areas. The house overlooks the sea near lands end and will get a fair beating from the weather. It will have a slate roof (with some in-roof Pv), a small amount of white render and RAL7016 windows, we plan to let the timber grey. There appears to be a wide variety of opinions about the pros & cons of various options, I have listed what I have been told/ heard below and would be grateful for any information about people's real life experiences with them. The total cost is a combination of material price, labour & longevity and, as ever, there doesn't seem to be a simple answer. WRC: reassuringly expensive, the most stable (can be t&g), easily fixed (secret or face), no pre drilling, the most durable (30+ years) lightweight, prone to bruising, initial colour very variable, weathering can be uneven depending on exposure. Siberian Larch: half the price, moves a lot so best as half-lap (although can be bought as t&g), may need pre-drilling, less durable (15+ years), initial colour pretty even, heavier (2x the weight), hard wearing, weathering as above with the added possibility of blackening in damper/ sheltered bits. Silvalbp: SiLa with a sacrificial coating to give an instant 'final finish' look. Starting with the most basic question: is all wood of the same type (from places such as Russwood, Vincent, Mill Works, Vasterns) equivalent and is choosing the grade purely a financial/ aesthetic decision ( like oak flooring for eg.) or are there performance/longevity differences? Is kiln dried a good idea? Has as anyone had any issues with fixing (splitting &/or movement), have people chosen to pre-drill for fixing, if joining pieces together have butt or mitred joints been used? Are people who have used the age accelerators happy with them? Are they all equivalent? Does using non-marine grade ss fixings in exposed locations result in staining (bad), or just a dulling/ tea staining of the visible part (potentially good)? Any real life information on longevity of untreated timber in exposed locations. Anything else I have forgotten?
  2. We will be overlooking the sea about a 15 minute walk from lands end so will get the occasional stiff breeze!!
  3. We are getting external Venetian blinds, I am worried about the wind.... Any moving glass with internal blinds sounds like a recipe for disaster & I imagine repairs would be difficult & expensive. How do you 'loose' the stacked blind when it's up? We stayed in a hotel in Spain recently that had the tape operated shutters, they were great for a hot climate, but I can't imagine how that mechanism could be compatable with airtight houses, it would need to be electrically operated.
  4. Nick1c

    Bathroom storage

    The builders put it together to our design. It's made of MDF with a rolled paint finish, Blum hinges & push catches, ours is 350mm deep. I like the clean looks & it gives a lot of storage for relatively little loss of useful space on the shower room. It has a 1400mm shower tray, basin & toilet in it, it feels about the right amount of space - plenty of room to move, but not pointlessly extravagant. Still need to sort out the mirror!
  5. Nick1c

    Bathroom storage

    A bit late now, but when we had our new bathroom put in at our current house we brought the stud work for the wall hung toilet forward a little & used the whole of the wall, excluding the cistern area, for cupboards.
  6. Someone who is quoting to do our dry-lining mentioned it too. I want Fermacell & he doesn't like using it but now is keener - no shortage & the price differential is less.
  7. Nick1c

    Virtual Reality

    Not really VR, but our architect uses a programme called BimX which allows you to fly around the building (once you get the hang of controlling it!) and get different internal & external views. I have an old iPad & it even works on that.
  8. We hope to achieve the same end result & it has been bothering me too. My assumption was that we would have to shutter the exact void we want (I will buy the shower trays so they are on site to make sure it all works) and get the siting of the drain pretty accurate. Hopefully @Nickfromwales will sort it all out! A 75mm slab seems thin, our design arrived earlier & looks to have a minimum thickness of 150mm, with areas of reinforcement for areas under high load.
  9. Gaulhofer do external blinds. I have specced them on our south facing windows, mostly for managing the solar gain, but the optional extra privacy will be good too. We are considering shutters for the 3 veluxes & will probably put the infrastructure in so that they can be added later if required.
  10. Nick1c

    before starting work

    What is the definition of 'heavy plant'? Does a small digger count? Alternatively is there any potential access from farmland. I am in Cornwall and a friendly farmer is worth his weight in gold (or something a bit less precious, but still v. valuable!).
  11. Thanks @ProDave If the limiting inverter isn't too expensive presumably I am better off 'over-panelling' for when the conditions are sub-optimal. I'll try WP tomorrow to see what they say about putting in more.
  12. I am trying to get my head around the best options for our roof. The current plan is for 17 panels & 5 veluxes. As I am concerned about overheating I was thinking of reducing the veluxes to 3 upping the Pv to 19 panels, or even more. Once I discovered the £500 per window cost of the integral flashing I became even keener! It turns out that, according to Wagner, who sell the in roof kits, that I will have to apply to the DNO (western power) for permission to feed in over 16A if I go over 17 panels. Given I will not be getting any money for the power fed in am I likely to get any worthwhile use from the extra generation? Presumably in the near future both electric cars & batteries will become more attractive. I assume I will be charged for supplying free power to the grid, but have no idea how much 🙁
  13. Nick1c

    SunAmp : Snog, Marry, Avoid?

    Back to reliably charging sunamps..... would one or two solar thermal panels do the job using the water based variety - the temperature requirement of the pcm means that ashp's (mostly) don't work at a good cop, but those sorts of temperatures could fairly easily be hit by a st unit & boosted if necessary by an electrical element. Or it it too expensive.
  14. Nick1c

    Combining in-roof Pv with roof lights

    Just had a quote for this, the Velux flashings are £500 each!!! I gave them a call to talk about it - funnily enough they don't sell many.... Transport (from France) was over £700 too.
  15. Nick1c

    Small Megabad order

    On the up side Reuter still are accepting uk orders.......