Nick1c

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About Nick1c

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  1. We initially thought about blackened cladding (burnt), but the planners were against it, probably a result as it is ££££. When we were looking at alternatives Vastern sent some brimstone ash, new it looks beautiful, but it isn’t the same as black painted & there has been a post somewhere about uneven aging of modified wood. In the end we went for WRC & will let it silver, but it might be worth getting a sample sent. If it is to be painted as you like the look of paint I would go for larch. We painted our shed black a couple of years ago using Osmo country colours & it has survived some pretty extreme conditions (w. Cornwall) without fading or peeling so far.
  2. No idea if it would meet your planning restrictions, but have you considered an I-beam frame with blown cellulose? IIRC the U-values for cellulose & wood fibre are similar, the advantage of this method is a reduced timber fraction in the frame & ease of achieving the claimed performance of the insulation. When I looked it was also cheaper...
  3. Thanks. 10/15mm everywhere it is. Uninsulated makes life easier & cheaper 😄 I am tempted to skip the HRC to the far bathrooms as I/we don’t mind washing hands in cold water, which would be the main benefit. Still not sure of the benefit of a cold manifold, why not use a ‘traditional’ circuit & isolation valves? Any thoughts on an accumulator vs upgrading the supply? I don’t understand why the maintenance costs would be different with a different ASHP, I was under the impression that they are by in large effectively one or more ‘black boxes’ which need replacing if anything goes wrong & maintenance comes down to keeping the filters clean.
  4. @joth yes, one of the higher temp ones, I believe they will be available by May when I hope to be needing one. My installer hasn’t mentioned any problems getting hold of a Sunamp, but again it won’t be needed till May.
  5. @PeterW in our last house I found some 100 year old reclaimed Burmese teak strip flooring & used that over UFH. I couldn’t believe how much it shrinked, 3-4mm gaps between each strip, it was only 3” & 4” wide! With hindsight I would have laid it loose, cranked up the heat for a few weeks & then had it permanently fixed.
  6. Our first fix plumbing will start in a week or so and there are a few things I can think of (& lots I have yet to think of!) that I haven’t got my head around. We plan to use a Sunamp, heated via a Vaillant ASHP & Pv which will supply a kitchen and 3 bathrooms ( each will have shower, basin, toilet, one will have a bath as well). The kitchen and bathroom with the bath will be within 5m of the Sunamp, the other 2 bathrooms will be 17-20m away. One of these is our en-suite. The supply into the hose is 28mm from the meter, but only 15mm from the mains to the meter (a 5m or so run). The water company tested the pressure & flow, they got 40l/min at 3 bar. Manifolds - I can see the benefits for the hot supply, other than ease of isolation is there any benefit on the cold side? Pipe diameter - 10mm to hand basins/toilets, 15mm (?22) to kitchen tap/showers/bath? Pipe insulation - yes or no? Presumably a definite yes if using a HRC. HRC - how does this work on a thermal store/ Sunamp? These seem to effectively work as instantaneous heaters. Accumulator - are we likely to need one, if so are they a good idea or is it better/more cost effective to pay to have 28mm put in from the main? I have no doubt more questions will come......
  7. Thank you. The naked offering isn’t really what I am after as a surface finish and is further towards the ‘reassuring’ end of the market than we are looking.
  8. I discussed this with BC this week. Our house is at the top of the foul run, next door has an SVP 20m away. He would accept an AAV in the loft, but would prefer an SVP as belt & braces. He wasn't too fussy about the route but wanted the pipe to be as big as possible (up to 110mm) where possible. The plumber suggested a vented slate which will have to penetrate a 400mm warmcell roof.
  9. I am trying to find oak engineered boards 100mm wide or less with no bevel, ideally band sawn finish. So far I am struggling - wider boards with a bevel seem to be the popular option. Does anyone know of where I might find this for sale? It's to go over UFH, hence the engineered requirement. I used solid reclaimed teak in our last house thinking it would be stable & couldn't believe the shrinkage!
  10. @HerbJ, you have close to double the m2/pp that we will!! I noticed that your dressing room has no supply/extract, ours is specced the same way, I would have imagined circulation around shoes & clothes would be a good thing... As it is next to the ensuite we could have a 'through vent', would this make sense to you?
  11. Not much help with the specific numbers, but IIRC a number of people have mentioned that the building regs requirement is too high in real life, so it may be best to size on boost rather than the 'optimum' setting. We used Enhabit who didn't seem overly expensive, they mentioned that if the house volume is high for the number of occupants there is an increased risk of the RH being too low. We went for an enthalpy exchanger for this reason.
  12. We will be having a pantry next to our kitchen area in an open plan living room. It will house 2 compact dishwashers, a small sink, freezer and additional storage. Hopefully it will mean that the main room is quieter and less cluttered.
  13. I will need to do this as well & have come across this: https://www.fireproofspray.co.uk/flametect-cwd--clear-flame-retardant-for-wood-68-p.asp Does anyone have any experience of using it? I am particularly interested in its effects on the aging of WRC. They claim that it should need 1-2 coats and is invisible. I have emailed building control to ensure that it meets their requirements.
  14. I thought that one of the benefits of fermacell was that sheets were butt jointed with their compound (?joint stick) and noggins weren’t needed.