jamieled

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jamieled last won the day on January 28 2019

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About jamieled

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  1. We used a bit of plastic sheeting to protect our frame last autumn. It was a pain in the arse as it constantly blew out. It was quite windy here. If you go down this route I would suggest not just relying on staples, they will rip through the plastic no bother. Perhaps use the polytunnel approach of trapping the plastic over and under a batten and nail through this?
  2. Despite extensive reading on here and elsewhere, I'm a bit unclear as to whether it is sensible to tile my bathroom floor directly onto the chipboard. Floor is 22mm caberdek glued and screwed to wide posi joists. No noticeable movement in the floor. If this is a bad idea, what do I need to do? Would like to avoid adding ply if possible.
  3. I will add to the mix, though we have vertical board on board cladding. I ripped a bit of larch approximately 50mm wide and fixed that over the top of the aluminium window frame. The top edge of this ripped bit of larch is bevelled at about 15 degrees to allow any water behind the cladding out. The cladding then comes down so the bottom bevelled edge of the vertical cladding is in line with the bevelled edge of the piece ripped for the reveal. There is about a 4mm gap then for water to drain out the cavity, with any water running down the vertical larch dropping off on to the aluminium cill of the window.
  4. Highland pump centre. That's the retail part of the business, they are also known as commissioning solutions Scotland.
  5. Thanks @PeterW, very helpful. @SuperJohnG, we are on a surface water supply from a burn. The big cylinder is the iron treatment filter, as we have a high iron level. Not sure we ended up with the best bit of kit here as it doubles as a water softener which we don't need. I think I can get away with out using this part of it. I went through a local company in Inverness. They double checked what I thought I needed. Happy to pass on costs for comparison if it helps? Agree on all you say about the plumbing. I too work in hydraulics (more on the design side), so happy with bigger stuff generally! As this is so important to us, I don't really want to outsource the fitting. If it ever breaks or needs work, I need to be able to repair relatively quickly so being able to put it together and take it apart is more important to me than aesthetics (so long as I can get it functional).
  6. Evening all. My next job is to plumb in my water treatment system. Some of it is shown here: There is also a UV filter to go in. I do not have a lot in the way of plumbing experience so need a bit of direction. I would like to use copper for the majority as I find mdpe fittings bulky. It seems I can use soldered, compression or push fittings for copper. Any advice on the best way to go? I will be using 22mm copper and will need to be able to go from copper to plastic on occasion as a couple of the filters have plastic female threads. Secondly a more specific query, how do I include a couple of pressure gauges like these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Low-Pressure-Gauge-air-oil-or-water-50mm-0-30-PSI-0-2-Bar-1-4-BSPT-Bottom/142459828791?hash=item212b447a37:g:cpsAAOSwcUBYH2qi I can't quite understand how the gauge goes into any fitting. Do I need a t piece with a 1/4 inch fitting?
  7. I'm another one not far from you. I can recommend a good groundworks contractor if you need one. I know they work down that way.
  8. Unless they've changed recently, I don't think AFT do groundworks themselves. They only do the foundation. If they do groundworks, they'll probably subcontract it.
  9. We're a bit further north than you, getting to the end of our build. We used I beams, stick built on site. To give you a rough idea of price differences on raw materials: A 12m length of 300mm JJI A I beam was about £70 for us as I recall. Today I picked up a 4.8m length of 6 x 2 for £2.10/m, so around £25 for 12m. These are not the most competitive prices. We wanted a thicker wall with blown insulation, and the I beam allows us to do that relatively easily. There is not much difference in the framing/frame design.
  10. Something similar, but quite upmarket, in the summer isles: https://www.thebrochs.co.uk
  11. I was pretty surprised how refined our finished walls were given the relatively rough nature of the boarding (no worse than many others I've seen). Good tapers and plasterers can deal with some pretty rough edges I reckon.
  12. I've been getting stuff from pipestock no bother. Quick delivery.
  13. You're still working on a building site and subject to any noise/working hour restrictions. Whether you are a paid contractor is irrelevant.
  14. The rubber ring was in place on my 600mm risers. Didn't know you needed to buy seals separately for some.
  15. Yep, agree with the above. They will be looking to cover legal costs. If it is an easement (as opposed to wayleave), then it needs to go on the title deeds of the land I think.