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About Nick1c

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  1. Me neither, but apparently it does what it says on the tin!
  2. A mate used Owatrol paint conditioner & raved about the finish he got.
  3. Massive (f to c) is impressive.....but there isn’t much increase in light, overheating is increased, you loose thermal efficiency, useable room space & in our case it complicates weathering the cill. Does your view full the whole space? If not framing it with a smaller window might give as good or better an effect without the downsides & for less money. We have some large opening lights, the walls can create a fulcrum to overload the frame so we will need restrictors. Get the installation logistics sorted out & reliable fitters - we were delayed by 5 months over this.
  4. Thank you. It sounds (as I thought) that they should be treated - the next question is take them off & replace with tanalised or paint with preservatives. I suspect the former 😞. It’s not just 25mm batten as the rainwater down pipes are hidden behind it.
  5. The frame of our house is being clad in a mixture of cedar & render, with some pressed aluminium details. The carpenters on site have been great, but over the last couple of days have been battening out one of the elevations with untreated softwood. We are on an exposed coastal site & they have been using stainless fixings. I have asked if this is a good idea & been told it will be fine as the cladding will (should?) keep it dry, it does however make me nervous. There are three options - leave as is, leave it up but paint with preservative or tear it down & replace with treated timber. Which of these is the sensible route?
  6. Just on the point of getting this done. I managed to miss the joint filler - I thought it was board, FST, paint. It appears that it’s board (with an expansion gap at 10m), joint fill (50m2 per 5kg bag unless joints left open when it goes to 25m2), FST. My plan is to use a dry lining contractor to get the boards up, I am debating if the rest of the job should be DIY, done by the liners or a combination of me & the decorators. Any advice?
  7. @Mr Punter we are going for flowscreed. Thank you for the idea.
  8. Looks great. I share your stress levels & lack of joy. Hopefully it’s all worth it in the end...
  9. @Mr PunterIt’s sounding promising.... how long does it take to dry? IIRC concrete is 1mm/day! Would the best thing be to lay a layer of thin ply over it before the boards (they are 85mm wide), or put the boards directly on the screed? Is it heinously expensive? We have 85-90m2 to do.
  10. @Mr Punter Thanks for the idea. Would that work over the CLT? I am keen to keep the weight to a minimum as this wasn’t designed in from the start. What is the minimum thickness it could be poured? It would need to be min 25, max 55mm.
  11. I have various things I am trying to achieve. The ffl needs to be 58-70mm above the CLT ‘slab’ to work with thresholds. We need a working floor to board out & decorate off. There will be UFH below in sand to give thermal inertia & take up space (we plan to use it for cooling as well). The engineered boards are also available in 22mm. As far as I can see the options Are 25mm batten with 12mm sub floor & 22mm boards or 18mm sub floor & 15mm boards. The 18mm sub floor gives a better working floor. I don’t think it is a building regs issue as it is equivalent to laying a floor on a concrete slab.
  12. We are getting 15mm thick narrow engineered boards for our first floor. The structural floor is 160mm CLT, which is rock solid, it will have 25mm batten at 400 centres with an 18mm sub floor over them (the battens will have UFH pipe & kiln dries sand between them), the engineered boards will be glued to this. Is OSB adequate for this, or do we really need ply for a squeak free result?
  13. I got through this afternoon - maybe they open after 8...
  14. Resistant appear to be closed, does anyone know who stocks their 9mm fireboard? Thanks