jamieled

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jamieled last won the day on January 28 2019

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  1. It might not matter much for that little bit in the eaves, but in anywhere more prominent would the eye not be drawn to the nail line looking a bit wonky?
  2. Irrespective of whether the BCO requires them they're worth considering. It may be that your structure is designed a bit differently to ours and hence there's no need for them. The only reason for asking is that if you do need them, then solid timber is a useful way of doing the corners. In that case run a vertical batten down each corner to form the firestop. We used intumescent barriers elsewhere. I'd imagine they'll be fine, if I'd had a nail gun I'd probably have chosen to use it. Our roofing battens use 90mm gun nails as I got the joiners to do them. Off the top of my head: -Bevel the bottom of the cladding. Bevel joins if you have any. -Carefully plan the layout before you get going - you don't want to end up with strange widths of cladding either side of windows or doors. Might be harder with shiplap t+g (we had board on board so a bit easier to adjust the gap). -Think through the window reveal finishes and how the cladding meets them. -We found it easier to do any bottom cladding in one go, ping a chalk line then cut them all at once to get a good edge.
  3. 1. That's what we did unless they were extremely close together for some reason. 2. That's what did. How are you dealing with firestopping (do you need to?). 3. We left them square. Under a big overhang and nobody will see them. 4. We had a diagonal batten at the same angle as the roof just below the gable, otherwise the rest were square edged. 5. It depends on the windows and also firestopping requirements. We ripped a lot of timber to size in order to get it neat. 6. We didn't have a nail gun, horizontal battens had 100mm screws through vertical battens into studs. 7. No! Wait until you get to the cladding! The TRADA guide to timber cladding may be useful for you, can buy as an ebook.
  4. There is a huge difference between running a stove in a lab and then running one in a house. Maybe 50% up the chimney us a little harsh, but I doubt many will ever reach maximum efficiency for more than a few minutes at a time. I'm happy to be corrected, but I believe quoted stove efficiencies refer to the combustion efficiency, not heat transfer efficiency. Clean (relatively speaking) burning stoves need a hot flue so 50% might not be far off the mark.
  5. Cyclists are not a major cause of pollution. Cars are. I'd bet that the majority of vehicle emissions are in no way impacted by cyclists. Keen for the bike lanes though. There's a fundamental difference between weather and climate so no, they should not be called the same thing.
  6. Not really but I'd imagine it's a fair amount. I did wonder about trying to tot it all up but I'm not sure how accurate I could be. I'd always wanted to build a house so part of the attraction was being able to get stuck in, saving money a good secondary benefit. That said, I took a year off work to be able to do it, but I reckon it was probably worth it.
  7. We did roofing, guttering, velux install, cladding, boarding for insulation, foul and sw drainage, private water supply installation, landscaping and most of the internal fit out. Most of the labour costs were in groundworks, founds and framing. Costs include utilities ~£20k.
  8. We're just finishing up. I don't expect to spend any more money on materials. It's likely to cost ~£1300/sqm. That's for 137m2, all costs excl. Land. I think it's a reasonable cost given figures quoted by others on here. We did quite a lot of work ourselves, but also spent quite a bit on labour. If I remove the majority of the labour cost (excl. UVC installation and electrical work as I realistically couldn't do them myself) then it works out about £1050/m2. Our utilities costs were high as we're in the sticks. Everyone will give you different values, so make sure you understand the assumptions behind £/m2 values given.
  9. Chucked a handful of cellulose into a fire out of curiosity. Given it's made from shredded paper I'd expected it to go up, but it just sort of smouldered. I think it's treated with borax or something like it.
  10. In a word, no. There are two separate sets of certifiers in Scotland, certifiers of design (for example an SER engineer), and approved certifiers of construction (the people who do the work). There is a website somewhere where you can find a list of all the approved certifiers of design/construction. However, in my experience there isn't a lot of additional work when using a tradesperson who isn't on that list. You end up paying a bit more to building control, they inspect a bit more at completion but it's not a lot of hassle or extra money and gives you a bit more freedom in finding folk to work with you.
  11. If you're connecting under G98 doesn't the inverter have to be fully type tested - i.e. using an inverter that doesn't limit export is not allowed under EREC G98 guidelines? The point of which is so that the DNO doesn't need to witness it? Under G99 witnessing is required.
  12. Can't comment directly on your options as I don't know much about electric boilers, but your proposed setup is pretty similar to ours. We are not at passive standard, our main heating is via a woodburner in an open area. We have a couple of electric radiators downstairs but we haven't used them apart from checking they work. We have wired upstairs for electric radiators but based on experience so far I don't think we'll install anything. I did think about putting UFH loops in just in case but didn't bother in the end. When it gets colder we have the woodburner on most evenings for a couple of hours and that sorts us for a day. We're based in the highlands and the house gets quite a bit of solar gain due to its orientation. hot water from a direct electric UVC coupled to PV via an immersion diverter (which we still get some benefit from even at this time of year).
  13. Haha. Oops. Just as well you clarified, passed me by.
  14. Insofar as I get the baby bath out the cupboard, fill it up, clean the babies then empty the bath and put it back in the cupboard then yes. Does anyone actually 'install' a baby bath?
  15. I think BC are generally overstretched. There's also not a lot of consistency within local authorities. I'm in the same LA as @ProDave and while I applied for a temporary habitation certificate the BCO told me the only difference between that and completion is some of the outstanding paperwork (I'm not convinced about this but didn't have a strong counter-argument). My temporary habitation certificate is still pending after several months - it was never rejected or accepted. I had a BCO inspect our house after my temporary habitation application and he subsequently gave me a list of the things I needed to sort for completion. I applied for completion over a month ago and haven't heard anything. Anyway, the point is that the delays are pretty typical. Using the ebuilding standards website will help the LA to accept or reject it one way or the other. Did you have any previous inspections - at foundation, structure or insulation stages? Did they say anything at that point?