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jamieled last won the day on January 28 2019

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  1. There would be ways of identifying a problem with the borehole before the tank runs out but if it's as reliable as you think then I can understand your perspective. I have seem a number of boreholes dry up during dry summers recently so make sure you're assesment of reliability is robust. The EHOs requirement sounds strange though. UV filters and backwashing filters need power so even if you store untreated water, how would it be treated in a power cut? Secondly, a tank would only work in a power cut if there was enough head in it to gravity feed the house (as you wouldn't be able to pump) so in the region of 10m above the highest house outlet to get ~1 bar. Is that feasible? We have a big tank, but our water comes from a burn so it's needed for balancing.
  2. Much building work at the smaller end of the market goes ahead and is completed to a high standard without a contract with nobody trying to screw anyone. Would agree that a fair contract shouldn't spook anyone. Many trades will not necessarily be able to get access to the legal insight required to understand if a contract is fair, hence the reticence to go anywhere near them for the small jobs. The legalese can be tricky to understand and many off the internet type contracts often have legally dubious clauses in them.
  3. HIS? Keyline delivered our mesh but I can't remember the cost. Most of merchants seem to make trips out and about the sticks, it might depend on whether they've got any other deliveries in the area. So even if the big retailers such as Jewsons/TP etc give ridiculous costs or say no online I'd be phoning them up.
  4. Some of the newer stoves can fit on a tiled floor in practical terms, but I had thought there was some sort of building reg about delineating the area around the stove if there was no obvious hearth. May be worth checking this. A stove can be installed quite close to the end of the build, but if you do this then you need to be careful about how well both the flue and direct air feed penetrations are sealed. Related to this, you'd probably not want to finidh all your decorating before getting the stove in as there are bound to be scuffs etc, particularly when it's so close to the walls. Air feed out the back is fine as long as the stove is set up for it. Builders will need to ensure that if you're going for it as per the photo, that the distance to the nearest walls meets with the regs and that there's a reasonable prospect of the stove installer getting the flue and direct air feed in without causing too much damage. BTW, even if the stove in the photo is a convection stove (which I assume it is given the clearance to walls), to me it doesn't look like the brightest idea in the world to situate it like that. You'd be heating up the walls above pretty well and room air circulation might not be great if the stove is recessed. On the other hand if it's just to look at it probably doesn't matter.
  5. It's probably not a bad place to start to get some understanding, it helped me. Be aware its costs are probably a bit out. If you can, visit some self builders. You'll start to get a feel for what it's really like- pitfalls, sequencing, additional costs etc. At the beginning you have a number of directions you can go in - location, size of house, build type, extravagance etc. But once you've made those decisions you're committed to a particular route, so the early decisions are key. Hence the benefit of getting a broad a view as possible on your options.
  6. No you shouldn't submit a reply to your neighbours comment. As has been stated multiple times, a single neighbour objection is unlikely to result in your application being rejected. It would not help your case if your guests left comments either. The planning department has zero interest in how good your B and B is. You really need to get a better handle on the planning process and what the main considerations are in accepting/rejecting a planning app - this won't be rejected on the back of one comment, so if it was refused, and you chose to appeal, removing the neighbours comment probably isn't the issue you need to deal with. You would need to refute the material planning considerations that resulted in the application getting rejected in the first place.
  7. I understand why your neighbours comments might bother you, but planners are used to these sorts of comments. Don't sweat it, there's not a lot you can do and as mentioned elsewhere the comment is immaterial in planning terms. If your planning app is refused, its not going to be because of one neighbour objection.
  8. I'm not sure what you mean when you say 'combat this'. Your neighbour is entitled to their opinion and to submit an objection. You could try and refute their comments but getting involved in a verbal battle on the planning portal is probably a bad idea. A single neighbour objection does not mean you won't get your retrospective planning permission though.
  9. Yep, got the electrician to double check in case I was being dippy. The bottom thermostat is supposed to be some sort of 'smart' thermostat - changing the temp of the water as your usage changes but frankly I've never been able to notice it do anything other than a standard immersion with a fixed temperature.
  10. Embarrassing update no.1. The top immersion was not wired into the boost switch on the wall (the live cable end was terminated into a block inside the switch). I think this is from a miscommunication when we had a bit of damage from a line fault a few months ago-plumber replaced the damaged immersion element but the switch was never reconnected). Bottom thermostat is broken, but at least we have some working hot water now.
  11. Many thanks for the ideas, one of the local boys is going to pop round over the weekend.
  12. Yes, that is the reset button for the top thermostat. It doesn't do anything - the manual suggests there should be an audible click when resetting if the safety cutout has been activated.
  13. Thanks @ProDave. For the top immersion I can test on both the element and the incoming L and N attached to the thermostat. 18 ohms on the element and I get this on the incoming L and N: Bottom element just 18. Can't access the L and N as the ends are terminated inside the grey thermostat box.
  14. Electrician it is then. Is this likely to be related? Press the test button on the CU and it shows a yellow window which I believe is an earth fault?
  15. My multimeter capabilities are pretty limited and usually used for fixing vehicles. Otherwise my safe working practices in the house usually start and end with switching off the thing I'm working on at the CU, though I realise that has limits in what you can check.
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