jamieled

Members
  • Content Count

    173
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

jamieled last won the day on January 28

jamieled had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

59 Good

About jamieled

  • Rank
    Regular Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. They have two different functions. One makes sure you meet building regs, the other designs you a structurally sound house. If you go against the SE advice, you are carrying quite bit of risk if anything goes wrong (even if it is unrelated to the topic of discussion).
  2. I meant to add, this will all depend on the competence and experience of the developer-there are easily findable stories of those who don't bother and end up in trouble. You can insure against this risk on big developments, I can't imagine the premiums being cheap though!
  3. My experience of larger (non-residential) development is that there is often quite a bit of investigation work prior to construction, some of it intrusive, some of it not. It is expensive by the standards of self builders but still proportionate when you consider the overall costs.
  4. There's been a concerted effort to try and move away from return period expressions of event probability as it tends to cause the EA some problems. However, exceedance probability type statements aren't often easily understood either so there's no easy answer and the return period is still commonly expressed. FWIW, I think fz3 is 1% or greater chance of flooding, and therefore it could be a lot more frequent than that. I suppose it might also depend on the nature of the risk - culvert and bridges backing up and causing flooding often have more to do with debris accumulation than the probability of the storm event itself. To the OP - the above is a bit academic, but my main point would be not to take any assessment of risk at face value! FZ 3 is split into 2 categories by the local authorities, 3a and 3b and this is not (I think) shown on EA maps, but does determine acceptability.
  5. Forget the 'it's never flooded in living memory'. Flood risk is usually defined using probabilistic estimates of flood rarity which are well beyond living memory. For example flood zone 3 is a 1% exceedance likelihood, or, to put it another way, an event that is likely to occur on average, once in every 100 years. There are a couple of things you could consider. The flood maps vary in quality depending on where you are, as the underlying models also vary depending on whether there has been a need to recently update them. This is difficult to determine from the online mapping, but it might be that you're not really in flood zone 3! Only a review of the models would tell. Secondly, as others have mentioned, there are potentially creative ways around it. If you are only just within the flood zone, it may be that levels and velocities are low, so you can get away with a minimal amount of engineering. Unless you have detailed knowledge, it may prove tricky getting permission, but worth seeing how far you can get and understanding as much as you can before engaging anyone else.
  6. You can buy these: https://shopping.rspb.org.uk/bird-silhouettes-window-stickers.html?utm_source=https://ww2.rspb.org.uk/birds-and-wildlife/read-and-learn/bird-watching/bird-behaviour/stop-birds-flying-into-windows&utm_medium=page-promo
  7. At this scale, your gut might be the best bet. There are a variety of methods for runoff calculation, but at the small scale blockage risk usually results in up sizing culverts, drains etc by quite a bit. The specific local conditions in your field will have a big impact on runoff coefficients. Is there anything you can do to alter the direction of runoff if your chosen drain size is exceeded on occasion?
  8. I start our roofing tommorow. We have mesh to install as per @Visti describes, although I have no eaves foam fillers, just a closure piece to allow a ventilation gap.
  9. I am using eternit profile 6 sheeting. Rather than foam strips, I have eternit eaves closure pieces which will prevent wind driven rain, but allow ventilation as they overhang the sarking slightly (not that easy to explain).
  10. Has anyone else got examples of ventilated firestop detail for a timber clad house? Either proprietary intumescent barrier or something else? Could use some inspiration.
  11. Water companies can work out quite cheap for testing due to the volume of samples they work with. I'm not sure if all companies accept samples commercially, but Scottish Water were around £50 a sample for what I needed to test. As noted above, they gave me the prepared bottles and labels.
  12. I am in the process of sorting something similar for our cladding, albeit for slightly different reason. As we have 1.5 storeys, we need a firestop at half height, and I have selected to insert a profiled cill/flashing on top of the firestop, to drain anything behind the 1st floor cladding. I'm getting some manufactured by planwell. They will stick out in front of the cladding by about 35mm. This is sort of arbitrary, because the cills/flashings are manufactured in fixed dimensions but I figured it should be enough.
  13. @Ed Davies,That's right, maybe 15-20 miles from Beauly.
  14. Useful point, thanks, I may have an old length of mdpe I can use for this.